Ok, I managed to put in mine and decided to do a small review. Originally I posponed installing this plate because I wanted to wait until I manage to flash it to correct rhe voltage measurement. So this copper thermal path works great. At 24° C room temterature the flashlight didnt throttle down from max ramp in 2 minutes. The head and body also get quite warmer during rampimg than before this mod. In general I didnt notice any output difference (visually) in minutes after turn on. Without the mode it dropped down to visually half intensity in seconds. All in all fucking amazing mod! Thank you man of light!
And and just an FYI. This flashlight is not flashing friendly. You got to unsolder 5 cables, 3 of th really small and really thing, disassemble everything to get to the Attiny85 MCU. All in all it was an interesting experience and I learned a lot about flashing and Anduril firmware, but I am not going to flash anything without pogo pins in the future. Everything is very tight and small inside and its easy to damage components on board easily. EMISARs are much more flashing friendly.
I’m going to replace the existing wires with much longer ones and squeeze it all in the cavity so I can pull the driver board without de-soldering cables again
Recently I installed the copper heatsink in my Mateminco MT07.
It is a huge improvement. The thermal properties are better than a FF E07 now as it gets hot only slowly. The whole head heats up until the flashlight steps down. Before, it stepped down even on Turbo before the head got hot. The copper heatsink upgrade made the MF01 mini or MT07 suitable for real world use as it can sustain a certain high output now. Thank you, man of light, for making this possible.
Oh and I forgot to mention something. The copper plate fitts perfectly on the aluminium ones, but the copper and brass seem to have slightly different tolerances or dimensions. The brass one was abit “snug” but I managed to press it in with my fingers, but the copper one was harder. I resorted to using plastic rod and a small screwdriver head as a hammer to gently tap it in. It didnt take long and wasnt destructive, but I couldnt just press it in with fingers. So if you have the copper/brass ones you might have to use some gentle tap tap.
Oh, sorry I was not aware of this fact, that the aluminum, brass and copper versions have different inner dimensions.
Maybe it is only the coating of the brass and copper one, that slightly increases the surface volume.
My copper version is on the way, as soon as I get it, I will analyze this fitting issue.
Maybe it is just the surface coating, it was not really an issue. Nothing a person who resorts to modding couldnt do. It didnt require any ajustements or any changes to components, just some force. It works great on brass and copper as well, no other issue.
Hi guys, a short update of the shipping status of the 2nd batch.
Yesterday I shipped the first half of the 2nd batch, just not yet sent the information via PM, cause of time troubles. I go in the order of payment.
Today I already prepared the shipping labels for the rest of the 2nd batch and will bring the to post tomorrow or monday.
I will also update the list in post #2 with the names of all interested.
I did not measure but I put mine on and it lasts at highest ramp for over a minute. Probably longer but that is good. I did not convert F to C in the beginning so I thought it was no better but once I set room temp and thermal limit correctly it is now as expected and I really like this light even more. Thanks man of light!
P.S. I used MX4 on sides of plate and everywhere as shown By man of light, and I have a copper head with Aluminum body. I did not have any tolerance issue getting my plate to slide into the copper head. I was generous with extra MX4 on the sides and so MX4 gets on the head’s inner threads a little as you slide it in but that’s ok I just leave it there. this way I have a good thermal path to the the head. I read the MX4 works even better after several cycles on/off. Lining up the screws is really the hardest part and would be same for all minis. Put your screws into the plate first and it’s easier to line up.
