I finished updating the driver to an 8x7135 board form E1320. Since no one makes a 20mm board, I had to use the OEM driver as a dummy and sandwich layer the 7135 on top of that. I desoldered the torroid and all the SMT components from the 20mm board, checked the +B and -B traces for shorts and conductivity, and then sandwiched the 7135 onto that. Had I known this was going to turn out so well, I would have taken step by step build pics. But heres the finished board, with red and black wires for the LED. It just drops right in.
I left some space between the two boards (just to play it safe), although I could have pressed them flatter against each other.
It is now just four modes. More importantly the ANNOYING PWM is fixed and no more disco. Modes are set up as candle-LO-MED-HI-TURBO. Current at the tailcap reads:
.002, .095, .640, 1.35, 2.79
I am working on some heatsink mods and a U2 emitter upgrade. With the U2 emitter, I think I can get this one near the 45-50K LUX ballpark. Although part of me wants to stay with the OEM T6 emitter, I got lucky on the tint on this one, its a very nice pale-cream color. The hot spot diameter is slightly smaller, and the edge of the spot circle is more clearly pronounced than my 3.5A modded HD2010. Outstanding little light, and a great MOD host. The tailcap issues I noted above have been completely resolved.
That is a clone of the Skyray A01 and probably came off of the same assembly line. You need a link to where you got it and how much. After getting my HD2010 I'm crazy for this format and may have to get one of these to mod up.
Kramer, you obviously own both lights. Is it even worth getting this one if you already have an HD2010? How do they compare to each other in performance and tint? Obviously the thinner bodied MXDL will be easier to carry cigar style. Is it worth another $27 to have both?
Hi Johnny... No its probably not worth getting. Stock the HD2010 is brighter and throws farther too, and theres no visible PWM on the HD2010. I didn't make it a big point in my first post, but the SA-76 low modes have a very pronounced PWM flicker. I can't stand PWM flicker, so hopefully I can upgrade this one with an 8x7135 soon.
I hope to take some beam shots tonight to illustrate the difference in brightness.
I think the only major advantage the 76 has, is its just smaller and easier to carry when used actively. The grip rings keep it firmly planted in my hands. Its also a little easier to mode flip with my thumb too, as the HD2010 is just a little big for one handed operation. I also like the LOTC on the SA-76. I pack carry lights this size so I want to make sure I have a redundant fail-safe to make sure the switch doesn't accidentally turn on.
Yep... looks like another variant to the skyray A01. I searched that one and another forum member also had tailcap problems... its just a piss-poor design all together. I got mine to work reliably and to my liking, but I don't think this light is one I can openly recommend without some hesitation. I think its best for experienced owners and modders too... people who like to take stuff apart and tweek around. I don't think its a light you can just use out of the box... like the HD2010. In fact this is probably the biggest difference between the SA-76 and the HD2010... the latter will work out of the box.
Much tougher call now that the LED sees 2.8A... the two are much closer in overall brightness and the PWM is gone. I think the U2 upgrade will further close the gap between the two. I think I would now answer YES... but only if you find the HD2010 big, and bulky to hold and use actively. I can cigar hold the SA-76 and take out the trash very easily (for example).
One things for sure, the stainless steel threads are really smooth against anodized aluminum. I generally avoid metals like Stainless steel, brass and titanium because they are thermal insulators.... and in that sense some of the worst metals for general heat sinking. But in this case its a good blend of black anodize aluminum and the nice "feel" of stainless.
I still expect the 2010 to significantly out throw it. Its a bigger/heavier all aluminum host, Its LED is driven at ~3.5A, and its using a brand new/fresh 26650 cell. The immediate thermal path from the LED (pill assembly) is thicker and heavier in the HD2010. Colder tints also seem to travel farther than warmer colors. The HD2010 (at least my sample) still has a slightly hotter spot... within its hot spot. I would expect that hotter concentrated area to reach farther than the modded SA76. I'll have to take them out tonight and compare them in the field but I fully expect the HD2010 to dominate....the question though is by how much?... and does the SA76 come close enough to justify its use instead, when you also factor in its smaller size + easier carry advantage?
Anyway enough about me. Thank you for the review kramer5150. That is an attractive mini thrower. Nice big head. If the reflector was a little deeper then it might really rock and make super mega big candela scores. I wonder if you have a lux meter? Or acces to one. I am sooo curious about it.
I really like that very small form factor. It is soo tiny in your hands! Comparing to your watch makes it look itty bitty tiny miny :-)
I think I'll buy one of these for my single 18650 thrower needs. (Like I have that)
Did you ever get around to making a better heat sinking solution? Or have you decided it is not worth it? Does it heat up fast and evenly when turned on?
Ohh I cannot get this right now. But I would throw a 3,8 A driver in there faster than you could say let there be light!
TY for the review and the nice pictures. And for documenting how nice a mod host it really is. Those tailcap issues you mention I consider to be very small. Thanks to your pictures it seems I have a new target to aquire :-) (My wife may still kill me though!)
Its probably an easy thread to miss. MXDL has been around forever. I first remembered reading about this brand in the BessieBenny thread that CPF moderators butchered. So MXDL goes back to ~2005 time frame... most of their lights are what I would consider poor designs, with a LOT of DOA reports on CPF. So its easy to disregard the brand as a whole.
Nope I am still working on the heatsinking improvements. I need some help from a local machinist on that one. But I'll update my thread when its ready. I'll probably stay with the 2.8A driver, the truth is its just not a very big/heavy light. I don't think it has the heatsinking mass to sink that much heat away from the LED... even after the heatsink improvements.
Thanks for the kind words too!! Oh one more thing, the macro setting on my camera distorts the scaling of the images... my watch is not really THAT big.
