How to Mod Sunwayman V11R or V10R Driver For More Current

You would need only one of these 22uf instead of using two 10uf paralleled, just swap the original out. Should work just as good, two paralleled that microa recommended will work also.
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/c2012x5r1a226k125ab/tdk

Thx guys! Cart has been updated.
Gotta question regarding V11R’s…they are XML reflector lights, so how is the beam with XPG size emitters? What’s the size of the MCPCB?
Just to know what to expect when i get “11”

The bean looks to me decent with the LH351D 3535 emitter.
The MCPCB size is 12mm. This is the only place that I found at the time that had them. https://ogazent.com/store/leds/xp-g2-led-on-12mm-copper-star/
Relow the xp-g2 off and use the 3535 emitter of your choice. The xp-g2 1A would be a little to much on the cool side for me 6500k.

Finally got my V11R and V10R Ti.

V11R works great but V10R Ti doesn't want to ramp on primaries and on liions ramp suddenly almost at the max setting.

This thread is perfect, now Ti will be tuned. Hopefully it will resolve primary cell issue as well

Only components to arrive in few days and i'm ready to go.

Will post update of my mod (not so soon)

If someone's looking for these oldtimers here's the link:

http://sunwayman.eu/lang-en/6-v-series

These are with XPG emitters so no need to hassle with extra MCPCB, straight forward emitter swap

If you have had the head apart, I would check to make sure the magnets are installed with the correct polarity.
If you had them out it takes a little trial and error to figure out which way they go back in for correct operation.
Once I figure out the correct arrangement, I usually add a drop of UV glue and blast them with the Convoy S2 UV light.

Sweet! Need to check that part! Since i’ve got a user without letters on the bezel i’d say it was taken apart…

Does anyone know if the electronics are all the same in V10A/V20A/V10R/V11R?

I believe so… Don’t have V10A nor V20A but i think only battery tubes are different
Moderator could confirm this

I dont have a V10A or a V20A but they are both rotary lights that appear to be the same rotary controlled… When I tested the driver it would work down to .7v if I remember correctly. So since 1 is a AA light and the other is a 2AA light and a rotary variable, I would say yes since both those fall in the boost/direct drive drivers range. The lumen output also looks to be about on par with both lights from the voltage input from my testing. I would say it’s probably the same driver.

Did you ever get round to the lighted tail switch mod? Any pics?

:beer:

Don’t have any pics, sorry. The convoy lighted tail cap switches fit with a little filing to the clear washer. I think if I remember right, the switch fits right in but the clear washer had to be filed until the extra lip was almost gone. You lose the momentary function by changing out the switches.
These are the switches I have used. https://www.fasttech.com/products/1608/10047923/9627747-switch-tail-cap-set-for-diy-flashlight-3-pieces
.
I have used the original switch and glued on the resistors and leds and made all the appropriate connections keeping the momentary switch function. But it’s time consuming and teidous soldering. I also built one GFS16 switch with the led board and installed in the V11R. GFS16 - Battery Indicator Tailcap Light & 1mR FET Tailswitch! (Rev B)
The led board can also be installed on the original switch with a little filing and wiring.
Gchart also has a led battery indicator board that may fit also, I haven’t tried it yet but the dimensions are close. Gchart board 15.8mm, V11R switch 16.6mm. It should work setting gchart’s board on the original switch and wiring to the appropriate places.
D.I.Y. Illuminated Tailcap - gChart Editions - #141 by gchart
You will need the clear switch boot. I believe the Kaidomain 14mm x 8mm is the one I use.
http://kaidomain.com/Flashlight-DIY-and-Tools/silicone-tailcaps/14mm-D-x-8mm-H-Silicone-Tailcaps-5pcs

Thanks for the update and all the links!

:beer:

Does anyone know how to fix the blinking problem for the M11R when the light is off?

I am not aware of what blinking problem you are experiencing.
Maybe describe, or post a video, showing what you mean.

Have you tried a fresh battery?

I believe that a lot of these models had that problem in the beginning.

It only occurs with a RCR123 or 16350 battery. When you turn the light to off with the control ring it goes off but the LED flashes now and then. The higher the voltage of the battery the more often it flashes. If you put in a normal CR123 everything is okay.

So, in my opinion, it clearly has to do with the higher voltage of the battery and there might be a electronical component that is leaking current to the LED.

I was wondering if someone found out what the exact problem was and how to fix it.

I’ve got a few questions. I was swapping the LED on my V10R Ti+ today and I got the funky smell to come out of the driver. I want to put the magic smoke back in, as they say. and I believe I’ve traced it to the schottky diode labelled “14” from Moderator007’s first post. I believe the LED- wire intermittently shorted to ground.

1. Does it make sense that the Schottky diode in question would take the hit? Is there anything else I should order at the same time “just in case”? Anything else I can test easily with a multimeter? The diode is definitely dead - it is deformed :wink:
2. I can’t find the schottky diode that Moderator007 recommended in stock anywhere. I’d be fine with an equivalent to the stock diode, since I’m not trying to increase current. I’d prefer to stick with Mouser. Ideally something in-stock, or at least expected during November at the latest. Purchasable in small quantities of course (10 max). I’d be fine purchasing a small sampling of up to about 5 different diodes for trial and error if necessary.
3. I’m tempted to replace the 4.7µH inductor as well, since it looks… funkier than the one Moderator007 has pictured. And they’re cheap enough, and I’ll already be in there. Is there any reason not to use the “upgrade” inductor Moderator007 used? Given that his post is three years old by now, is there a better option?

I just went with the BAT60A. I also ordered the “upgrade” inductor, and the single-cap upgrade (C2012X5R1A226K125AB) linked later in the thread. (I ordered another schottky diode to try if BAT60A didn’t work, and some spare Pam2803 just in case. I initially replaced just the Schottky diode, but no love. My guess was the inductor was bad too, so I removed the stock one - and it came off in two pieces. Clearly, it had suffered as well. So I replaced it with the upgrade version SRP5030CA-4R7M (and for good measure I swapped in the C2012X5R1A226K125AB at the same time) and the light’s function is restored. I checked it in boost mode with the AA extender and an actual alkaleak that was lying on my desk, and that worked too.

Congratulations! :student: :crown: :beer: :+1:

I like these kind of success stories, glad you got it working again, In a short or over voltage condition the 3 componets I mentioned in the op all see the load, so that’s where to look first if there’s no visible problem. The BAT60A should work fine, if I remember correctly the one I recommended has a slightly lower resistance but the BAT60A is pretty low also. Glad you got it working again. :wink:

Thanks Moderator007. It’s been working great since, and looking great too with the sw45k. And re-lubing has only been positive as well. My grease was thicker than whatever was in there before, but it isn’t locking up at all on me. And now I know how easy it is to re-lube too, so I won’t worry if it happens again.