Alpg88 2019 Old-Lumens Challenge Entry, machine category

Welcome to the party :smiley:

Good idea, yes. Good luck with your build! :crown:

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May I ask if you have tried AutoDesk Fusion 360 cadcam software ? It is FREE for Hobbyist to use. :smiley:
I’m just drawing with it now and its easy to learn.
Nice project. :+1:

finished designing parts, so far printed 3 parts, in black abs, side covers, and the head spacer,

the head spacer will be pressing on the tir, thus pressing on the mcpcb, i wont need to use any screws or glue, just thermal paste. there will be an o ring around each led, so glass will press against it, and create a seal between outer window and the spacer.\

the core will be printed in 2 parts, i wanted to use orange abs, got a roll of ic3d stuff, but it does not want to stick to the bed, so far, will try some other stuff, if not will have to replace the abs, black hatchbox printer beautifully, stock to the bed with glue stick every single time,. i want to do 2 tones, black side covers and head, orange core and switch cover.
charging will be done usb port, one side cover will have a sliding door, that will open up a port.

Great progress alpg88 :+1: I hope that aluminium angle will be enough heatsinking

a thermal shut off at 70c will make sure things will not get too hot, i will attach it on the other side of the aluminum angle, once it trips it will shut off the driver, white light will still be available from other triple, that will drive the leds at 700ma, so no overheating at that current.

Cool :sunglasses: (pun…??) Sorry if I missed reading that from somewhere earlier in the build. Sounds like you’ve thought it out and covered it :+1:

I’m following this as I have been thinking of 3D printing for some time. Somehow I didn’t see this topic/project until just now.

:+1:

the more i print the more i like hand tools.

Love your skills with the printing. :+1:

had a bit of a set back, orange abs from ic3d isn’t sticking to the bed no matter what i do, so i’m using red abs instead from hatchbox, prints, and sticks beautifully. so i printed another part, side cover that will house switches. the core is on the printer, it will be a 3 day job, i decided to print 1 piece core.

Looks like some great progress!

Good work :slight_smile:
I have been planning to get an Ender3 as a backup printer, but it would need an enclosure like yours. What is the width and depth needed to fit that thing with the moving bed?

20x26x28 is what it takes to fit cr10. for ender 3, a smaller one would do
i build mine myself, my printer didn’t come with one.

Would 20”wide x 19”deep be enough?

core finished, now i’ll have to remove lots of supports.

there was supposed to be a sign, on the back of it, it showed pretty clear in slicer, but it came out much worst, i can barely read some words others can’t read at all,

very good question, but i can’t say for sure unless i measure, and allow some room for loading filament, and moving parts.

Looks like the text on the back got lost in the layer changes. With that slant, it looks like a challenging area for text. Adaptive layer height might have helped a little bit (that is, if you didn’t use it), but it probably wouldn’t have been enough to address that. Overall, looks great. Can’t wait to see it with the supports removed.

yep, looks like exactly what happened, layers change. next time i’ll either use larger letters, or do sign on flat parts, actually sides got their pattern printed nicely, and it was on vertical surface.

as i remove supports, some parts of light are not looking that great, i’ll see what i can do about that, but i want to avoid acetone fume smoothing, in theory it sounds great and all, but in reality it makes parts smooth as mirror, and they are too prone to scratching, making scratches too visible, it is good for items that you do not use, or not doing anything with them. just have then on a shelf for display, but the good news is most of those places with bad finish, are internal. will take a pic when i remove all the supports.

yea for a slightly tilted top like that layers will be very visible. I imagine your slicer could be set to change to thin layers near the top. But it’s just a tough place to put text.