Suggestion?

I have a number of lights which are close, but not perfect. Wondering if anybody is aware of one light which fits the below criteria:

- 2AA alkaleak/nimh

- tail clicky with lockout

- no side switch

- at least 80CRI, 90 is better

- tint anywhere between 3500-5500k

- some hotspot/throw. Not pure flood.

- ipx8

- under $60’ish

  • simple UI with low mode first or similar

optional

- reducible to 1AA or other battery format(s)

  • would consider a twisty but no side switch!

I have three lights which come very close

  1. Pelican 2360. Comes with a CW XPG2 but should be moddable to preferred 3535 LED. No lockout feature, though.
  2. Foursevens Quark 2AA Mk iii. Very close but no lock out. Plus some reliability issues out of the box and poor results from customer support (different topic, lets just say it does not have my trust at this point).
  3. Jaxman M2. Close but would need to source a neutral tint high CRI XML2. Bezel works well with the LED but is very large for a pocket light.

Armytek Partner C2 might fit the bill if you’re ok with that UI, though I’m not sure about the CRI.

I’ve been looking at the Partner A2 for a long time as I’ve been very happy with everything about my Wizard Pro XHP50. Based on my experience with other lights, though, I am hesitant about a warm/neutral XPL as they have had so-so to poor CRI for me. Maybe I will kick out an email and hope for a useful response.

Sounds a bit like my old Fenix TK20 (the early one with the rubber grip), but those Cree XR-E emitters were only 75 CRI. Nice warm beam though, and I still fire mine up occasionally.

With the greater popularity of 18650 cells, there don’t seem to be that many 2AA lights made anymore.

They are still out there, but definitely much less love from the industry these days. I still like AA since you can run NIMH or L91/lithium primaries as well as having the backup of alkaleaks.

Unless I’m mistaken, a ’351D is comparable to an XM package, whereas the ’B would be comparable to an XP.

So a ’D should fit in the M2.

Can you please help a novice. What is this function? I guesd a button in the tail. But lockout?

351B/C/D are all 3.5mm footprint, it’s just the die size that varies.

Unscrew the tail cap a bit to completely lock the light out.

Even better. :laughing:

Not sure why this is necessary. For now I only know low end flashlights. The button requires a hard push to turn on. An accidental turn on is very unlikely.

How come this kind of issue could happen on flashlights costing more than $10?

A light I have gotten recently almost does what you are looking for. Lumintop IYP25. It has mode memory though. Don’t know if that is a deal breaker. High CRI Nichia 219C. 500 Lumens on turbo. I quite like it even though I usually hate mode memory. For what I use it for it’s really not an issue. It replaced the few Zanflare F2’s that I was using. It had mode memory too which didn’t bother me BUT, it had strobe in the mode set. Drove me crazy.

Amazon has it for $23.99.

LEDicrous, tailcap lockout is important to reduce/eliminate the possibility of accidental turn on while in a pack resulting in unexpected dead batteries. For me this is important as I don’t want to have to pack the batteries separate when traveling.

toddcshoe, I appreciate the recommendation on the IYP25 and in fact have the IYP365 which I really like. Mode memory is a dead breaker for me as I don’t want/like to worry about which mode it was left in last. Any fixed mode order is better with L-H being preferred.

I have some old Fenix L1T lights which I updated from the orignal XRE emitters to XPG years ago. I tried updating one to a 219C which ended up being far too floody and the other to a XPL warm/80cri which is sorta OK but still poorly interfaces between the mcpcb and reflector (ground the reflector down a bit and then used thread adhesive to secure the bezel since it was still too tall). They originally had the XRE directly mounted to the pill so stars tend to mess up the vertical spacing.

Most lights I’ve owned have a button that’s fairly easy to press, whether tail or side switch. I wouldn’t trust any light I have ever owned to not possibly be turned on in a bag with all kinds of bulky and heavy items bumping around in there.

For that matter any electronics that could accidentally be turned on in a bag should be locked or have batteries removed. I do it with radios, etc. too

I completely understand. I am like that with my EDC and my sneaking around the bedroom in the dark lights. The IYP25 replaced the Zanflare’s that were in the car and truck so, the mode memory doesn’t bother me for those uses. I have some lights that I really like and thought I could live with mode memory. They just get left sitting in the drawer and never getting used.

I know the DQG Slim AA has an add on tube so you can run 2xAA in it. I don’t know if you could still get one or not. I emailed George 3 weeks ago and he wasn’t able to ship anything out. Told him I would check back every month or so. It’s kind of anemic in the output department 180 on high I think. Nicely built little thing though.

I will keep my eyes out for something that may fit the bill though.