[ Lume1-FW3X: Constant Current Buck-Boost & FET Driver with Anduril + RGB Aux ] - For Sale Now!

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KevinZA1988
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I accidentally stuffed 1 of my FW3A’s drivers. This is exactly the replacement driver it needs. And maybe even the rest of my shelf queen FW lights… Great work loneoceans!

Armytek Prime C1 Pro, Armytek Prime C2 Pro, Armytek Tiara C1 Pro, Astrolux MF01 Mini, BLF Q8, BLF A6, BLF FW1A, BLF FW3A, BLF FW3C, BLF LT1, Convoy L6, Convoy C8+ , Convoy S3, Convoy M21A, Convoy S11, Emisar D4, Fireflies E07, Jaxman E2L, Lumintop EDC18, Manta Ray C8.2 long version, Olight S1R Baton II special edition series, S2R Baton II, Nitecore HC65, Olight H1R Nova.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/JaJaDv4V838AEJf39

clientequator
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Wow another new driver from loneoceans! This one looks very nice, I like the clean design. I wish it is complete soon! Unfortunately I do not have fw3 light yet, but may have to buy one. Do you think it make sense for non-esiwtch flashlight also?

okwchin
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I am so excited to see this board! It will deal with my biggest wish for the FW3A – replacing the linear topology with a buck boost which will improve the efficiency of the light at the most commonly used power levels!
Secondly, aux LED support is awesome!

Keep up the good work!

"like everyone else - I’m looking for my next “last” flashlight" -  ohnonothimagain

Thro
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definitely interested in a few of these Thumbs Up

loneoceans
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Hello all,

Just a quick progress update. I'm happy to say that we have first light with the lume1 driver. 

For the flashlight, I used a FW3C bead-blasted host previously purchased from Nealsgadgets. The stock 1+7+FET driver was removed from the flashlight. This is quite easy, but does require desoldering wires from the LED MCPCB first. After that, it's a simple procedure with no glue involved. 

The lume1 driver was then dropped into place and installed. As a quick note, the FW3 flashlight has a small screw hole drilled through the MCPCB shelf, which acts as a locating pin for the LED MCPCB to prevent it from rotating when the top cover is screwed on. This screw hole had a few sharp edges on the driver side, which I deburred away. 

I think this PCB colourway works quite well with the FW3C. The lume1 driver fits! No issues with the inductor hitting the driver cavity, as designed. Programming was done using a HQ pogopin which I put together myself, and an AVRISP2. You can obviously use whatever programmer you want.

The original emitters were SST-20 4000K 90CRI. They seem to be quite popular, but I never really liked the tint of the SST20s, since they are very green especially at the lower power levels, and never really getting better unless driven at Turbo.

I thought this would be a good opportunity to use some of the fairly rare but extremely nice Nichia 219B 9080 4500K 'rose tint' LEDs I had in the past. These were reflowed onto the original MCPCB. The thermal paste was cleaned up and replaced with Arctic Silver 5. Finally, a TurboGlow glow gasket was added between the optic and the LEDs, just for fun. 

Fun Question - if you had to build your own flashlight with this driver, which LED would you choose and why?

But does it work?

I'm happy to say that it does! 

 

Anduril Firmware

With the support from ToyKeeper, I was able to get Anduril working on this flashlight. Fortunately ToyKeeper had already done a massive amount of work with Anduril and it had all sorts of capabilities built in to allow easy support of this driver. Since I work on a Windows machine, I used Atmel Studio for the firmware builds and flashing - I had a few requests about this surprisingly, so I thought it would be better to get something going with Atmel Studio, since most people don't have a unix environment. 

There's still a little bit of work left to do for me to evaluate all functionalities of Anduril, but all the basics are working, including:

  • Ramping functionality (in this case, 1024 levels of brightness with 10-bit PWM, similar to Noctigon K1), all regulated with Buck Boost up to 3A
  • Turbo with FET 
  • RGB aux LEDs verified working (on my dev board; the FW3x does not have a LED aux board for it, yet!)
  • Standard strobe modes all working (candlelight, bicycle, party, tactical, and thunderstorm)
  • Utility functions working (e.g. voltage reading, lockout modes, aux LED control etc)
  • [Update: External temperature sensor is now working and much more accurate, likely no user calibration required]

There are still some functions on the lume1 board not taken advantage of yet including:

  • 4 solder jumper pads are connected to MCU but no firmware written to take advantage of them yet

Once most of the bugs are sorted out, the firmware will be posted up on TK's repository. 

Finally, I took a quick video to illustrate some of the basic functionalities so far:

 

Please keep in mind that this is a video of preliminary hardware and firmwareand work on it is still in progress

Regardless, this one is shaping up to be my new go-to flashlight already. It's not as bright as my GXB drivers but I think it's a lot more useful! I'm even thinking of swapping the battery out for a Samsung 35E for longer runtimes since the point of this driver is to be more efficienct. I'm also glad to say that there isn't any issue with noise from the switching regulator at all power levels. And finally, it's not obvious in the video but the Nichia 219B tint is absolutely beautiful, redder than blackbody!

Hopefully this will be a driver which people will find useful. sealed Feedback, comments and suggestions much welcomed. 

Thanks for reading.

www.loneoceans.com/labs/

lume1 - Constant Current BuckBoost + FET Anduril Driver for FW3x
High Power Boost Drivers - GXB100 100W GAN FET Driver // GXB172 50W 17mm Driver
GXF22 - CC+FET for Emisar D4 // GFS16 - 1milliOhm FET Switch System // Older: GXB17 & GXB20

KevinZA1988
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Excellent! Will the external temp sensing be compatible with the MCPCB’s FROM led4power.com?

Armytek Prime C1 Pro, Armytek Prime C2 Pro, Armytek Tiara C1 Pro, Astrolux MF01 Mini, BLF Q8, BLF A6, BLF FW1A, BLF FW3A, BLF FW3C, BLF LT1, Convoy L6, Convoy C8+ , Convoy S3, Convoy M21A, Convoy S11, Emisar D4, Fireflies E07, Jaxman E2L, Lumintop EDC18, Manta Ray C8.2 long version, Olight S1R Baton II special edition series, S2R Baton II, Nitecore HC65, Olight H1R Nova.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/JaJaDv4V838AEJf39

JaredM
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Can’t wait for this already!! Most exciting thing since the FW3A in the first place. This is really the only thing the light was badly missing from the beginning (an efficient driver esp for low Vf emitters). I have so many plans for this already!!

It might be a silly thing but the single sided feature with programming pins REALLY satisfies my OCD.

loneoceans
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KevinZA1988 wrote:
Excellent! Will the external temp sensing be compatible with the MCPCB's FROM led4power.com?

I'm not familiar with how the temperature sensor on the led4power boards are like (looks like just an NTC), so the likely answer is no. There is an external more accurate temperature sensor on the lume1 driver board, which also has a better physical thermal path on the PCB - its should provide a more accurate temperature reading than the internal MCU one. Just need to tweak the firmware to support this since it's simply an ADC read + some math. However, as is, it'll work just as well as existing drivers, which honestly seems good enough. Smile 

 

JaredM wrote:
Can't wait for this already!! Most exciting thing since the FW3A in the first place. This is really the only thing the light was badly missing from the beginning (an efficient driver esp for low Vf emitters). I have so many plans for this already!! It might be a silly thing but the single sided feature with programming pins REALLY satisfies my OCD.

Thanks! I placed all the components on one side to simplify things and it also makes PCB assembly costs cheaper too. 

www.loneoceans.com/labs/

lume1 - Constant Current BuckBoost + FET Anduril Driver for FW3x
High Power Boost Drivers - GXB100 100W GAN FET Driver // GXB172 50W 17mm Driver
GXF22 - CC+FET for Emisar D4 // GFS16 - 1milliOhm FET Switch System // Older: GXB17 & GXB20

JaredM
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And by the way.. The series sense resistor I personally find a bit of a feature to this drivers ideal application, which is allowing full FET power with super low Vf LEDs. I want to run an E21A/E17A quad under a TIR, so this helps me there.

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Your an amazing person loneoceans. Nice work. Beer

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

M4D M4X
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great job!

 

 all new deals are also posted here: deals.m4dm4x.com
if you do not find what you are looking for :

ask MARTIN@M4DM4X.COM - i will save you money!

trakcon
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Beautifully done, loneoceans. Very nice. I almost wish the host was transparent so the driver could be seen from the outside.

G0OSE
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Well done, maybe I will have aux leds in mine one day after all!

iamlucky13
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loneoceans wrote:

Fun Question – if you had to build your own flashlight with this driver, which LED would you choose and why?

I haven’t bought an FW3A yet, but this driver further increases the temptation to do so. I actually have several 4000K LH351D’s on hand specifically to dedome and put in an FW3A, although I’m not 100% committed to that plan.

I also could go either with 219B’s or perhaps if I were ambitious, disable the FET in the firmware and use E21A’s.

I have a pair of Convoy S2+ lights I’d also like to upgrade from Qlite drivers to a buck driver with Bistro. If Anduril can run on your design, Bistro should be adaptable, as well.

WTF
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Tom E wrote:

This is look’n real good! Sorry if I missed this, but does it fully support smooth ramping? We usually use a 150 level table. If I understand this, the first 3 amps is regulated, then after that the FET kicks in. This is similar to how we treat a bank of 7135’s. The linear regulated driver in the new Noctigon K1 works similar, from what I understand. Up til now, I don’t think TK released any of the 1634 Anduril config files. All I know of is 2 Anduril 1634 lights – the D4SV2 and the K1.


Since it’s a OSHPark design, I’m hoping we can build up our own, but that depends maybe on how small you are going with parts. Think there are some 0402’s there. Not sure what the FW3A driver size is, but scaling up the size should be easy – just keep the parts as-is and expand the outer space – we’ve done this before.


So are you planning on developing the hwdef and cfg files for Anduril?

This looks super simple to assemble compared to the GXB172. I ended up making a 18650 powered vacuum pen using a cheap motor/pump,silicone vacumn hose and a footswitch from Bangood to deal with the 402’s and temp sensor on it. Have a small syringe and hose dedicated to slurping up excess solder paste as well. Now I use it on everything, fet + drivers are so simple now.

Any chance you will be modifying Narsil to work with this driver? The internal temp sensor is good enough for me. I can see a lot of uses for this driver and modifying Anduril is way beyond me.

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This is really exciting. The only drawback with the FW3A and similar flashlights with linear driver is the poor efficiency. With this buck boost constant curent regulated driver that problem will be solved and the FW3A will become a real EDC tool and not just a toy. I wish Lumintop would sell a special batch with your driver.

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iamlucky13 wrote:
loneoceans wrote:

Fun Question – if you had to build your own flashlight with this driver, which LED would you choose and why?

I haven’t bought an FW3A yet, but this driver further increases the temptation to do so. I actually have several 4000K LH351D’s on hand specifically to dedome and put in an FW3A, although I’m not 100% committed to that plan.

I also could go either with 219B’s or perhaps if I were ambitious, disable the FET in the firmware and use E21A’s.

I have a pair of Convoy S2+ lights I’d also like to upgrade from Qlite drivers to a buck driver with Bistro. If Anduril can run on your design, Bistro should be adaptable, as well.


Please note that so far none of the loneoceans driver was available for sale. Though there’s hope it will change myself I wouldn’t purchase a light before that happens.
icpart
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Another great peace of work from you loneoceans Thumbs Up . I have one simple question to that driver. Is that will be fully open source or only partial of it? I mean if you will share whole PCB project with source files with full schematic or only gerber files like in anothers of your projects.
Also the best improve over firmware for Anduril is the support of 1024 PWM levels compared to 255 which don’t allow us to use fine steps especially at low modes for LED current regulation in one channel driver.

WTF
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Excellent work loneoceans. Coming from the GXB172 its hard to believe everything fits on one side of the board with so much space left over.

This driver has so many possibilities beyond the FW3A. Do you think future versions could have pads for Bat+, Bat- and an E-switch on the component side of the board?

Will there be a version of Anduril available that does not use the direct drive fet?

Could you release your preliminary firmware? A few simple modes work best in some applications.

A few people have been asking about using clicky switch firmware with this driver although it would require significant modifications to Bistro and Ramping IOS. Would the input capacitor be able to be used as an off time capacitor?

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I have a question: If the IC (I assume it’s a TPS63020) boosts voltage to let’s say 5V, and your battery is 3V, how do you avoid all the current flowing through the p-fet body diode back to the battery?

icpart
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Schoki wrote:
I have a question: If the IC (I assume it’s a TPS63020) boosts voltage to let’s say 5V, and your battery is 3V, how do you avoid all the current flowing through the p-fet body diode back to the battery?
Presume he used p mosfet as load switch: http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/2049687.pdf
So if it is will be trully open source hardware that will be great. We can improve it or port to another flashlight very easy.
iamlucky13
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Agro wrote:
iamlucky13 wrote:
loneoceans wrote:

Fun Question – if you had to build your own flashlight with this driver, which LED would you choose and why?

I haven’t bought an FW3A yet, but this driver further increases the temptation to do so. I actually have several 4000K LH351D’s on hand specifically to dedome and put in an FW3A, although I’m not 100% committed to that plan.

I also could go either with 219B’s or perhaps if I were ambitious, disable the FET in the firmware and use E21A’s.

I have a pair of Convoy S2+ lights I’d also like to upgrade from Qlite drivers to a buck driver with Bistro. If Anduril can run on your design, Bistro should be adaptable, as well.


Please note that so far none of the loneoceans driver was available for sale. Though there’s hope it will change myself I wouldn’t purchase a light before that happens.

Understand, and thanks for checking. I guess there is no service equivalent to Oshpark for PCB assembly in small quantities?

I’ll be following this thread to see if a perhaps a group buy is ever possible.

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icpart wrote:
Presume he used p mosfet as load switch: http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/2049687.pdf
So if it is will be trully open source hardware that will be great. We can improve it or port to another flashlight very easy.

I know he’s using a p-fet. I worked on something similar and used a p-fet as well. I ran into the problem that the current of the boosted voltage goes through the body diode back to the cell, rather than through the led. I found a solution to that, but I can’t see how he is doing it on his board.
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Hello all, thanks for the kind words everyone! cool

Regarding the firmware, I’ve got the external temperature sensor to work and it’s a fair bit more accurate out of the box. In fact, I believe I have tested all the features of Anduril as much as possible (though I probably missed out something!), and they all seem to be working.

Answering Tom E with some updates, yes it supports smooth ramping and looks visually identical to the stock driver (see the YouTube video of the preliminary test). I’ve completed the cfg and hwdef files for this driver. There are some very slight optional modifications I made to some fsm-__.c files which I will be documenting in detail, in order to support some extra features such as the external temperature sensor. I stuck with 150 ramp levels, but the control resolution is 10bit instead of 8bit (1023 vs 255 levels), similar to the Noctigon K1. So far, I have configured the ramp tables to have the ramp for the first 3 amps, then the FET kicks in for the double-tap-to-turbo.  Keep in mind Anduril isn’t just limited to 255 levels; it’s not difficult to change it to support 1023 levels as long as the hardware is capable. However, increasing the PWM resolution will reduce the PWM frequency, which can cause a little more visible flicker, though at 3.9kHz, I doubt it’ll be a problem for almost all use cases. I’ll put the firmware up on the TK flashlight repo. Just making sure it’s mostly free of bugs right now.

Replying WTF, for driver sales, if there’s a good response, I am actually considering having a small run of assembled boards be made, but I need to make sure it’s got the bugs worked out first. In addition, all files will be published so anyone can make their own as well if they’re interested. I'd also like to hear the reasoning for having additional B+- and ESW pads on the board - what use case are you planning for these? Finally, yes it's very easy to have a version without the FET at all. This can be done simply by either having a run of boards without the FETs installed, and/or flashing the board removing the hwdef for the FET pin. Meanwhile, firmware work is well underway - I actually found a few more small issues and have fixed them!

Next, Schoki knows exactly what’s going on! You’re correct this was something I did miss initially when designing the boards, and didn’t catch it until PCBs were fabricated; this was because in practical use of most designs, the BuckBoost is only operating in buck mode for almost the entirety of the drive range, and when it hits Boost mode, no reverse conduction occurs for my setup. Here's why: LVP cuts out at 2.8V, limiting the lower end of the Vin. For FW3x systems with a 3 LED config at 3A, Vout doesn’t get much more than 3V. Then the key is the bias voltage of the body diode (IIRC around 0.35+V) - together with the low Vfwd of the LEDs used, reverse conduction does not occur.. but just by a whisker. However, you’re absolutely right that a higher Vfwd LED with low Vbatt can start running into reverse conduction of the body diode of the pass fet. This has been fixed in Rev B which is the planned driver for a small mass-order.

As a side note, I’d like to emphasis that having a FET to drive an LED is strictly not a great ‘text-book’ idea, likewise with paralleled LEDs! LEDs are inherently negative temp-co devices meaning that Vfwd of LEDs decreases as junction temperature increases, leading to the LED consuming more and more current until failure. In practice though, with matched LEDs and with system losses, this all works.. but just keep in mind that it isn’t strictly best practice to do so.

Thanks again for your continued interest and support! 

www.loneoceans.com/labs/

lume1 - Constant Current BuckBoost + FET Anduril Driver for FW3x
High Power Boost Drivers - GXB100 100W GAN FET Driver // GXB172 50W 17mm Driver
GXF22 - CC+FET for Emisar D4 // GFS16 - 1milliOhm FET Switch System // Older: GXB17 & GXB20

JaredM
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I think we should start a sign-up google doc for these. I think the method clemence is using for this Skilhunt GB is a nice way to manage it.

And keep the discussion going folks! I love it Thumbs Up

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Thanx for the info! Oh boy, you went way deeper than what I meant, but it's all good. I think I was the one that came up with 150 levels originally for NarsilM (I could be wrong), but I only chose 150 because of the timing. With the levels changing every 16 ms, 150 levels means a full ramp takes 2.4 seconds and I thought that was just right for a light like the Q8, not too quick, not too long.

 

Just to make it clear, so this driver has buck/boost regulation up to 3 amps, and only ramps up til 3 amps? So it doesn't PWM the FET at all and turbo is assigned to max FET? If so, this is much more smoother than existing Anduril/NarsilM drivers that are FET based.

So if you adapted this design to a much larger Q8 size driver, you could use larger components that could regulate to higher amps? Not sure if you looked at options in detail yet, but might you know how high it can go keeping the cost within reason?

WTF
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The reason I’d like bat+ and bat neg on the component side of the board is that I’m planning on putting this driver in something other than a FW3A as well as making testing easier. I have some 20+ 2835 and 5730 led battery powered lights that this driver would be perfect for. The vf on the leds is high enough to make them dim before the batteries are discharged and getting rid of the blue and red blinky modes would be nice. The spring side of the driver would be facing the heat sink and spacing it up to clear the wires would push the driver into the battery compartment. I can get by without the pads, should be enough space to solder wires to the input capacitor or scratch some solder mask away in the right places.

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I’m excited.

Old Lumens Contest 2020 - Hand-made light category

ZL SC62(w) | Jaxman E2L XP-G2 5A | Purple S2+ XPL-HI U6-3A | D4 w/ Luxeon V | RRT-01 | Purple FW3A, 4000K SST20 | Baton S1
Boruit D10 w/ Quadrupel Fet+1/Anduril | EagTac D25C Ti | DQG Slim AA Ti | Jaxman E3 | UF-T1 by CRX | Olight S15 Ti | Nitecore EX11.2
L6 XHP70.2 P2 4000K FET+7135 | Jaxman M8 | MF02 | Jaxman Z1 CULNM1.TG | Blue S2+ w/ ML Special | Thrunite T10Tv2
Supfire M6 3xXHP50.2, Sofirn C8F, Unfinished: Sofirn SP70, IYP07/Tool AAA hot-rods, Jetbeam E3S
Others: Nitecore EC23 | Nebo Twyst | Streamlight ProTac 1AA | TerraLux LightStar 100

WTF
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Tom E wrote:

Thanx for the info! Oh boy, you went way deeper than what I meant, but it’s all good. I think I was the one that came up with 150 levels originally for NarsilM (I could be wrong), but I only chose 150 because of the timing. With the levels changing every 16 ms, 150 levels means a full ramp takes 2.4 seconds and I thought that was just right for a light like the Q8, not too quick, not too long.


 


Just to make it clear, so this driver has buck/boost regulation up to 3 amps, and only ramps up til 3 amps? So it doesn’t PWM the FET at all and turbo is assigned to max FET? If so, this is much more smoother than existing Anduril/NarsilM drivers that are FET based.


So if you adapted this design to a much larger Q8 size driver, you could use larger components that could regulate to higher amps? Not sure if you looked at options in detail yet, but might you know how high it can go keeping the cost within reason?

It looks like three amps is maximum output for the buck/boost controller. He could put multiple controllers on one driver but the outputs would have to be separated which would require modding the mcpcb. The other thing is the direct drive fet is a p-fet which have more on resistance than n-fets and likely a sense resistor in the circuit as well. You’d be trading off a lot of turbo output for a little more regulated run time.

Ideally loneoceans gets time to finish his 100 watt boost driver and you find a way to wire the leds 2s2p. You’d get high efficiency at low power levels and stupid amounts of output on turbo.

loneoceans
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Tom E, yes I figured the 150 levels was chosen as a generally good balance between ramp duration and ‘smoothness’. The only time when the ramp is a little less smooth can be in muggle mode where the ramp length is truncated.

The Buck Boost (at least for the FW3x board) is good up to 3 amps - mostly due to PCB constraints and to keep the design cost down. The FET control pin can also be PWMed, so it’s pretty easy to configure the ramp files to extend the ramp to PWM the FET as well. However, the thing about the FET drive is that it’s literally unregulated. If using a combination of FET + regulated, there will be some sort of jump between maximum regulation and some sort of PWMed FET drive, which will vary depending on the LED and battery used. The same applies to 7135 + PWMed FET.

The idea of unregulated FET drive still is concerning to me from an EE point of view, so I thought it would be best to leave it as a single turbo level. Regardless, this is easily adjusted in the cfg file, so you can certainly transition from max regulated level to some sort of PWMed FET ramp. I have experimented with using a 8bit 15.6kHz PWM and a 10bit 3.9kHz PWM for the Buck Boost (and also for the FET), and I think I prefer the 10bit 3.9kHz PWM – note this does not translate to PWM for regulated output (there’s a caveat for the low moon modes but that’s a different thing), and I think 3.9kHz for most purposes is just fine (only if using FET in PWM mode). This can also be changed in the hwdef file. I’m really not sure what people will prefer, I guess.

Oh and I should mention, the Attiny needs to be able to support >8bit PWM if you want to have 10bit PWM of course... IIRC, the Attiny85 only has 8bit TCPWM blocks, while the 1634 adds a 16bit PWM block. This is why most other drivers have only 255 levels of PWM resolution for their 7135s. I suspect going forward with more 1634s in drivers, we may see more 1023-level PWMs, but potentially at the cost of lower PWM frequency - can be mitigated with a faster external clock, though.. 

If I had more board space, it’ll be easy to scale up the buck boost (or just use a buck or a boost, quite easily done for very high power levels) and we should be able to get full regulated output with much higher power handling capability. I built a buck converter for one of my high voltage projects which handles about 52kW peak, for example, but that’s another story. I’m not familiar with the Q8 though, and I’m not sure if I have plans to work on that just yet. The 100W boost driver is working, but it's very expensive. The GaN FETs used are $7+ per piece in 1x quantity, and you need 2 of them, plus the rest of the BOM cost. I'm not sure if it's worth it for most people. I had to bypass the entire flashlight body with a copper ribbon from a Samsung 30T cell. The general point of the GXB drivers was to boost from a single cell at very high power levels. If the flashlight was 2S or more, there are a lot more practical, less silly designs, and much cheaper designs that can be done sealed

www.loneoceans.com/labs/

lume1 - Constant Current BuckBoost + FET Anduril Driver for FW3x
High Power Boost Drivers - GXB100 100W GAN FET Driver // GXB172 50W 17mm Driver
GXF22 - CC+FET for Emisar D4 // GFS16 - 1milliOhm FET Switch System // Older: GXB17 & GXB20

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