Some due night beamshots of the Skilhunt M200.
I was using Group Mode B (L2 - M2 - H2 - T2) and Turbo 1 (T1) [Specs Lumens: 0.5 - 25 - 150 - 535 - 1000]
The flashlight provides good ilumination above 70m.
I also noticed that using a protected battery created some “flickering” when accessing T1. I immediatly started using an unprotected Sony VTC6 (High-Drain) and I noticed that the output increased on T1 and also that flickering stopped.
I don’t know if this is registered in all flashlights, but it justifies what manufacturer says: “use high drain cells”!
And this is some attempt to make a CRI Comparison between the Skilhunt M200 and other flashlights with High CRI and non High CRI Leds.
It is probable that I fail with this test, but…bear with me, I was never good at these
Major diferences are shown in the orange more than on the red…
You’re welcome. I agree, the UI does seem more advanced than Olight. Beam shots look decent from your photos. Is the lens fully accessible so you can apply the DC-Fix on the inside of the lens?
I would like to get this light eventually, although I think I might go with the Lumintop EDC18 first. Something about that design really appeals to me. For roughly the same price to get Anduril UI is hard to resist!
Of course with both of these models, the step down from Turbo is fairly quick. But that’s not the real intention behind these lights—long term throwing. Probably better off with an Astrolux MF01S for that.
Thank you
Well, if this M200 works as the new Skilhunt H04 Headlamp, the turbo is timed and not heat-controled. Narmattaru reviewed that headlamp and showed that after that timed stepdown the turbo could be attained again for the same “cycle”.
He pointed that this could be a disadvantage both for the light (due to accumulated heat) and the battery. Also for that reason, it is better to use a high-drain cell!
Hum, I didn’t unscrew the bezel, but I suspect that this is similar to the M150 and other lights, so the bezel is probably easy to unscrew to access the lens.
But DC-fix can also be applicated without removint the lens, although it is not the best solution, eventually.
Yes, I agree, this is not a light to be held indefinitely on high, so the timed stepdowns are a way to cool it down…despite what I mentioned above about “restarting” the cycle.
About the EDC18, I guess it is a little more larger than this. This light is a good light for backpacking due to its rechargeability capacity, the lightweight and compact form.
Also, it seems to be well regulated for long runtimes on the lower modes. Definitely a light I would take on a trip!
The EDC18…is only missing the shorty tube and the aux leds to be a best seller
Today I decided to open the bezel of my Skilhunt M200 and contrarily to what I mentioned above, and also corroborating what Ryley posted above, the MCPCB of this flashlight is round and has a bunch of wires connected to it.
Narmattaru reviewed this light and confirms that turbo is timed, not heat controlled.
I also decided to mod this light to end the slight tint shift that this light has. So, I opted to use a pebbled TIR that I had laying arond , instead of using DC-Fix.
I kept the black gasket around the LED, and I put a black o-ring a between the TIR and the bezel (it has a blue one originally, but it was causing some blueish shift in the beam with the TIR).
Also, I am not using the glass lens, there was no space for it with the TIR.
Here is how the beam looks with the TIR:
And this is a comparison with:
a) Convoy S2, 5000K Nichia, OP reflector >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> b) Wuben TO50R, 4 x LH351D, quad TIR optic
It has, obviously, less throw, less intensity, it is floodier, but has no artifacts on the beam!
I have two questions/concerns about this light. Unfortunately, these are the ever-so-important details of lights that get MISSED ALL THE TIME! (Can you sense my frustration?) lol
1. How’s the switch actuation/feel? And resistance to accidental activation? How about ease of locating switch by feel?
2. The dang pocket clip! Can the tube be reversed? What are the diameter and width of the rear groove?
Ahah, thanks
Your wallet won’t thank you, probably, but your EDC kit surely will Ehehe!
Thanks for the comparison
It would also be nice to have an Olight S2R (I or II) to compare it with this light, as both have the same form factor, side switch and all that.
Answering you, by parts
1)
a) the switch is not as resistant as the Emisar D4 or the Olight M2R Warrior, or even the Wuben TO50R or TO46R. Both these have rubber caps over the switch so this may be a factor in resistance. You still need to press it slightly to activate, but it doesn’t need a lot of strength.
b) well, accidental activation is something that I didn’t experience because I normally use it locked, so it didn’t turn ON in the pocket. BUT, in case you use it loose in the pocket with other stuff, it may happen. If clipped to the pocket, or loose without other stuff, that possibility will probably decrease
c) the design of this light is very nice in terms of location. If you are using it with index and thumb you’ll find out that having the button up or down won’t necessarily matter because you’ll be able to activate it with whatever finger you have on it Also, I am using mine with the pocket clip in the opposite direction of the button, so whenever I grab the light, I’ll know where the button is. But even without that, you’ll be able to touch the switch and activate it well due to the shape of the head.
Check this photo I put above:
2) About the pocket clip and tube…as the tube is glued, I didn’t mess with it. However, looking at the bottom end threads, it doesn’t seem to me that it can be reversed.
The rear groove has, more or less, 2mm in height and the diameter is similar to the one in the head, 20.3mm:
!https://i.imgur.com/MUqIYRP.jpg !
Hope this helps.
BTW, due to the tension created by the pocket clip, it cannot be used “cover” the switch to hinder accidental activation. The clip presses the switch activating it!
I have the same M200 with the LH351 emitter. My beam is quite yellow/green with tint shift to purple. Did yours look like that before the TIR? Without changing the lens, is my best bet a minus green filter or DC fix? The LH351 5000k looks greener in the M200 than the 4000k SST-20 in my Convoy S2+. Pretty bad. Also, I have some 219B R9080 emitters in 4000k. How tough would a swap be and are they compatible?
Try DC Fix first to correct the tint shift and see how the blended beam looks like for colour.
If the tint after adding DC Fix is still too green/yellow for your taste, then you would have to add a Lee Minus Green filter to correct it.
You will have to get creative if you use both. I would probably add the Minus Green under the lens, and the DC Fix on top.
If you use only the Minus Green Filter with DC Fix, it will render all parts of the existing beam to be less green, but you will still have the rainbow effect with tint shift across the beam.
Fyi, I got the battery tube off fairly easy on my M200, also removed the bezel easily as well. All I used was my blue sticky gloves. The battery tube had traces of red stuff, probably RED Loctite. I partially pulled out the driver (NOT RECOMMENDED) to check it out, and trying to insert it back in, accidentally pushed the switch clean off the PCB - ouch!!
Now I'll have to fully de-solder the MCPCB to get the driver fully out to do the switch repair. Fortunately the switch and pads on the PCB are undamaged so should be able to re-solder easily, but not sure yet how to re-assembly it without doing the same thing -- I'll find out soon I hope. Interesting the switch was held on with such little solder on the 2 ends and that's it - nothing through the PCB or holes in the PCB for alignment for making it more secure. But really, there's probably no need to secure the switch any better - it's a nice feel switch - one of the better, if not best.
Thanks for the report on this Tom E , and sorry for damaging the switch :zipper_mouth_face:
I bet your skills will fastly overcome that situation
I never thought of taking the battery tube out, as I don’t have plans to mod the driver nor the switch! This flashlight is near perfect as it is, specially for the efficiency, design (despite the pocket clip) and UI!
I certainly wouldn’t want to mess with it!
Thanks for your report, though, as someone may wanna take a look at the internals
If you can, please take some photos, just to document how it looks like. Always helpful to have some details on that
And good luck :sunglasses: :+1:
I'm actually working on a Amazon review for this light right now, so took some pics. Not a complete tear down yet, but will be taking more of driver details with the "removable" switch. The weight of this is incredibly light - bout same as an 18650:
Comparison shot showing how really thin it is. Length, of course, can't be as short as the factory triples since the reflector has some depth to it, but still length isn't too bad From left to right: OTR M6, Amutorch AX2, the M200, Convoy S2+, Sofirn SC31B
With the batt tube off, the driver is fairly loose - nothing holding it in. The blue SS trim looks really nice on this light:
Standard XPL, guessing about a 3B/D or 2B/D. Looks like a thermistor on the copper MCPCB:
You see how small the LED wires are? Tiny, like maybe 28 AWG or so. This light seems to do better on a better cell, so betta if I replaced the wires with heavier gauge ones, might see a boost.
