“REVIEW”: Skilhunt M200 [2019] - 1x18650/2xCR123a – 5000K High CRI – 1100 Lumens – Configurable UI [PIC HEAVY]

Correction: the “random round piece of rubber” that I mentioned above is actually a replacement to the magnet in the tailcap.
I didn’t thought about that until I saw Narmattau’s review of the new Skilhunt H04 .

BTW, the H04 headlamp also has this nice configurable UI! :+1:

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Very nice review, MascaratumB. :+1: Certainly an impressive flashlight in many respects. The shiny blue accents remind me a lot of OLIGHT. Also some design cues taken from that brand. But I prefer Skilhunt’s magnetic charging port. If I didn’t already have 3 different single 18650 flashlights, I would buy this brand new. I may try to pick up a used one cheaper a year from now.

By the way, you have a typo. You wrote “THE FASHLIGHT” after the Packaging photos section . Missing the “L”

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Nice review MascaratumB, and nice photos as always :smiley:

I have M200 v1.0, very nice form factor indeed. Just found out from your review that this v2.0 uses Samsung LH351D.
I have replaced the emitter in my M200 with XP-L HI 5A2 4000K, the beam is sharper with nice tint and more comfortable on the eyes.


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Thanks for your words xevious :wink:
Yup, this surely reminds Olight in many aspects, but the UI in this light is a step further! I hope it is as reliable as Olight throughout the time too :wink:

One thing I am noticing more is some yellowish corona that I will solve with some DC-Fix and pronto, the light will be perfect for EDC too :slight_smile:

And thanks for poiting the L missing , I’ve corrected it :wink:

Hey Ryley,thanks for looking and for your words :wink:
Never been in contact with yhe previous version, but both seem pretty good despite the different appearance!

Hum, the beam with that Led is surely nice, I like the XP-L HI in warm white :wink:

I am willing to make a small test to show the CRI of this light but didn’t have the conditions before! Maybe later I can do it !

Thanks again and enjoy your light too :slight_smile:

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Some due night beamshots of the Skilhunt M200.
I was using Group Mode B (L2 - M2 - H2 - T2) and Turbo 1 (T1) [Specs Lumens: 0.5 - 25 - 150 - 535 - 1000]

The flashlight provides good ilumination above 70m.

I also noticed that using a protected battery created some “flickering” when accessing T1. I immediatly started using an unprotected Sony VTC6 (High-Drain) and I noticed that the output increased on T1 and also that flickering stopped.

I don’t know if this is registered in all flashlights, but it justifies what manufacturer says: “use high drain cells”!



And this is some attempt to make a CRI Comparison between the Skilhunt M200 and other flashlights with High CRI and non High CRI Leds.

It is probable that I fail with this test, but…bear with me, I was never good at these :stuck_out_tongue:

Major diferences are shown in the orange more than on the red…

HIGH CRI
Wuben TO50R (5000K Samsung LH351D, quad optic) >>>>> Wuben T046R (5000K XP-G3, triple optic) >>>>> H-C 348 (5000K Nichia NVSW219BT, OP reflector)

Skilhunt M200 (5000K Samsung Lh351D, SMO/UDOC reflector)

NON HIGH CRI (~70CRI)
FW3A (5000K XP-L HI 3D, Triple Optic) >>>>> Skilhunt M150 (5000K Luxeon V2, OP reflector)

Thanks for looking!
:+1:

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Thanks for the review. The disadvantages can be considered a quick reset of brightness 1000Lm-3 minutes to 535Lm (50%)

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You’re welcome. I agree, the UI does seem more advanced than Olight. Beam shots look decent from your photos. Is the lens fully accessible so you can apply the DC-Fix on the inside of the lens?

I would like to get this light eventually, although I think I might go with the Lumintop EDC18 first. Something about that design really appeals to me. For roughly the same price to get Anduril UI is hard to resist!

Of course with both of these models, the step down from Turbo is fairly quick. But that’s not the real intention behind these lights—long term throwing. Probably better off with an Astrolux MF01S for that.

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Thank you :wink:
Well, if this M200 works as the new Skilhunt H04 Headlamp, the turbo is timed and not heat-controled. Narmattaru reviewed that headlamp and showed that after that timed stepdown the turbo could be attained again for the same “cycle”.

He pointed that this could be a disadvantage both for the light (due to accumulated heat) and the battery. Also for that reason, it is better to use a high-drain cell!

Hum, I didn’t unscrew the bezel, but I suspect that this is similar to the M150 and other lights, so the bezel is probably easy to unscrew to access the lens.

But DC-fix can also be applicated without removint the lens, although it is not the best solution, eventually.

Yes, I agree, this is not a light to be held indefinitely on high, so the timed stepdowns are a way to cool it down…despite what I mentioned above about “restarting” the cycle.

About the EDC18, I guess it is a little more larger than this. This light is a good light for backpacking due to its rechargeability capacity, the lightweight and compact form.
Also, it seems to be well regulated for long runtimes on the lower modes. Definitely a light I would take on a trip!

The EDC18…is only missing the shorty tube and the aux leds to be a best seller :stuck_out_tongue:

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If the turbo is timed and not heat controlled, wondering why there’s NTC in the led mpcb… this is on my M200 v1.0 (before the led swap)


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Today I decided to open the bezel of my Skilhunt M200 and contrarily to what I mentioned above, and also corroborating what Ryley posted above, the MCPCB of this flashlight is round and has a bunch of wires connected to it.

Narmattaru reviewed this light and confirms that turbo is timed, not heat controlled.

I also decided to mod this light to end the slight tint shift that this light has. So, I opted to use a pebbled TIR that I had laying arond , instead of using DC-Fix.
I kept the black gasket around the LED, and I put a black o-ring a between the TIR and the bezel (it has a blue one originally, but it was causing some blueish shift in the beam with the TIR).
Also, I am not using the glass lens, there was no space for it with the TIR.

Here is how the beam looks with the TIR:

And this is a comparison with:
a) Convoy S2, 5000K Nichia, OP reflector >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> b) Wuben TO50R, 4 x LH351D, quad TIR optic

It has, obviously, less throw, less intensity, it is floodier, but has no artifacts on the beam!

You know, I hate these reviews.

I really didn’t need to add another light to my wishlist. EDC’s always get priority, too. So this could soon be en route…

Thanks?

(Seriously though, great review! Great looking light and form factor!)

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Thanks for confirming this. Apparently v1.0 and v2.0 share the same internal parts.

Slightly slimmer than FW1A :wink:

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I have two questions/concerns about this light. Unfortunately, these are the ever-so-important details of lights that get MISSED ALL THE TIME! (Can you sense my frustration?) lol

1. How’s the switch actuation/feel? And resistance to accidental activation? How about ease of locating switch by feel?

2. The dang pocket clip! Can the tube be reversed? What are the diameter and width of the rear groove?

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For a 40$ there is no better EDC imho. Form factor, efficient buck driver, hi-cri LED option ,charger, variety of TIR optic for modding.

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Ahah, thanks :wink:
Your wallet won’t thank you, probably, but your EDC kit surely will :wink: Ehehe!

Thanks for the comparison :wink:
It would also be nice to have an Olight S2R (I or II) to compare it with this light, as both have the same form factor, side switch and all that.

Answering you, by parts :wink:
1)
a) the switch is not as resistant as the Emisar D4 or the Olight M2R Warrior, or even the Wuben TO50R or TO46R. Both these have rubber caps over the switch so this may be a factor in resistance. You still need to press it slightly to activate, but it doesn’t need a lot of strength.

b) well, accidental activation is something that I didn’t experience because I normally use it locked, so it didn’t turn ON in the pocket. BUT, in case you use it loose in the pocket with other stuff, it may happen. If clipped to the pocket, or loose without other stuff, that possibility will probably decrease

c) the design of this light is very nice in terms of location. If you are using it with index and thumb you’ll find out that having the button up or down won’t necessarily matter because you’ll be able to activate it with whatever finger you have on it :wink: Also, I am using mine with the pocket clip in the opposite direction of the button, so whenever I grab the light, I’ll know where the button is. But even without that, you’ll be able to touch the switch and activate it well due to the shape of the head.

Check this photo I put above:

2) About the pocket clip and tube…as the tube is glued, I didn’t mess with it. However, looking at the bottom end threads, it doesn’t seem to me that it can be reversed.
The rear groove has, more or less, 2mm in height and the diameter is similar to the one in the head, 20.3mm:
!https://i.imgur.com/MUqIYRP.jpg !

Hope this helps.

BTW, due to the tension created by the pocket clip, it cannot be used “cover” the switch to hinder accidental activation. The clip presses the switch activating it!

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MascaratumB thank you very much! I appreciate your thorough response.

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You’re welcome :wink:
Hope it helped :wink:

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Helpful indeed!

One more question, what diffuser cap are you using in your UI videos?

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Nice :wink:

The diffuser is the one of the Wuben E05, that fits several lights, including this one (although I stretched it a bit :stuck_out_tongue: )

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I have the same M200 with the LH351 emitter. My beam is quite yellow/green with tint shift to purple. Did yours look like that before the TIR? Without changing the lens, is my best bet a minus green filter or DC fix? The LH351 5000k looks greener in the M200 than the 4000k SST-20 in my Convoy S2+. Pretty bad. Also, I have some 219B R9080 emitters in 4000k. How tough would a swap be and are they compatible?

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