Yes, but you can’t go from moonlight (long press) to the programmed/ramped 800 lumen mode (short press), as far as I know. Turbo is double press.
From moonlight, if you start ramping that will become your new programmed mode. If you turn off from moonlight and then turn on, your previously programmed (800 lumen) mode will be there.
Yes.
Long press - Moonlight - single press - Off - single press - set ramp - double press - Turbo - single press - set ramp - single press - Off
From off the usual double press is instant Turbo
I’m absolutely loving the IF25
Nice, I think I’ll buy one.
Has anyone seen this new driver?
I was going to take pics for you but….it’s glued 
the bezel isn’t though so that’s one less obstacle
Am I going to have to be the first to take it apart again? Ah man.
It looks like the switch cover unscrews. Can the switch be removed? If so, you can look inside to find a flat section of pcb to press against.
I would if I was keeping it but it’s going to be sold.
There was no glue in my flashlight. But the wires are too short. To remove the driver, you need to unsolder them from the MCPCB.
FET QN3109
Thanks, it’s got a big FET so it must use PWM, but I’m not seeing current regulators or a resistor bank for a second channel. I’ll see if I can make sense of the design later. The red glue looks to be hiding components.
I found the second channel (Moonlight FET) on the MCU board.
Hey, just discovered that Kaidomain’s 32.5MM (D) X 18MMM (H) 5-DEGREE PMMA OPTICAL LENS FOR CREE XHP70 is a drop-in replacement for the original aluminum OP reflector in Sofirn’s SP33!!!
Also applied a layer of d-c-fix self-adhesive Milky (aka Sand) film under the original glass cover lens to further smooth the beam, works like a charm.
Awesome, thanks for reporting! Do you have beamshots with the lens, without/with the d-c-fix film?
Sorry but BLF keeps disappearing my pics.
Very nice! Any noticeable loss in output?
As for posting pictures on BLF, it trips up most folks initially, so there’s a tutorial: How to Post Images on BLF
Well I have no technical means of measuring output but these lenses are not significantly lossy. Of course diffusing a beam sacrifices throw, but that’s where my Epileptical ™ reflector shields come in. Just got new supplies so will be refabbing them with extended tubing; that should circumscribe cutoff and proportionally boost range. Will be updating my DIY thread on mtbr so stay tuned. 
Andychrist, so the lens is the same height as the SP33 reflector? I long suspected it was shorter.
Did you have any issues getting the 7mmx7mm square hole to center up on the 5mmx5mm led?
Well Jason there’s a white plastic gasket that fits around the emitter and the base of the lens’ shell meshes with that, just have to line them up. Easy-peasy.
Didn’t compare heights side by side; though initially I too was under the impression that the lens was shorter, once installed it came up to the correct height inside the lamp head so that when screwed back on over the silicone O-ring the bezel held it in place perfectly. Can’t tell you how surprised I was!
Does it come in other angles , like 45 or 60?
Well pennzy there’s also a 25 degree one on Kaidomain’s website but that’s all I could find there.
32.5MM (D) X 18MMM (H) 25-DEGREE PMMA OPTICAL LENS FOR CREE XHP70
Of course if you apply d-c-fix to the underside of the original cover glass it will spread out the beam considerably further.
https://forums.mtbr.com/lights-diy-do-yourself/diy-reflector-shields-magicshine-clones-flashlights-1125295.html#post14529051
DYAC!
That TIR is sized to fit the xhp70. The xhp50 is smaller. I was assuming it might be tricky to get it centered properly.
Yeah Jason I’d have thought the same. But the white plastic gasket has two levels of raised circles so guess it’s made to adapt to either size XHP. And the square base of emitter itself is flat and flush with the star, only its round dome is significantly three dimensional. White plastic shell encapsulating the lens comes to the same height of the reflector minus the latter’s inner ridge that helps seat the silicone O-ring, which simply sits on top of the lens’ shell without that ridge, it all fits perfectly inside the lamp head itself so no worries. (Interestingly the aluminum reflector seems to have the same size hole at its base as the naked lens.) Anyway once dropped in and rotated under pressure until it clicks into place that lens will stay centered. Still needs the cover glass though to hold it down, but that’s just one more opportunity to apply some d-c-fix. 