All the XHPs (except for the new’n’special 3V ones) are 6V or more. If you could get a boost-driver to fit, it’d work.
Beware, though, that zoomies in general do not have the best thermal path, so what might work great in a regular tubelight or plunger-light, will likely build up too much heat in a zoomie’s LED.
And if doesn’t have a solid shelf but a “hollow” one (sits on a ridge/ledge instead, big gaping hole in the middle), it’ll be even worse.
If I get this host, is there anything I can improve on it thermally, so it is better suited for the xhp 70?
Or do I just have to get a good host in the beginning and then get a fitting LED?
This host is already pretty good thermally with an integrated shelf and deep cooling fins. You should use a 20mm copper PCB for the XHP70 with a good thermal paste underneath. The driver would need to be 22mm.
I just ordered the host, now it only needs to arrive.
Do you have any Suggestion, Where i get decent cree LEDs, not the nockoffs and Also decent drivers for them?
Can you sugfest me a driver for the xhp 70, or what am I looking for?
The convoy C8 with the xhp50.2 what’s the output and current?
Today the resistors arrived. I added 4 of the new resistors on top of the old ones, but i don’t think it did much.
I now measure 1.3A at the LED. Can I add more resistors, or is that too much for the board?
Ok I just kept adding resistors, until the current at the LED didnt change anymore. It runs at 1.75A now and is noticeably brighter. It also gets a lot warmer than before, so i think i will leave it here. The other parts are ordered, I will keep you posted once they arrive.
The XHP70.2 is normally not sold as a bare nockoff, you will find those mostly in flashlights. One source for XHP70.2 is Kaidomain or you can search for XHP70.2 on Aliexpress. For a genuine XHP70.2 in the brightest P2 bin: Convoy flashlight store
The XHP70 needs a driver with 6V and 5A. You can buy a boost driver that is used with one battery (1S) or a buck driver for two batteries. 1S boost driver 2S/3S buck driver
Thanks for the answer. I already ordered a xhp70 with driver on aliexpress but i now know, that the driver is too big…
I will order one of the suggested drivers now. Hope they wont take too long to get here.
Will the bare xhp70 also be a real cree one, or do you get those as bare nockoffs as well?
I bought it in a bundle with a driver.
https://de.aliexpress.com/item/32334389264.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.45f54c4d9HOjlj
Do i need to get a different emitter as well, or will this one be sufficient?
You would need a 22mm driver. Also, you need to decide if you want to use the C8.2 with the extension tube and two batteries or only with one battery and shorter. You can use a buck driver only with two batteries and a boost driver only with one battery. That is important to know and decide before purchase. Normally it takes a month with registered shipping for parts to arrive.
I decided for the extension tube and the buck converter. If i understand it correctly, it should givr me better runtime.
This should be genuine. Just to give you an example, this would be the knockoff. I have ordered from this store already and they are reliable. Somewhere on BLF there should be a list of trusted stores.
The XHP70 has separated dies and sometimes especially in smooth reflectors it gives you a donut hole (dark spot in the center of the beam). That is why the second generation XHP70.2 is recommended. XHP70.2
I’ll test the chip when it gets here. If I have a donut hole, I can still order a xhp 70.2. For now, I will wait for the stuff to arrive.
But thanks for the tip anyway.
Two 26650 give you definitely more runtime. Sometimes the donut hole can be removed with an orange peel reflector.
Good luck with the mod!
Since I already posted the pictures of the driver here, is there any way to get rid of the strobe mode?
The driver has high-low-strobe as modes
I’m assuming you mean the stock driver, not the driver that came with your new LED? (I doubt you’ll get that 22mm driver in the aliexpress listing to fit into that light.) Either way the answer is likely the same.
Technically the answer might be “yes”, but you will need the equipment and knowledge to reprogram the IC that controls the modes. If this was a attiny chip it might be “relatively” straight forward to flash one of the popular firmwares developed by BLF members (still requires hardware, but firmware and walkthroughs are available for how-to-do). If it’s a different chip (probably the case here) you would need the ability to reverse engineer and change the stock light firmware I believe.
The more likely scenario would be to “just” put in a new driver with the firmware/UI you want, but even that will be a more advanced mod on the light you’ve got (e-switch, recharging circuit) than with something like a Convoy S2.
Ok Thanks for the answer. I guess i will havo to live with the strobe then.
Dunno specifix for your driver, but in some cases you can crowbar the enable signal or whatever so that it’s high-only. Did that to a crappy AT01 with h/l/s, ’though it used its own internal FET, and just used resistors to limit current. Shorted out the IC so that it was bypassed all the time. Basically just switch, LED, resistors. No more annoying mode-changes due to a crappy flickery switch, either.
If you still want modes, LVP, etc., no-go.
Dies this work for electrical Switches? I read it only works on tailcaps.