Olight H2R Nova (cw) vs Zebralight H600fd (or fc) mkIV - which one should I buy

15 posts / 0 new
Last post
kourepai
Offline
Last seen: 7 months 3 weeks ago
Joined: 06/10/2016 - 04:46
Posts: 19
Location: Greece
Olight H2R Nova (cw) vs Zebralight H600fd (or fc) mkIV - which one should I buy

I am trying to decide on a headlamp, and, I think, I have narrowed it down to the Olight H2R Nova (cw) and Zebralight H600fd (or fc) mkIV.

I don’t have the chance to see any of those up close and I have to order them from another country.

The pros and cons to my mind for each light are the following:

Olight
Pros
- More lumens (2300)
- Good access to turbo
- Nice head mounting option

Cons
- Cool white tint (problem with fog, rain, etc)
- Older led xhp 50 (? is it older than xhp 50.2, or am I wrong)
- “Low” CRI

Zebralight
Pros
- 90+ CRI
- Good access to turbo
- Parametric brightness of UI
- Newer led xhp50.2

Cons
- Not that good of head mounting option (more difficult to remove)
- Less lumens (around 1600)
- Problems with spring on cap (read some online, and on this very forum, about stepping down due to spring overheating)

I live in Greece, so price is the same for both. The one question that I have, is how does the zebralight have 90+ CRI with xhp50.2. I thought that this was a property of the led, and from my “research”, xhp 50.2 is around 70+.
Also I don’t like the fact that the spring is overheating if that is actually the case. I don’t know if it would be possible to bypass it, like I do on the lights that I assemble myself (convoy etc).

So, I would like some input and advice from you guys. Which one should I buy???

Edited by: kourepai on 03/24/2020 - 15:44
Quadrupel
Quadrupel's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 hours 19 min ago
Joined: 12/03/2017 - 10:40
Posts: 406
Location: Lithuania

Important factor for headlamp is weight.. so Zebra +1

BurningPlayd0h
BurningPlayd0h's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 57 min ago
Joined: 06/22/2018 - 02:16
Posts: 1540
Location: MN

I’d suggest the Zebralight + an Armytek headband (very light, great UI), or alternatively an Armytek Wizard Nichia version (magnetic tail, better tint, heavier, magnetic charging).

You won’t be running any of these at full blast for long, and 1600 vs 2300lm is almost indistinguishable for the short time full output is even available.

Quote:
The one question that I have, is how does the zebralight have 90+ CRI with xhp50.2. I thought that this was a property of the led, and from my “research”, xhp 50.2 is around 70+.

There are different color temperatures and CRI rating for the same base LEDs. These are called “bins” normally. Like a car being offered in two versions with different engines, or one with a turbocharger and the other without.

Lightbringer
Lightbringer's picture
Offline
Last seen: 4 hours 3 min ago
Joined: 08/30/2016 - 14:12
Posts: 12871
Location: nyc

Unless Cree came out with new ones that I don’t know about, there are no such things as high-CRI XHPs, whether 50 or 70, or .2 or .1.

They also have hideous angular tint-shift like XP-G3s.

You only use an XHP when you want quantity over quality.

09 F9 11 02 9D 74 E3 5B D8 41 56 C5 63 56 88 C0

BurningPlayd0h
BurningPlayd0h's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 57 min ago
Joined: 06/22/2018 - 02:16
Posts: 1540
Location: MN

Lightbringer wrote:
Unless Cree came out with new ones that I don’t know about, there are no such things as high-CRI XHPs, whether 50 or 70, or .2 or .1.

They also have hideous angular tint-shift like XP-G3s.

You only use an XHP when you want quantity over quality.

There have been since the original XHP50, they’re just rarely used by any flashlight brands except Zebralight (Jaxman or another brand was offering them in some lights too IIRC?).

The relatively small and aggressively textured reflectors in the H600 ends up making a surprisingly consistent beam, the frosted lens versions are perfectly uniform.

Lightbringer
Lightbringer's picture
Offline
Last seen: 4 hours 3 min ago
Joined: 08/30/2016 - 14:12
Posts: 12871
Location: nyc

Kinda the point. All my lights that have G3s also have a generous helping of diffusion film on the front glass.

Eg, the recent Tacklife steal. Nice thrower, but hideous beam. Slap on some diffusion film, and it’s an awesome in-house light.

Anyhoo, if you’d want a flooder as a headlamp, then great, some diffusion film would hide a multitude of sins, even from an XHP. But, dunno if the OP wants that.

09 F9 11 02 9D 74 E3 5B D8 41 56 C5 63 56 88 C0

goshdogit
goshdogit's picture
Offline
Last seen: 5 hours 11 min ago
Joined: 12/03/2015 - 21:28
Posts: 1247

I’ve been nothing but thrilled with ZebraLight, so that’s my vote.

I’ve suggested them to several friends and they’ve been very pleased as well.

DISCLAIMER: I own seven ZebraLights and zero Olights. Party

Lexel
Lexel's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 weeks 1 day ago
Joined: 11/01/2016 - 08:00
Posts: 5895
Location: Germany

Lightbringer wrote:
Unless Cree came out with new ones that I don’t know about, there are no such things as high-CRI XHPs, whether 50 or 70, or .2 or .1.

They also have hideous angular tint-shift like XP-G3s.

You only use an XHP when you want quantity over quality.

???
XHP have been always there in 80 and 90 CRI, Zebralight are using them regularly
50.2 is more efficient on battery drain with boost driver
if you take not CRI XHP50.2 the lumens are quite on the same number, Zebralight might drive a little less current through the LED

XHP has nothing to do with less quality the dies of an XHP70.2 are identical to XP-G3 dies

Overheating springs can be always fixed with a carefully soldered high flexible lead to bridge it electrically

50.2 is always a good option to use frosted lens or a TIR

kourepai
Offline
Last seen: 7 months 3 weeks ago
Joined: 06/10/2016 - 04:46
Posts: 19
Location: Greece

Thanks for all the input guys!

Lightbringer wrote:
Anyhoo, if you’d want a flooder as a headlamp, then great, some diffusion film would hide a multitude of sins, even from an XHP. But, dunno if the OP wants that.

Forgot to mention, I do want a floody light. So, yes, what you are describing sounds great.

So, from what I read, most of you lean towards zebralight and I don’t think than even one suggested the o
light.

Quadrupel
Quadrupel's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 hours 19 min ago
Joined: 12/03/2017 - 10:40
Posts: 406
Location: Lithuania

Just get Zebralight H600fc and enjoy Beer

asot
Offline
Last seen: 1 week 3 hours ago
Joined: 12/14/2010 - 16:07
Posts: 337
Location: Greece

Get a (like new) H600Fd III from Maukka, for about 58€, from here http://budgetlightforum.com/node/72042

BurningPlayd0h
BurningPlayd0h's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 57 min ago
Joined: 06/22/2018 - 02:16
Posts: 1540
Location: MN

Only other input I would give is actually suggesting the H600c/d over the Fc/d, because its easy to make a light floodier with diffusion film or scotch tape, but there is no way to remove the frosted coating if you go with that model and want a more focused beam sometimes.

I was expecting a lot of tint shift from my H600c and was pleasantly surprised to see less than even some LH351D lights I own.

kourepai
Offline
Last seen: 7 months 3 weeks ago
Joined: 06/10/2016 - 04:46
Posts: 19
Location: Greece

BurningPlayd0h wrote:
Only other input I would give is actually suggesting the H600c/d over the Fc/d, because its easy to make a light floodier with diffusion film or scotch tape, but there is no way to remove the frosted coating if you go with that model and want a more focused beam sometimes.

I was expecting a lot of tint shift from my H600c and was pleasantly surprised to see less than even some LH351D lights I own.

Thanks for the advice, I will consider it. Although I feel that scotch tape will burn and lose it’s shape on the light. I have never done it, so that is just a hunch.

asot wrote:
Get a (like new) H600Fd III from Maukka, for about 58€, from here http://budgetlightforum.com/node/72042

Thanks for the advice, but to be honest, if I buy it new I don’t pay VAT and is tax deductible, so it is kind the same for me.

Finally, and since I think I am persuaded to go for the zebralight, would you recommend c or d? From what I gather, most people go for d, but since I haven’t seen any of them in person, I don’t really know if the c is to warm. I generally like warm lights, because they tend to work better in rainy or foggy conditions.

sp5it
sp5it's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 43 min ago
Joined: 12/25/2012 - 07:51
Posts: 1149
Location: Poland

Zebralight hands down.
Mike

Think of how stupid the average person is, and realize half of them are stupider than that. George Carlin

 Anyone offended by my signature please fill Complaint Form. Thank you.

 If a lot of people listen to Slayer, the world would be a better place to live" - Tommy Wiseau

BurningPlayd0h
BurningPlayd0h's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 57 min ago
Joined: 06/22/2018 - 02:16
Posts: 1540
Location: MN

kourepai wrote:
BurningPlayd0h wrote:
Only other input I would give is actually suggesting the H600c/d over the Fc/d, because its easy to make a light floodier with diffusion film or scotch tape, but there is no way to remove the frosted coating if you go with that model and want a more focused beam sometimes.

I was expecting a lot of tint shift from my H600c and was pleasantly surprised to see less than even some LH351D lights I own.

Thanks for the advice, I will consider it. Although I feel that scotch tape will burn and lose it’s shape on the light. I have never done it, so that is just a hunch.

asot wrote:
Get a (like new) H600Fd III from Maukka, for about 58€, from here http://budgetlightforum.com/node/72042

Thanks for the advice, but to be honest, if I buy it new I don’t pay VAT and is tax deductible, so it is kind the same for me.

Finally, and since I think I am persuaded to go for the zebralight, would you recommend c or d? From what I gather, most people go for d, but since I haven’t seen any of them in person, I don’t really know if the c is to warm. I generally like warm lights, because they tend to work better in rainy or foggy conditions.

I’ve never had that happen when using it in a pinch, but you can also buy “DC Fix” or photography light diffusion film, both of which can absolutely stand up to the heat over long periods of time.

Even the 4500K SC600 HI and Armytek Nichia are a bit too cool for my tastes much of the time and I’m happy I went with the “c” variant. Tests by one member here put it at 3800-4000K depending on output level. It matches the 4000K 219Cs and LH351Ds I’ve had while being just slightly cooler (and better tinted) than 4000K SST-20s.