* yeah first atempt was successful. I cut it by hand meaning I used a srcew driver to turn the chuck. Excuse the language but very rarely does something work with the first idea and the very first attempt. I havent tested it in a light yet but it gets a hot spot exactly the same as the one I brought. Now I can custom make the with fine tuned aperture.
I understand what you are saying about the materials, the stainless steel was laying around looked about the right shape so why not and It does make a visible difference to the beam.
Now that I know I can cut them I will look into silver plating. There are also places that can apply a protective coating. But what you are saying is it is in the actual glass. Well that makes it hard to reproduce at home then.
The small lens above the phosphor in the W30 is probably spherical then. I will have to have a closer look. You are obviously using it behind the collar which makes so much sense. The lense focuses the recycled light back and the collar provides the aperture. I had not got around to putting the lens directly on the led yet. Now you say that the W30 makes much more sense now.
Haha thanks for that, there goes another 6months
From my own experience i concluded the precollimator lens should be aspherical too.
Not sure why others conclude differently.
Maybe in between is best, i dunno.
The way I have it set up I call it the secondary. But I am going to have to look into having a 3rd lens or precollimator lens.
No, it's a precisely ground glass mirror (spherical) that is then coated with a dichroic coating. This type of coating allows for a very high reflectivity. To get similar performance for less money you can use a precise aluminium reflector that is then coated with an aluminium coating. This will get you around 90% reflectivity, close enough. The Wavien collar is slightly better, but with much higher production cost.
If you want the pre-collimator to be very effective it needs to be right above the LED so that it can collect all of the emitted light.
The_Driver, I understand what you are saying but if they are not available what else do you do? Myself I improvise and it is a hobby. The lights I build are to see if I can do it and to amuse myself, most of them I have no use for. But I do have an aim and that is to scale some small lights up as big as I can, not to break records or for any commerical purpose just for fun.
My Old Lumens comp light it is a prototype that I wanted to build I just didnt know how or if the idea I had would actually work. I have 4 BLF GT reflectors and 4 SBT-90.2 for a quad Im not sure about cutting the reflectors so I will build a few smaller ones first.
The information on the precollimator lens thanks it was very helpful. You are right about the spherical lens.
I found this actuator housing in the bin and I think I can make something cool out of it.
The 150mm lens is slowly getting a light engine this will have a K75 driver, SBT-90.2 and a marinebeam rlt collar. Lens is 150mm diameter and has a 177mm back focal length.
The battery tubes will go here but the back plate wont fitt in my lathe. Havent thought of a way to do it yet
Think I need a recoil thread
Can you get it done on a mill, or have access to one? an adjustable boring tool could cut out perfect holes for the batteries.
That brute is a beaut.
This stuff is impressive, very cool.
Love it when people experiment with throwers this powerful 
Yes yes….very cool….that recoil thrower looks awsome!!!
I have access to a big lathes at work but because it isnt my trade I cant just use them the tradespeople will freak out. I think the backplate will have to be changed or redone anyway. I could cut the battery tube mount off, cut the threads and then bolt that to the new plate. That is the way im thinking as weight doesnt really matter it is heavy anyway.
This is a copper piston for the led to sit on. the lights heatsink will be bored out for the piston, seals in either end of the barrel will contain the thermal compound and the piston will be driven by a leadscrew.
I have a week off so I will be self isolating and enforcing the get lost rule so I should get a bit done.
It is funny that recoil looks like garbage but will trow further than anything else I have w30 k75 gt. I made it like that because I damaged the reflector. But I cant stop there so I ordered the 24inch version from edmundsoptic. I also got rorted on ebay with an 8inch francis reflector. I think enderman posted the link on ebay to a glass mirror. So I had to have an 11inch with 6inch FL. The other day on ebay I randomly searched parabolic mirror and what do you know there is a 1940 era 36inch glass search light mirror 4hours drive from me. Made an offer got a bargain and I pick that up on tuesday.
Beamshot of 11inch glass mirror sbt-90.2 @12amp! w30 is on the right
Wow !! grin 
I think you have taken the King of Big Lights title 
Have you considered cooling the led in your 11inch glass mirror sbt-90.2 @12amp ?
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” Enderman ” cooled his like the pics below.
The SYNIOSBEAM - CFT90 recoil thrower pics start at #100.
The SYNIOSBEAM - CFT90 recoil thrower pics start at #204.
The SYNIOSBEAM - CFT90 recoil thrower pics start at #344.
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Could you please draw us a sketch on paper and I will transfer it to CAD and verify it thru a PM with you and then you can post it here for clarity reasons. I’m having a hard time putting your description together in my head. THANKS
. And one more thing Please, Where are you buying your lenses ??
BTW … GREAT BUILDS !!!
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I have read Endermans thread, more than likely it will have the same driver. Water cooling, it is the easiest way to get the heat out. I am waiting for a borosilicate 3d printer base that will be used for the lens. I can then finish the front of the light.
There is still a lot of work to do.
I will do a sketch for you in a day for 2 when I get a bit more done. Haha I have to get it out of my head and into metal first.
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THANKS
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Forgot to add I have purchased lens from lot of different places aliexpress has some good one but you have sift through. I have one of these
Edmunds optic is where I got the 150mm daimeter FL 200mm and 150mm Fl 300mm
I have a 200mm diameter FL 400mm on order, this is where the secondary comes in. A second lens will be able to shorten the focal length to a more reasonable length. Although the projected image will be bigger no matter what I think you gain overall.
edmundoptics
I have got a lot of different smaller lenses. From ebay, aliexpress, fastech, kaidomain
Do you notice the difference between spherical and aspherical convex lens for LEDs?
Im not sure what you mean concave convex lens? I have not had any success with them. The ones that project the best are plano convex. Double convex doesnt give as good a beam.
Thedriver mentions spherical lens very close to the LED I have some on order because a bit of research sayes that he is right. So then I will then build a 3 element projector light and see how it goes.
Sorry, my question was not clear.
I am talking about plano convex lens. At diameters larger than 100mm, the selection of aspheric plano convex lens is difficult to find. In addition, the price is also higher for large aspheric plano convex lens.
Spherical plano convex lens have more selections, are cheaper and can be produced with very high precision.
I personally never tested spherical plano convex lens before, so I am asking for how you feel using them.
Thank you for sharing experience with bicovex lens. I thought they would perform about the same.
CNCman, Here is a basic drawing of how the focus will work I done have the motors yet so not sure how they will mounted. There also needs to be a way for air to escape from between the seals. Im not even sure this will work yet.
