This is not a common light so not sure if any BLFers will have one, but its a 4AA zoomie that i’ve owned for a while. Its not a traditional zoomie, and has a design flaw, its heatsink (and the rest of the light) are encased in plastic, making it impervious to ano damage but not letting the heat out.
When i first got it i ran it for 1/2 hour on high (600 lumens) which partially melted the battery carrier and caused the light to start flickering intermittently. Since then the light died and no longer lights up, but Coast did send me a warranty replacement and told me to toss the light.
There is no apparent way to take it apart, it appears the head is glued together, think SK68 head glued together. Any ideas on how to get it apart. Glue dissolver or anything like that? In the end if i destroy the light it does not matter since its been replaced and i now know high is to only be used for 5-10 mins (would be nice if they added that to the instructions, or had a turbo timer or temperature stepdown).
Its a nice light, i like 4AA, its body can’t be damaged by dropping on concrete/asphalt but the battery carrier is hard on battery labels, and the heatsinking is not well designed
I would like to get it apart without damage if possible and repair it, but like i said it can be destroyed but who on BLF can condone trashing a flashlight, that would be practically sacrilege
It sounds like, Bort, that the regulation failed on the 1st light.
I ran some runtime tests with a Reed Instruments SD-1128 light meter data logger (see below).
Damn, this thing engages in extreme regulation from initial turn-on (both high and medium).
My Texas Ace Calibrated Lumens Tube measured:
Immediate turn-on: 900 lumens
Six seconds after turn-on: 711 lumens
30 seconds: 534 lumens
The light never got hot - only slightly warm around the top of the light.
CONCLUSION (supporting Bort) - I suspect the plastic over steel does not allow much heat to dissipate, which explains the extreme down-regulating. If there's anything good to say about the extreme down-regulating; the run-time will be much longer.
I was just thinking yesterday that i should destroy the broken light just to see how its assembled since i can’t get it apart. I don’t think its regulated, i think the heat is sagging the output and frying it from the inside out, the plastic head gets warm but if you take the batteries out the tip of the battery holder is almost burning hot.
Definitely on the cold side, slightly more bluish than any other high-end lights I have from Zebralight/Olight/Fenix/Acebeam/Convoy/Jetbeam/Nicore. I hadn't really thought about it before, but just did a side-by-side comparison with several other lights.
It won’t be anytime soon, being arctic winter here, but in the spring i might consider it (then i have to figure out how). I have 3 more of these but what i do now is only use maximum for 5 mins, or 10 if really necessary, no more.
I’d like to be able to take it apart to get the O-ring out (on the lamp end). It’s so tight, to achieve its waterproof level, that it takes two hands to twist the zoom.
Hey, my first post or reply here but have been wanting to ask this since reading your breakdown of the Coast 600. I did read about the less than adequate heat dissipation but am still curious to the capabilities of the led . I haven’t read many posts about flashlights that operate on standard type batteries. And I havent searched nor read about anyone using dummy or empty cell batteries yet so forgive me for not trying to read up a little more. Not much has been written on the polysteel 600 so figured this would be a good place to ask. This flashlight was a gift. Its not bad. But I do like using the lithium ion batteries and just feel Im getting the most out of the flashlights that allow them. So what I’m curious about is dummy cells. If you used two dummy cells and two 14500 batteries totalling 7 volts- 7.4 volts would this flashlight or led be able to handle it without frying something. I know the flashlight may have trouble or will have trouble dissipating the heat but is the driver and led equipped to handle that? I figure if the flashlight can handle 6 volts if using AA batteries whats an extra volt? Ha. But it is a nice enough light that I would atleast attempt to get your insight on it before just trying it out. Anyways. Happy to read about the flashlight and being on here in general so thank you for allowing me to ask and hope to hear from you or anyone that has thoughts on the dummy cells paired with the 14500’s so I can potentially use those batteries instead or atleast use them temporarily if curious about the 1 volt of increased output.
Two 14500s will fry the LED
The light uses an XM-L2 chip iirc.
Just enjoy it with 4AA, use NiMH and it will actually maintain full brightness until its almost dead, which is better then an 18650 light that uses the same chip.
That said its probably only run at about 2A and the heatsinking sucks so use at maximum for 5-10 mins or less is my advice.
Also the switch is not designed for frequent use, it does not seem as durable as some of my better 18650 lights.
Thank you for the reply. It is a decent enough light not to fry it and wanted to check back on here before tempted to do it again. I purchased an atomic beam for my son and 70 yr old dad. They seem to like it. It seems to actually use an xm l2 vs some of the cheaper knock offs. Im looking for a bit more powerful zoomable for myself with a brighter and further beam or potentially a smaller version like a sk98 that uses an xm l2 and 18650. I just like the size and look of the sk98 type light. In the process of purchasing the lumintop gt mini for throw since the ds1 appears to be discontinued and the Noctigon k1 is double in price though it appears double in throwing power. Anyways, thank you again. If you have any suggestions for decent zoomable smaller and equal to or more powerful t/beam wise vs the atomic beam please let me know. I know the atomic beam is something to scoff at by some but kinda like the versatility of it and for the on sale price I purchased them for it isnt a bad everyday type light. Appreciate it in advance.
I hacksawed the head apart. Its glued where the round hits the knurled on the head iirc. The zoom is controlled by a reverse thread. The pill is a round aluminum thing that is removable.
Once you get it open it can never be reassembled since you have to destroy it to get it apart.
Though as i mentioned earlier the lifetime warranty was excellent.
I took a picture of it, i think i posted on BLF somewhere, but i should have it, i’ll try looking for it on my phone later today if i get a chance.
