I modified a D25LC2 Mini clip for use on my S21A and C8+:
The D25 was my EDC for a long time but the screw holes failed. An M2 x 6mm screw and nut fits perfectly for these clips and lights. I think the clip just made the S21A my new EDC!
In fact, I would like to know where I can buy more of this or similar clip model (?). Only if the Convoy clip was as good as this one.
I guess it is relatively recent there, maybe from last year, but it has lights, clips, batteries and accessories ! And your search gave me some ideas as well concerning the clips
BTW, some time ago I did something alike to get a less pretty result, compared to yours
I recently picked up an Olight S1R Baton II to use at work because I like the tiny form factor and the magnetic charger is great for quick top-offs when I swing by the desk. I work in a semiconductor fab and the overhead lights have UV filters on them to protect the wafers during the photolithography process. This makes the ambient light look very yellow. The S1RIIās cool white low CRI emitter looks positively horrid in these lighting conditions, so I decided to swap it.
I swapped in a 3000K 90+ CRI XM-L2 (XMLBWT-00-0000-000UT20E7) and was very pleased and surprised to see that this is one of the most beautifully tinted emitters Iāve seen. I measured it with a color meter and the tint measures almost exactly the same as a sw45k. I wasnāt expecting that but it looks absolutely lovely. I want to order a few more but Iām afraid theyāll end up being from a different tint bin.
Rayoui, where did you get that emitter and when? Mouser? Interested as I have a few lights with picky reflectors that only seen to like doomed XML2sā¦ never found a non-80/85cri tint I liked in this emitterā¦ found the answer in another thread.
And I did some stuff as well. Modded my FW3A with an S21A reflector that I machined down to clearance the head. Iāve been trying to source one of these reflectors for so long and finally broke down and bought a host from MTN. Turns out I really like the s21a as well, but itās going to turn into a long runtime LH351d triple/quad soon enough.
HB4 is above the BBL. No wonder why itās so green. KD used to sell a HD2 bin that was somewhat rosy. I was assuming it was the HD2 bin because itās more popular so I was surprised how the XM-L2 appeared that much rosier.
Even without comparing it next to another light, this particular XM is one of the pinkest LEDs Iāve seen. It measures about the same tint as my sw45k lights. I can take a comparison photo with some slightly rosy XP-L HI in 3000K when I get home from work.
I had a nice project in mind today, hotrodding a ToolAA 2.0 with a 15mm BLF-A6 driver and LH351D. But instead I spent an hour getting the pill screwed out, with brute force, and heatinh the head up with a blowtorch. While applying more and more force and heat, I first broke out the stock driver, then damaged the led shelf, then after a particularly intense heating session, the reflector coating started peeling. The pill never moved.
So that was one ToolAA down, a very rare occasion that I was not able to get a glued part loose. (this used to be a smooth reflector)
Using Aluminized Copper Reflectors as Secondary Heatsinks
Was wondering why aluminized copper reflectors are always thermally isolated from the emitter star, when their composition and construction might so conveniently lend them to use as secondary heatsinks. Yeah the base gasket does help keep the reflector centered correctly around the emitter and isolates it electrically, but the lamp barrel holds it in place anyway and on a large star with + and - solder points nearer to the starās edges risk of contact with the reflector is basically nonexistent. Thinking if the gasket is replaced with a well trimmed thermal pad and the reflector rim is similarly treated with paste, then heat from the emitter could travel unimpeded through the reflector all the way to end of the lamp barrel and into the bezel.
Anyway as proof-of concept unscrewed the bezel on a Sofrin SP33 V3.0 and removed the reflector and base gasket from the lamp body. Next (because my .5mm thermal pads have not yet arrived) applied some no-name thermal grease to both the base and rim of the reflector, lowered the lamp body back down around it, then flipped everything back up. Before rescrewing the bezel with its O-rings and cover glass, fired up the Sofirn on Turbo to see if I could feel any heat in the reflector this way. And boy did it get hot! So screwed everything back in place and let the flashlight cool down against the window while readying my second SP33 for comparison. Turned both units on in Turbo simultaneously while clasping them in two hands. Thermally modified Sofirn got so hot around the bezel I couldnāt hold it long. Unmodified unit got hot too but not as painfully so. Thus I declare the experiment a success.
Now, none of the reflectorized flashlights or bike lights in my possession have any problem whatsoever with thermal regulation/step down, so this mod is not all that useful to me. Then again my Kaidomain BL70S XHP70.2 4000K bike light doesnāt get hot at all on its highest setting of 3000lm ā but maybe it should? So once I get the .5mm thermal pads will see if they make any difference with thermal transfer in that lamp. JKK36R has similar build so might be useful there too (though Iāve never used turbo on that flashlight for more than a couple of minutes, out in the cold.)
Yes, this is a significant untapped source of thermal capacity. To my knowledge Armytek does it already but I havenāt seen that elsewhereā¦until todayā¦thank you for sharing.
Thanks for the heads up!
