Tear Down: Manker E02 / E02H (same as E03H)

Sorry, maybe not the best place for my question.

A new E02 w/ Nichia only works when I hold the button (switch on after 1 sec or so). I checked w/ another batteries, and it's not in lockout, tried on another E02 the lockout doesn't have momentary mode. Sent mail to Manker too, but I think the answer will be after Chinese New Year.

Tried to tear apart, but can't loosen the head from the body (by hand w/ some rubber to increase friction). I there any method to reset (like in Anduril)?

sorry to hear
mine works both ways

from off
a short single click gives the moonlight mode

also from off
holding the button gives last mode memory (low or medium)

Im not aware of any reset feature.

question:
is it possible you cant tell the light is on, from single click, because it goes to such a low mode that you cant see it during the day? (try a single click from off in a dark room… now can you see the LED is on?)

Thank you!

No, I can't notice any light after a single click.

Does anybody know if there’s any TIR lens options out there for the eo2?

try changing the moonlight mode to another brightness level
(engineering mode)

good idea, let us know if you find out what to order

I got the idea because I also ordered a knockoff nitecore tini and it is fairly close to the same size.

Decided on 219b sw45k on the e02 and 2700K sst20 on the e03h as headlamp and mini lantern with the diffuser. Photos below (~5500K WB)

Moonlight mode

E03 (SST20 2700K) without diffuser and e02 (219B 4500K)

E03 with diffuser and e02

Went through my box of yajiamei optics to try on the e02. The 13mm with stent removed I used for the Panda 3 is the right height but too narrow so cannot place o-rings in between optics and glass lens.

Also tried this 16mm. I removed the stent and sanded down to fit the interior of the bezel and it fit ok. Without the centering ring it fits with the glass lens but beam is not so nice (with doughnut hole). With the centering ring it fits without the lens and the beam is pretty nice and as it shoud be for beaded tir. But I did notice a drop in output so I checked. @ turbo with old eneloops I was getting ~140 lumens with the stock reflector and only ~100 lumens with the optics. So decided to keep the reflector since I also like the 219b + small OP beam for its purpose.

Was it worth the loss in lumen output, also with the centering ring anD no lens is it still technically waterproof,also do you have a beam shot without the lens? Thanks for your insight

For me it was not worth the loss since I wanted a little more throw for my e02 and I like the beam as is. Now if I wanted a nice flood headlamp for closeup work it would definitely be worth the loss but I have my e03 with diffuser for that (which actually looses as much with the diffuser). I think most of the lost light goes out the side of the optics which a white stent could have helped with. Not sure but maybe painting the sides of the optic white might help improve otf output. With regard to waterproofing, I have modded other headlamps (AT wizard, HC30 and others) where I removed lens (because they won’t fit) and put o ring between the optics and bezel and tighten bezel as much as I can. So far they no problems with waterproofing yet even after caving trips. I just had to clean and lube the o-rings after some muddy trips because mud gets to them.

Thank you for the the information and help, I think I will stick with what I have stock, I’m still somewhat of a beginner.

depends on how that thing is soldered, the huge thermal mass of the copper piece might be a real problem in conventional reflow ovens
Maybe they need some real nasty air flow to get the proper ramp up and down speed that dislocates the parts

I didn’t see any ‘solder bulbs’, but they sure used enough solder, a bit much on the switch tabs, but that helps hold it in place.

It seems the pads on the PCB are a bit large, so the parts can ‘swim around’ a little in the molten solder during reflow.

Hello, I’m enjoying my e02 I wanted to pop some DC fix in, how can I safely remove the bezel, thanks everyone
Michael

Read back. :wink:

…Is the copper cooler block in galvanic contact with any potential or with the lamp grounding? As I see on the pictures maybe not. Assuming that the head inner surface is anodised. Is it?

So a few weeks back I dropped my E02 while it was still hot from a LED swap and a lot of components fell out. I’m not so technical/skilled that I can fix it but thought might as well contribute to the community with my misfortune so I decided to pry the driver board from the copper heatsink to give you guys a better view. Not sure if it was glued really since there are dots of what I assume is thermal glue but again I’m really a noob at this. It was more like press fit onto the heatsink.


Thanks for the pictures! The right one ( with Your fingers ) is out of focus. Could You take an other one?
I am sorry for Your flashlight.
For me it seems to be still repairable but needs some soldering experience.

I updated the post with a more up close shot. Yeah it will take up more effort for me since I don’t have the skill. Maybe in the future.

I heard back from “Steven” at Manker regarding the flicker on my E02 XPG3 in moonlight mode.

He said it was a known issue and that some levels flicker when selected in moonlight mode and to enter engineering mode and select a different level. It does not explain why but answered my question if my light had a unique problem.

I applied DC fix to both my Nichia 219c and XPG3, used a template, cut a circle and laid it directly over the lens. Worked perfect and defiantly smoothed out the XPG3 and made late night reading with the 219c better in moonlight mode spreading the light just enough to cover the pages evenly.

After following this post just purchased an extra E02 XPG3 to reflow, probably SST-20 4000K or 5000K.

Thanks for the tear down and advice,

Thank You!

[ Skill comes from practicing! :smiley: ]