Review: POPPAS W-878 Flood-To-Throw From Manafont

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benckie
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Review: POPPAS W-878 Flood-To-Throw From Manafont

Summary:

Battery:

1 x 26650 or 3 x AAA or 1 x 18650 with battery holders included
Switch: Tailcap
Modes: 5, Hi - Med - Low - Strobe - SOS
LED/Output: XM-L T6  / 1200 Lumen (CW)
Lens/Reflector: Aspheric lense
Tailstand:

Yes

Price paid: US$ 16.67
Date Ordered: 26 March, 2012
From: POPPAS W-878

 

 

 

DIMENSIONS:

  • Head Diameter Widest Point: 40.54 mm
  • Total Length Zoomed out: 14.44 cm
  • Total Length Zoomed in: 16.1 cm
  • Battery tube & switch width: 31.77 mm
  • Driver diameter: 17 mm

 

Pros: ★★★★★

  • Flood-To-Throw
  • Easy acess to driver and led
  • Fits well in your hands
  • Cheap
  • O-rings
  • CW tint
  • 17 mm driver, so you could easily swap it for a 3 mode driver like a NANJG 105C
  • Good first zoomy
  • Good flood
  • Throws well
  • lanyard
  • Tail stands
  • Runs on multible battery types 1 x 26650 or 1 x 18650 with the included spacer or 3 x AAA with the included battery holder

 

Cons: ★★★

  • Cheap
  • Very under-driven (could be my DDM or could easily put in a 3 or 3.5 amp driver like a NANJG 105C)
  • Lense is glued
  • Led not centered (I was able to fix that see pictures) 
  • No holster 
  • No spare O-rings
  • driver spring not 100% centered
  • Battery spacer to small but does work
  • AAA battery holder to small but does work 

 

Light Output: ★★★★

This flashlight has great flood and throw's well. 

 

Current Draw from tail cap: ★★★

1 x 18650Redilast 2600 mAh 1.53 amps on high

1 x Trustfire 26650 5000 mAh 1.68 amps on high

3 x AAA Alkaline's 0.6 amp (used cheap no name brand)

With my cheap DMM with skinny standard leads, might read higher with moddified leads, this same meter gives me around 1.6 amps for my ultrafire P60 drop ins where most others are getting 3 amps. I feel a 3 mode 3 amp driver swap comming on.  

 

Replacement drivers: ★★★★★

NANJG 105C, NANJG 105A, KD 8 x 7135 V2, AMC7135 x 8 or any other 17mm driver of your choice.

 

Summary:  ★★★★

Great for my first zoomy really good flood and throws decent in my opinion, excellent for general purpose use and would be easy to mod. I really like that it runs on multible batteries 1 x 26650 or 1 x 18650 with the included spacer or 3 x AAA with the included battery holder

A few pictures:

Screw In Pill

Zoomed Out

Zoomed In

Aspheric Lense & Bezel

 

Edited by: sb56637 on 09/02/2017 - 11:54
garrybunk
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Thanks benckie.  How is the zoom?  Stiff?  Does it stay in place if the light is jarred/shaken?  Does it make a good flooder?  How wide is the beam on flood (say at 3m distance)?

-Garry

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sb56637
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Thanks Benckie for the review! Frontpage'd and Sticky'd.

Budget Light Forum ...where Frugal meets with Flashlight!

Pulsar13
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Seems like a good mod light. However, I can't really get over the looks. I would probably never buy this light based on that alone. Smile Poppas W-838 looks much better, esp. the grey/titanium one.

Poppas W-838 black

Poppas W-838 grey/titanium

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I don't mind the looks, but wonder if a twist zoom would hold it's zoom tighter.  I also like the 26650 ability. I'm considering adding a good flooder to my collection.  Could even have a good use for it if it runs ok on 3AAA's (decent brightness with decent runtime).

-Garry

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benckie
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garrybunk wrote:

Thanks benckie.  How is the zoom?  Stiff?  Does it stay in place if the light is jarred/shaken?  Does it make a good flooder?  How wide is the beam on flood (say at 3m distance)?

-Garry

Hi Garry

To me the zoom is good it is stiff, it does stay in place when shaken hard or banged against my hand, it is a sliding zoom, not twist. It has a very wide floodly beam up close, i will have to take some measurments for you later its 12:18 am here im off to bed.

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How dim is it on 3AAA's?  (Can you compare to another light?)  What about runtime on 3AAA's? 

Thanks,
Garry

P.S.  Don't let the bed bugs bite!

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joe1512
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Why would you give this light such a good rating if it is very underdriven?

If that is the case, then its practically useless.  An XR-E works way better for flood to throws, so if you are gonna drive an emitter at only 1 amp, mine as well be an XR-E, or XP-E.   The emitter is cheaper and works better.

If it pulled 2.5 amps it would be quite nice.   One of the reviews said that it did.  Your measurements are kind of disappointing though, and more likely to be typical/accurate.

Too bad.  Maybe one of these days someone will decently drive a flood to throw light at the same level as all the fixed focused XM-Ls...

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I think Benckie's amperages are off.  See this:

benckie wrote:

With my cheap DMM with skinny standard leads, might read higher with moddified leads, this same meter gives me around 1.6 amps for my ultrafire P60 drop ins where most others are getting 3 amps.

This has been the case with other amperages he has measured.  I'm not saying expect it to be driven at 3A!  The way I understand it, the XM-L still gives a much wider flood which is what I would want.  Probably also more efficient (more lumens at less current draw) resulting in longer battery life (again, my interest). 

-Garry

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Thanks for the review benckie! 

Don wrote:

"But as I said long ago, you are more likely to be killed by a dead fish dropped by a seagull in the Sahara Desert than by a lithium ion

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joe1512 wrote:

Why would you give this light such a good rating if it is very underdriven?

If that is the case, then its practically useless.  An XR-E works way better for flood to throws, so if you are gonna drive an emitter at only 1 amp, mine as well be an XR-E, or XP-E.   The emitter is cheaper and works better.

If it pulled 2.5 amps it would be quite nice.   One of the reviews said that it did.  Your measurements are kind of disappointing though, and more likely to be typical/accurate.

Too bad.  Maybe one of these days someone will decently drive a flood to throw light at the same level as all the fixed focused XM-Ls...

Beacuse it has huge flood and throws well and puts out as much light as my L2P with an ultrafire 3 mode drop in. When white wall hunting this seams brighter, more intense and throw's further.

You could always put in a KD 8 x 7135 V2 and drive it 3 + amps for an extra cost of $4.79 shipped if you brought one and found it is under driven, then you could get rid of the s.o.s and strobe modes, money well spent IMO to have no strobe and s.o.s modes.

garrybunk wrote:

I think Benckie's amperages are off.  See this:

benckie wrote:

With my cheap DMM with skinny standard leads, might read higher with moddified leads, this same meter gives me around 1.6 amps for my ultrafire P60 drop ins where most others are getting 3 amps.

This has been the case with other amperages he has measured.  I'm not saying expect it to be driven at 3A!  The way I understand it, the XM-L still gives a much wider flood which is what I would want.  Probably also more efficient (more lumens at less current draw) resulting in longer battery life (again, my interest). 

-Garry

Im with you here Garry, plus i can not say 100% my DMM readings are acurate and i still can not find my fluke DMM since i moved house in december.

garrybunk wrote:

How wide is the beam on flood (say at 3m distance)?

-Garry

I got up early this morning and had a play with this torch, inside my house at 3 meters from a white wall the beam is too wide it lights up the wall, the roof and the floor making it hard to get a measurment @ 3 meters.

I had the same problem out side, my walls are only 2.5 meters tall if that helps. It gives out more of a wider throw then my TR-3T6 at the same distance to me thats impressive.

garrybunk wrote:

How dim is it on 3AAA's?  (Can you compare to another light?)  What about runtime on 3AAA's? 

It is slightly dimmer on 3 AAA's then li-on's, i have compaired it to a ultrafire 3 mode drop in and a trustfire A8 when white wall hunting it seam's to still be brighter and it still give's out a wider beam then my TR-3T6 it must be the aspherical lense. Estimated run time on 3 x 1000 mAh AAA,s is 75 min's.

Pulsar13 wrote:

Seems like a good mod light. However, I can't really get over the looks. I would probably never buy this light based on that alone. Smile Poppas W-838 looks much better, esp. the grey/titanium one.

I picked this one cause i dont mind the looks, it was cheaper and becuase it has more battery options, i like that it can run of 26650 batteries giving it the longest run time.

 

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Thanks benckie! Sounds awesome to me! A great flooder with some decent runtime and brightness on AAA's! Now I'm off to bed.

-Garry

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Nice review.  I like the fact it takes a 26650 battery.  That screw-in pill looks like it'll help dump heat, so upgrading the driver should be no problem. 

Richie

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I rarely find "AAA" and "decent runtime" as compatible. Normally not used in the same sentence. Undecided

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See the review posted on Manafont's product page - it says it pulls 2.5A from a TF 26650.  I'm going ahead and ordering one.  Would like to have it in my hands before June 3rd (my upcoming camping trip).

-Garry

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Some one else on here said they got 2.8 amps

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I posted that manafont review.  With the varying results reported here, I thought I should do a retest.  Here's what I found:

- TF 26650 after what seemed like light use: 1.8-2.0 A (I decided to recharge the battery and test again.)

- TF 26650 hot off the charger: 2.5-2.8A

I tried some 18650s that I had around and they were all in the 1.8-2.0 range.  I'm topping off a TF "flame" 2400 now to see how it does fresh off the charger.  UPDATE:  2.1A fresh from the charger.

Results are with a Craftsman 82345 Multimeter with the stock leads.

yavi
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I was who had 2.8A, here was the review: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/9057

 

I don't find it ugly, maybe because I am uglier? Haha.

 

For the price it is a good light, I replaced the retaining metal ring by a rubber o-ring and feel much better now for cents.

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Thanks for the confirmation & update ronparr.  I'm still ok with it driven at 2A.  Once I receive mine I'll try and remember to update this thread with my results (don't hold your breathe though!).  I'm even ok with a driver swap if deemed necessary.

Thanks yavi.  I remember now reading that review, but forgot about it until just now. 

-Garry

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Just now received my Poppas W-878 26650 - order placed 4/26/12, shipped 4/27/12, received today 5/7/12 - just 11 days.  Haven't tried a battery in it yet.  I just received my King Kong INR26650, and it needs charged up. 

First impressions:  kinda rough on quality - rough threads that seem like they would easily cross-thread.  Missing o-rings (at bezel and on main body to head connection).  Slider is stiff, but does feel like it's scraping metal as it slides.  +B spring at backside of the driver is off-center.  The 3AAA & the 18650 spacer are much narrower than the body of the light so they will rattle significantly - need wrapped with something to make them fit better.  Not too bad for the price. 

-Garry

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I thought it was good for the price, i use a 18650 spacer from IO

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Ok, finally got my King Kong INR26650 charged up and tested the light (only in a well lit office so far).  Wow!  Huge flood when zoomed out, and bright!  Low doesn't look much different than Medium, but I can't say much about that until I see it in the dark. 

Tailcap currents (measured with my low resistance modified test leads which yield 3A+ on my KDC8):

King Kong INR26650:

High - 4.16A (up to 4.55A if I press down hard to compress the +battery spring on the driver)
Med - 2.10A
Low - 1.06A

With 3 fresh new Duracell Alkalines:

High - 2.0A
Med - 1.08A
Low - 0.56A

       My only AAA NiMh cells were not charged up to test at this time (my single channel NiMh charger is out on loan right now).  Hmm . . . seems to be direct drive on high.  Seems to be a 100% - 50% - 25% mode spacing.  4A is a bit too high, but I bet I would see a little lower result with a protected 18650 (I don't have any on me to test at the moment).  I would say benckie needs to quit using his cheap DMM and find his Fluke!  He's going to be leading people astray!  (benckie, feel free to update your O.P. with my measurements if you want.)

       benckie, did yours have thermal grease under the LED?  From your photos it looks like it didn't (or at least not much).  I haven't disassembled mine yet, but I'm thinking I'll need to add thermal grease under the LED and at the pill threads. 

       Now I just have to find a PVC sleeve which adapts the 18650 and 3AAA carrier for a better fit.  Perhaps I should ask around for where to get a better sized 18650 to 26650 adaptor.  My King Kong 26650 fits well, not too loose.  The 3AAA carrier seems to be better than expected; the plastic is more solid than other ones I've seen.

-Garry

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I suspected mine is around 3 amps the same as my Trustfire A8 that I'm in love with right now. I don't trust my DDM to be honest and as i mentioned in my OP.

I sold a light to some one who got 4.89 amp at the tail when i was getting 2 amps but the light was a monster for light out put for what it was.....

I will not change the amp draws of the OP just yet, as i rather be under they say 3 amps and others get lower result's, plus if 10 people do current draw test's you will get 10 different results IMO, due to batteries, charge voltage, DMM, DDM leads, how hard you press (i didn't not press hard either) and the torch its self.

I put some Arctic silver thermal past under the LED, i use it for CPU's it is not to bad.

I have been using these for 18650 to 26650 battery spacers, it works well in this light but is a bit tight with redilast 2600 mAh cells.

18650 to 26650 battery converter case sleeve

I like the 3 x AAA battery holder it is solid, but is smaller then the battery tube, but is is spring loaded for good contact with the torch and batteries with solid bras contact,s. I use mine for charging.

If you find the zoom in and zoom out a bit ruff put some silicone grease on the rubber o-ring around the the pill and there is a alloy c-clip that ad's slight pressure when zooming a bit of grease on this helps it feel smoother with out loosing stiffness.

All in for a cheap zoomible 26650/18650 flash light that can be used with 3 x AAA in a emergency and a battery holder you can use for charging i found it good for the price.

 

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Has anyone actualy measured the width of the beam at wide? If is so wide then the measurment from 1m distance would be the best. Also interested in flood more than throw because of taking caving pictures....

How about led tint?

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Tint is a typical cool white T6, I would say around 1A. After my daughter is in bed I'll do a 1m measure.

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benckie, have you managed to do 1m beam measurement? Pictures would be fine too Wink Thanks!

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Last night I was able to get some measurements and some quick beamshots.  I measured the flood size at 10 feet away to be 11.5 feet wide and the throw to be 13 inches wide.  Really impressive flood!  Much wider than any lights I currently have.  Here are the quick rough beamshots.  These are with my King Kong INR26650 and on high mode.  The shed is about 150 to 200 feet away.  (Same location I take many other beamshots.)

 

Photo fairly well focused, but branch hanging in the way (notice the shed is faintly seen):

1

 

Same shot, but with branch moved (and slightly out of focus):

2

 

Zoomed for throw:

3

 

-Garry

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Nice, photos seems to tell me this is what i need to use it as flood light!

Benckie,

1)Do u think this light can be switched on at high all the way till battery dead?
*things like >>is the heat desipating good? read that led scare heat, afraid it spoil on 1st time if i buy & gunned it on high long hours - will be using it like home light, the only time it will be shut down is when battery are flat & need changing - bout 8 hours run at a go>> maybe 3 hours on high, 5 hours low)

2)The medium mode is it like 50% brightness like other lights? (Think is safer for xml when using it as home light? also maybe 3 hours on high, 5 hours low)

3) Do u think this POPPAS W-878 is the best bang floody light for every buck/cents? Is there other lights capable of same/better flood with floodyness/intensity cheaper that you know of? (Cos have to get 4-6 piece Frown)

Sorry for my english sentence structure, seems weired.

Reason for using 8 hours run on this is because i cannot bear to part with money to buy real floodlight or generator for electricity.

Thanks.

EDITED: Not running it every day 8 hour, is about twice or thrice every week - 8 hours run that is, rest of the time will be OFF.

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Not sure how to answer this one.

It is good at dissipating heat, but there is no cooling fins so i would not use it on high till the battery runs flat, generally with most high powered lights you need active cooling like walking or moving around, i use fans to do this for my if i do run time test's or i go for long walks at night.

To run it on high for 8 hours you would need 4 to 7 batteries for each light and to get the Maxim run time like that you would need to spend around $13 usd on each battery then need a charger to suit if you don't have one and i don't think many XML torches could do that at all.

I think 3 hours on high and 5 hours on low is to much for most XML lights you would need a pile of batteries and you run the risk of cooking the led or driver, to replace the driver is under $5 usd and to replace the led is under $9 usd and then you need equipment for the repair.

Medium mode is around 60 to 50 % at a guess as i have not measured it, maybe others can chime in here.

I think the POPPAS W-878 has huge flood and is good for the price i payed, every one Ive showed it to has been impressed by it.

There is other lights, there is 2 that i have personally used that can run from 2 to 3 hours on high or run 8 + hours on medium or low and still give out good light to light up a room, but they cost $35 to $55 usd each and they both need 3 x 18650 batteries each to do this and they would need electric fans to blow air on them to help keep cool or be run in very very cold temptress, like a refrigerator or ice box not like Singapore, i could buy a generator cheaper here then i could buy 4 to 6 torches, batteries, chargers and run them 2 or 3 times a week.

Maybe make a post on in the forum asking for suggestions, i know there are lights are there that can run for days on low mode but will not put out much light or heat and use cheaper batteries but i have no experience with them, so i have no idea.

If i was you i would be looking at lanterns, big candles, gas or kero lights or a generator as using XML LEDs to do this job is going to cost to much and not give you what you need.

I wish you all the best with your lighting issues i hope it works out.

 

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Thanks for ur valueble insight.

This is hard for me...decent big lantern are quite expensive over my side (rechargeble 8 Ds inside, florensent tube, coming USD$ 200/-).-[i rather forgo the lantern & get HID torch, haha] **generator size [bringing in & out of country is a hassle-dunno will there be thief if i leave the generator at the house with flimsy door], kero lights are just like 1 candle. Real commercial floodlights running 24v/36v cost slightly over usd$1k to reach me..

I read many reviews of "flood to throw torch" but your photos say a thousands words, am very much impressed with Poppas w878 too.Tongue Out 

Poppas w878 seems to be the cheapest way for me, but having to use so many battery also dun seems any bang for buck.
Also do not know can it handle car battery 12v like tf-3t6, hmmmmmm......how should i wire them? LOL

May i know if the "head & body" (do not know the exact term) O-ring is sufficent for watertight/submissible?

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Location: Western Austraila

Dennis i have an idea ill post it in your orginal thread asking about this subject.

http://budgetlightforum.com/node/9762#comment-177107

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