Looks like some great progress!
Good work 
I have been planning to get an Ender3 as a backup printer, but it would need an enclosure like yours. What is the width and depth needed to fit that thing with the moving bed?
20x26x28 is what it takes to fit cr10. for ender 3, a smaller one would do
i build mine myself, my printer didn’t come with one.
Would 20”wide x 19”deep be enough?
core finished, now i’ll have to remove lots of supports.
there was supposed to be a sign, on the back of it, it showed pretty clear in slicer, but it came out much worst, i can barely read some words others can’t read at all,
very good question, but i can’t say for sure unless i measure, and allow some room for loading filament, and moving parts.
Looks like the text on the back got lost in the layer changes. With that slant, it looks like a challenging area for text. Adaptive layer height might have helped a little bit (that is, if you didn’t use it), but it probably wouldn’t have been enough to address that. Overall, looks great. Can’t wait to see it with the supports removed.
yep, looks like exactly what happened, layers change. next time i’ll either use larger letters, or do sign on flat parts, actually sides got their pattern printed nicely, and it was on vertical surface.
as i remove supports, some parts of light are not looking that great, i’ll see what i can do about that, but i want to avoid acetone fume smoothing, in theory it sounds great and all, but in reality it makes parts smooth as mirror, and they are too prone to scratching, making scratches too visible, it is good for items that you do not use, or not doing anything with them. just have then on a shelf for display, but the good news is most of those places with bad finish, are internal. will take a pic when i remove all the supports.
yea for a slightly tilted top like that layers will be very visible. I imagine your slicer could be set to change to thin layers near the top. But it’s just a tough place to put text.
all printed parts are done, fit is very good, only 1 part inside needs some trimming. the switch cover, some others still have a bit of brim.
Can’t wait to it assembled.
That printing looks orsm. Nice work.
thanks man, but it doesn’t compare to your bullds, not even close,
looking on your parts list I think I see drivers with tons of AMCs, they run quite hot even in a metal tube light, in a plastic light you will see massive thermal throttle of them
you mean they will output less than 350ma?
had to reprint the head due to fitting issue, several times, at the end i still had to do some sanding in the final print, i ran out of black abs, so head spacer will be red.
as you see i made a channel for o’rings around led opening.
Looking great
Yep. 
minor setback, 2 leds destroyed, color leds are reflown on sinkpad stars, 1.6mm iirc, triple from kaidomain was 1mm, so i had to cut legs of the tir, so it presses against the mcpcb, guess i cut them too short, domes embedded into the lens and came off taking phosphorus with them. will have to order triples from mtn electronic, they are mounted on noctogons, which are 1,6mm as well, iirc. so now since both pairs are same hight i will have to redesign the head spacer, again, but this time i will eliminate the “window” over the optics. ledil triples unlike carclo has a small ledge, where i will place an o ring, and headspacer will be pushing against it, sealing it from outside, as well as pressing it firm against a heatsink.
finished the head, well almost, still need to glue a thermal switch, waiting for a thermal epoxy to come in, but there is something strange going on, i wanted to see how bright it is from 1 18650 in dd, so i hooked up protected panasonic, to 6x xpg3 wired in parallel, (btw since i had to order new triples that had a thicker star, i had to completely redesign the head, i eliminated the need for outside glass\window .
so after hooking up 1 cell. the leds blinked and went out, it happened every time i connected the cell, so at first i thought the leds are sorted, prbly pinched a wire or something, so i checked continuity, there is none, so leds aren’t shorted,. so i hooked my dmm, and realized the pcb brakes the circuit on overcurrent. so i wanted to measure how much current 6 xpg3 pull, my dmm went OL, so it was over 10A. so then i figured i’ll wire a driver now, so i wired several different liner drivers, and in all cases results were the same, OL, which can not really be true, no way a 4amc driver can pull over 10A from a cell, i did check several times if i did not wire them DD by mistake, i know it is physically impossible, so i think my dmm is lying. or it’s battery is low, and it gives faulty reading, will try a different one tonight, and will to replace battery first.
that aluminum tape covers a hole where thermal switch will go,