Well if you do, there will be data to back up the claim 
When I was talking about Soraa as a comparable for building high-CRI (etc.) bulbs, I was really referring to the Vivid line.
But since Soraa Healthy is more comparable to BB, of course I have tested it. It's a cool idea and technology, but I don't agree with their approach. Especially because it ignores the "green" half of melanopic light.
Basically, they eliminate all blue light, but green is just as stimulating from a melanopic/circadian perspective. Read more here.
Bedtime Bulb still has a slightly lower melanopic input despite having blue, and with far superior color quality.
Here are the specs I have on Soraa Healthy, taken with my UPRtek CV600. I heard they may have tweaked it slightly, but even in this version, CRI is worse than advertised:
Spectrum. Note that the gray hump is the full melanopic area spanning blue and green, not just the "blue" hump that Soraa shows in their graphics:
Holy he, that’s 10 MacAdams tints from BBL/White!
And yea, CRI 74 with R12=9, eesh.
You already have a bedtime bulb, why not make this the best daytime bulb and not worry about melanin suppression?
Not sure I understand the question.
BB is a special-purpose product focused on a consumer sales channel. High-CRI general-purpose lighting will mostly sell in the B2B sales channel. Not saying consumers won’t buy it, but it’s much less differentiated from a consumer marketing perspective.
I guess I just don’t see a use case for a 3500K bulb with no blue or green color rendering.
If you made a high CRI 3500K bulb, that would be differentiated, but it wouldn’t take much investment for the other high CRI players in the market to adjust their spectrum to 3500K. I can’t really recommend putting in the effort if that’s the case.
Oh I see. To be clear, we intend to only make the Bedtime Bulb products in a low CCT, as that is part of what most people find pleasing at night.
The general purpose bulbs wouldn’t have melanopic reduction most likely. Although we may consider some of the new “flat” SPDs (in the style of Seoul SunLike).
Hey! I tested them last night and I like them very much, the tint is very nice and cozy, they replaced my 2200K edison led bulbs in my bedroom :+1:
There was no visible fluctuation but my house is not that old (1881) so… I can’t speak for the others… 
overall i’m happy with my purchase and I hope they last for years BUT I would love to have a 60w equivalent version or even 80-100 for my living room :sunglasses:
Cool, thanks again! Enjoy, and let me know if you have any more feedback after continued use.
This is interesting guys. It seems ANSI has a C78.376-2014 standard that accepts 3500K as the neutral. I always thought it was odd to call 4000k neutral, as it looks cool to me. It seems this standard lines up with our opinions.
https://www.nema.org/Standards/ComplimentaryDocuments/C78-376-2014-Contents-and-Scope.pdf
It’s interesting for sure, but many (most?) manufacturers still define their spec sheets based on a 3000 K nominal. Despite this, a lot of lighting designers like 3500 or 4000 K.
I think our natural tendency toward round numbers is to blame. I believe if 3500 were a round number, and the next increments were 2500 or 4500 there would never have been any doubt.
since we have read that the bulbs have a flicker problem in USA, and maukka reports they also have a flicker problem in Finland
where in the world are you located?
you did what kind of test?
did you look through a camera, was there any banding?
did you test for flicker, some other way?
Im from canada, I just leave the light on for an hour or two at night before I sleep, no camera just my eyes
Visible brightness fluctuations are rarely an issue in the US. Trust me, we would know about it if it was a widespread issue (we’ve sold tens of thousands of bulbs).
We are testing with ~15 people now across Europe to see if it is repeatable. We are only asking them to observe if there is a visible change.
By the way, the camera banding test is not a very good indication of flicker. My phone camera (Google Pixel 3) will pick up even 2% flicker and make it look like we’re at a disco. Other flagship phones appear to have the same “issue.”
Here are some numbers from the original footage of my video.
First I exported one frame every second:
ffmpeg -i 00000.MTS -vf fps=1,scale=640:480 frames/%05d.png
Then I took the average brightness of each exported frame:
for x in frames/*.png; do convert $x -colorspace gray -format "%[fx:100*mean]\n" info: >> log.csv; done
This is the result:
There are some fluctuations. Not sure if they correlate with the mains voltage, too lazy to OCR the text from the multimeter.
Oh, this doesn’t tell us if there’s a flaw in my setup. But random noise looks different.
edit: I manually compared the brightness and the mains voltage and both correlate with each other more or less. I think this is very similar to the result from maukka.
Thanks for that test. It’s very helpful.
If I’m understanding the graph, the camera is picking up minor brightness fluctuations of around 1% (from a trough of ~52.7% to a peak of ~53.7%). You also notice some slight visual changes in the output just by observing. Is that correct?
I don’t think the absolute values of the scale mean anything (although it is in percent, but percent of what?). The changes are very hard to notice and I think it depends on the situation and the observer if it is noticed at all.
IMHO the point is that the Badtime Bedtime Bulb has a behavior that is not found in other bulbs.
OK, thanks for the clarification. And it may well be a “badtime” bulb in this instance!
Oops. :person_facepalming: