I know, right? I discovered from mixing bulbs that 3500K is the sweet spot.
You can do this too by using both 3000K and 4000K in the same fixture. The biggest downside is that the fixture looks odd when you look at it. If only one bulb type could achieve 3500K…
It’s definitely possible as there are a number of 3500K LEDs, especially those with high CRI and/or “human-centric” SPDs. So it could become a thing. We are listening!
That would be awesome. Just be sure you beat the Hyperikon brand on price or quality:
Date Saved,9/19/2019 2:05:11 PM
Title,HYPERIKON_01_2887K
Measuring Mode,Ambient
Color Space / White Point,HSI,D65
CCT [K],2887
⊿uv,–0.0009
Illuminance [lx],1600
Illuminance [fc],149
Reference CCT [K],5500
LB Index [MK⁻¹],–165
LB Camera Filter,80A, 82B
LB Lighting Filter,R3203 3/4 CTB, R3204 1/2 CTB
CC Index,0.1G
CC#,0.2G
CC Camera Filter,CC025G
CC Lighting Filter,——-
CRI Ra,93.0
CRI R1,95.0
CRI R2,99.6
CRI R3,96.0
CRI R4,92.8
CRI R5,95.0
CRI R6,95.9
CRI R7,89.3
CRI R8,80.2
CRI R9,59.3
CRI R10,98.8
CRI R11,94.9
CRI R12,84.1
CRI R13,96.9
CRI R14,98.7
CRI R15,90.2
TM-30-18 Rf,90
TM-30-18 Rg,96
SSIt,83
SSId,52
SSI1,—-
SSI2,—-
TLCI,91
TLMF,—-
CIE1931 x,0.4438
CIE1931 y,0.4039
Hue,33deg
Saturation,78%
I am eagerly waiting for this to happen :partying_face:
For this, I could imagine 2000 lumens ceiling bulb version as well, and maybe 1300 and 800 lumens for smaller spaces to be illuminated.
Additionally, many of the 95-ish CRI LED light sources still have a mild to moderate gap in the cyan part of the spectrum. If a phosphorus compound set could be tuned to diminish this gap, that would be awesome.
I hope it happens too, I like the bedtime bulb focus on quality. If they made a 3500K bulb with good CRI I would pay good for that.
Unfortunately making bulbs better CRI and brighter at the same time isn’t going to happen with current tech. The more you fiddle with the spectrum, the less efficient the bulb becomes. That makes it run hotter and dimmer.
Hyperikon’s Amazon page is filled with pictures of lights that have melted components or nearly burnt bases, so I would assume “quality” is the direction they would be going for given the price range and niche of this bulb.
Source? I see a 4.2 star product with 2053 reviews and only three people that posted pics of damaged bulbs over all the years on amazon. I’m a happy customer too.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0779CDXXT/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
Interesting, must be a different product listing or they “cleaned up” their reviews like so many products on Amazon do.
I really wanted to pick some up a few months ago but the first couple pages of reviews I saw were all negative with many pics of discolored/melted bases.
On the other hand maybe they have improved their heat sinks?
The product page looks the same as I recall it 1 year ago when I bought my first Hyperikon. They do sell bulbs in different form factors. Maybe you were looking at a different model. Perhaps with a small form factor and high power?
Thanks to Greg Yeutter (@yeutterg) for sending me a free Bedtime Bulb for testing the output fluctuation issue! I have no advanced measuring equipment with logging capabilities, so I took a video of a white wall and sped it up ten times to make any fluctuations more visible.
This video captures eight minutes of the Bedtime LED Bulb with fixed camera settings, played back at 10x speed. Included is the view at a multimeter measuring the AC mains voltage which varied between 235 V to 237 V. This is for Celle, Germany.
During the test there was no visible fluctuation of the light output and I couldn’t notice it in this sped up video.
Overall the bulb looks good, but I prefer a color temperature of around 3500 K. I’m not a follower of the anti blue light conspiracy, but love high CRI and a variation of color temperature for different moods. If you don’t mind the 2200 K of this light, the spectrum looks really nice (thanks @maukka). The output is too low for productive use, but I think this makes a really great bedside light (as intended!).
The only issue I’ve found is the sensitivity to static electricity. Just pulling off the bubble wrap was enough to light up the LED filaments! Touching and slightly rubbing the clear part of the bulb with the bubble wrap caused the light to flicker, without even touching the metal contacts.
Thanks for the test! I’ll take my bulbs to a couple different locations and check the behavior.
Looks pretty good SammysHP. There is a flicker at 13.5 seconds, but it may just be a video compression issue.
Thanks all for the feedback on future designs. We are definitely considering making general purpose bulbs with a focus on quality of light, mostly targeted at lighting designers but potentially also for sale to consumers. Probably the closest comparable today would be Soraa’s line of bulbs, but with some different design decisions. One of the people on the IES Color Committee (who are responsible for TM-30) has been begging me for this.
I also really appreciate all your help with the testing of brightness fluctuations. I hope you can understand that I’m in a bit of a vulnerable position, but this is the power of the internet, being able to test for a defect all across Europe in a matter of days. So far, Maukka is the only person to experience this, but we haven’t made a conclusion on what to do just yet. We may limit sales in regions where this is a known issue until we ship the product with a new power supply.
I just checked out Soraa’s bulb. The flashy webpage and professional marketing had me excited, until I saw the spectrum distribution and TM-30 data on the spec sheet. Bummer.
If you do start making a new lighting product, I actually think BLF might not be a bad launchpad. The feedback from some of us with spectrometers and experience will be far more insightful than the average Amazon customer that only has experience with hateful 1-star feedback that simply reads “JUNK!” or “DO NOT BUY!”.
give me results please. of SORAA.
I don’t own any Soraa, but from what I see in their datasheet, their spectrum is quite wobbly, and this is verified in their TM-30 as under-saturation and tint shift.
but they call it healthy. It is for eyes, not for colors.
Yeah, the compression is pretty bad. Tomorrow I can check the original footage and also export the mean brightness of each frame.
Ah, you clicked on “SORAA HEALTHY A19/A60”. I clicked on “SORAA VIVID A19/A60”. They don’t even have the balls to post color rendering data for that “healthy” bulb, other than to say CRI=80 R9=90. I would never buy a bulb with no blue rendering. If I want less blue light in my life, I will dim the lights.
Nothing personal just business :money_mouth_face: