The Wildtrail D80-V2 has a flintrock-bistro driver that can be set to precisely the 6x7135 engaged. I did some measurements on the SBT-90.2 mod: 2.16A, 808 lumen. The led at 2.16A measures 2.76V. So when the battery at a current of 2.16A delivers 2.76V (ignoring resistances in the flashlight, at 2.16A the voltage drop will be very low) the flashlight efficiency is 136 lm/W. Really high. Unfortunately in the entire range from full to completely empty, a VTC6 at 2.16A has more voltage than that. i.e when full it runs at 4V, the efficiency is thus 94 lm/W, which is still pretty good. So at low currents the SBT-90 has good efficiency.
I left the driver in place, these are the stock wires, I think 20 AWG. If the current had been low-ish that was a next job, but 19A on a full battery (prob. slightly lower with tail in place) was fine.
I recently got the L21A with XHP35, which is single cell as well.
On turbo i measured more than 9 Amps! according Convoy.AE it should do 2,3A to the LED
So it roughly makes an efficiency of around 75%
I bought some boost drivers from Convoy that are perhaps the same ones that are in your L21A, I used them for a GT40 led (also 12V) but at highest setting I get a pretty annoying whine. Does your L21A have a whine also?
2 days ago I modded 2 lights and made my current EDC set!
On the Panda White Tool AA V2.0 I put a: pebbled optic, a Luxeon V2 3000K from led4power, a 15mm driver with Bistro HD OTSM from Lexel , a rubber tailcap from On The Road i3 , and a blue acqua GITD tube from CRX. The dangler and the skull are from AliExpress stores. The lighted switch was put on this light by Henk4U2 from whom I won the light
On the Convoy S2+ mini, I put: a lighted tailswitch from Convoy, a blue ruber tailcap from Kaidomain (AliExpress store), a pocket clip from the Nitefox ES10K (that I modded with butane lighter to modify the colour), a 17mm driver with Bistro HD OTSM from Lexel that I bought a while ago and that I had in use in another flashlight,, a Carclo 10511 from Nealsgadgets, a triple board with 3 XP-G2 S4-5A from Jaxman, and a blue acqua GITD gasket from CRX! The pill + spacer (from kiriba-ru) were already soldered before as seen on the indicated link!
All the lights have the same UI configured: Mode 9 of Bistro HD OTSM [ ONE7135, 0, //9: Basic Non-PWM ~150 lumen low regulated mode] + Moonlight + access to hidden Turbo and blinkies !
Finally I am having EDC flashlights as I want and need them!
Thanks my friend
BTW, even not being 90CRI, the Luxeon V2 3000K produces a beautiful beam and has an amazing tint In photo it cannot be shown perfectly! This is an LED youād probably appreciate too
Working on a buddies GT, converting it to the SBT-90 Gen 2. Making the battery carrier parallel wasnāt as bad as I thought it would be, for the driver I simply carved down a Q8 driver a little and swapped the FET for an Infineon then flashed Anduril. Close now!
Edit: forgot to mention that I removed the brass donut connecting ring on the Q8 driver and put the brass button from the GTās driver in the center.
Nop, not glued, only snapped in! Fits perfectly and doesnāt get out of the place Been carrying it for some days in this configuration and had 0 problems wit it, including no accidental activation!
Looks like, on some older 30Qās, it does some 5040 lumens at start, makes 1.58Mcd in a 5M test. If the weather allows Iāll try to get a 30M lux test tonight and a beamshot or threeā¦
First was my S3. It has a CREE XM-L2 4250-4500K LED and an AR lens. The beam was not the best with lots of artifacts and a greenish ring. I didnāt use it much, except for outside. I tried switching to a non-AR lens and a different reflector, but the beam was not much better. Then I decided to make a diffused lens from some acrylic spacers that I kept from a storage container:
What a huge difference that made! No artifacts and I even see some rosiness now.
Second was my S2+ clear (silver) with a Samsung LH351D 4000K 90+ CRI LED. Iāve worked on it before to clean up the beam with a different reflector, but it still had some artifacts. So I replaced the non-AR lens with the same acrylic lens and it made a big improvement, but made the beam too diffused. So I took the AR lens from the S3 and sanded one side with 60 grit sandpaper. That turned out to be perfect - no artifacts, but still had some throw.
Left S2+, right S3:
Sure I know Iāve lost some lumens doing to this, but itās worth it to me to have great beams! And after all, these are EDCs, so the emphasis on beams is more important than lumens.