Today I made the helmet mount from a 1.5 mm aluminum:

After cutting it to proper dimensions, I had to curve it so it will sit properly on the helmet:
  

Luckily a 18650 cell came out very handy to draw the 2 half circles at the ends:


To fold it precisely, I made small cuts at two sides of the Aluminum:
 

Unfortunately, I forgot about the cable gland when designing this mount so I had to file it a bit in order to allow a better pitching range  

MRsDNF wrote:

What thread did your gland have? After a couple of small ones myself.

While waiting to get the electronics I ordered from Fasttech (I am getting a bit worried that I won't get it in time to finish the light till the end of the month )  I decided to build the battery case:

I first saw the body from a thick cutting board, making a tight space for a double 18650 battery holder:


Then drilled holes for the screws and cable and file the battery holder to make some space for the wires: 


I cut the rear and front covers from 2 mm Perspex:


And had to sand it:


After a lot of sanding:

Continuing with the battery box, today I soldered and glued the cable

First I wanted to easily identify the right polarity for the batteries even while changing batteries in the cave using the spare light:
   

So I painted half of the battery holder in red to mark the positive side  


Then I soldered the cable (2P1S):
   

And last thing for today, glue the cable and seal the hole:


I had to glue it instead of using a cable gland since the hole is very close to the edge in order to allow the wires to enter the case below the battery holder.
I used shoe goo because is is perfect for this purpose: bond good to plastics, elastic and waterproof 
Now I have to wait for the glue to cure... 

Today was waterproofing day....

I cut rubber seals for the battery box: 

And for th head unit:


And glued everything 


So again I have to wait for it to cure....

The next step (unless I finally get the electronics package) Is my patent how to secure the screws so I don't lose them while changing batteries, not sure if I can explain it in pictures maybe I shoot a short video   

MRsDNF wrote:

I see you have a long weight. :FACEPALM:

DB Custom wrote:

We call that a BFH Steve. For those times when the LFH just won't get it done.... ;)

Then I solder an Arduino shield with 2 LEDs and a momentary switch to help me develop my costum caving FW for 2 separate emitters:

As usual, programing the Attiny using Arduino was pain in the A** but finally I managed to burn the "blinking" test program    

Although I already made my own helmet mount, I decided to change it and go for the common GoPro mount.

I bought an aluminium mount but had to modify it in order to fit headlamp instead a camera and also to shorten it in order to keep the light closer to the helmet 
 

Then I had to cut part of the heatsink in order to make space for the mount as close as possible to the body
  

And the final result 


Now I have to drill in my helmet, not sure I am ready for this irreversible step 

MtnDon wrote:

3M doublestick tape....VHB https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/vhb-tapes-us/[/quote]
Is it strong enough? I tend to hit my head in rocks while caving (hence the helmet) 

MtnDon wrote:

There are several varieties. I do not know all there is to know about which one for what job. BUT, the VHB tape is used to hold the aluminum metal panels to the welded steel or wood framework of some cargo trailers. Many trailers use screws to secure the panels, but there are some that have no exterior screws showing. Those are VHB taped. I have used VHB for small projects and it has worked extremely well. https://www.tecmanuk.com/news/posts/applications-of-3m-vhb-tapes/ I would have used it to affix the wood skins to my contest entry, but the only tapes I have on hand are too thick. But probably ideal for a helmet light. have used this one on many things. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BT0A6MG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_as... "Check out this article":https://www.fastenation.com/blog/an-experts-guide-to-using-3mtm-vhbtm-ta...

 

Thanks, I will check it

 

MRsDNF wrote:

Nice idea for a mount YuvalS. What did you use to cut the heatsink fins out to fit the mount?

 

I took this idea from some commercial lights.

Cutting the heatsink was challenging, I used most of my Dremel bits the most helpful was the engraver

I think I will use a glue, so isn't regular (paste) glue will be better than double sided?

In addition, manufacturer recommend not using any glue nor stickers on the helmet, what do you think? Can it weakens the helmet?

It is time to start working on the circuit, I had an Idea to try print the PCB at home but most of the components are still on the way from China 
Luckily I did got some drivers for other project and can use them:

1. In order to separately control 2 LEDs (Flood and Spot) I have to use both PWM pins of the MCU. (pin 5 and pin 6).
2. Pin 2 (PB3) will be set as a pull up input and be connected to GND by a Momentary NO switch.
3. Pin 3 (PB4) will be set as a digital output and connected to a blue (red is in the lost package) LED for battery indication.

Since I have to use a Nanjg 105C and a 1.4A single mode Drives, the control of the 2nd driver will be connected to Star2 (pin5 - OC0A) of the Nanjg.

The blue led will be connected to Star3 (pin3 - PB4)

And the switch to Star4 (pin2 - PB3)

Startin soldering, first I had to add 4 more AMCs to the 1.4A driver in order to allow maximum output of 1000 Lumens for each LED
 

Unfortunately it wasn't the tiniest thing I has to soldar, but first I cut the outer GND ring of the Nanjg 105C to allow easier and stronger soldering to the stars:
 

Finally I soldered 1806 resistor and LED to star3:


This is the first time I am soldering SMT parts by hand and it wasn't fun. 
Next step is optics.....