Great mod, jon_slider. What a beautiful little light, now with beautiful tint/CRI to go with it.
@gchart, thank you for taking the time to comment, I very much appreciate the kind words
The V10r lights are truly a joy to use, I am very fond of the design and operation of the magnetic control rings.
They are also slightly easier to work on than the RRT-01, and I have come to enjoy the tailswitch option of the Sunwayman, which lets me turn the light on and off at the same level as last used, which can be a convenient form of memory.
Oh man, nice looking light jon_slider with your favorite high cri rosy led. 
That xml reflector does take a little bit to get centered, but it does work amazingly well with the smaller led.
Your going to be a sunwayman before you know it. 
You are so true 
definitely an equal opportunity Magnetic Rotary Man
I like that the Sunwayman V10 and V11 models lego too 
The sw45k is much easier to get a good hotspot without donut hole
the E21a sits lower, and benefits from being raised 0.5mm
the bad donut on the E21 light on the far right, is because the LED was not raised, and needs to be redone
while the E21a light second from left IS raised and turned out really well
(both were originally xpg models, with smaller reflector holes than the xm-l2 models (Ti+ and V11r)
So jealous, wish I could find one too. 
I replaced the Samsung LH351D 4000K in my silver S2+ since I didn’t like the tint. I put in triple Samsung LH351D 5000K (SPHWHTL3DA0GF4RTS6) LEDs that I got from Digi-Key. I shaved them to improve the throw and to hopefully lower the CCT a bit. I like the tint of the new LEDs much better. They appear almost pure white with a very slight touch of magenta. BTW, the green lighted tailcap uses only 0.03 milliamps so theoretically should last 10+ years on the Samsung 35E battery.
congrats, those are nice white LEDs, to me slightly pink compared to daylight.
I use my shaved 5000k LH351d often (shout out to contactcr for the hookup). Good tint for a tasklight, during the day imo…
Thanks jon_slider. The tint looks very good, but I’m still not sure if I like it better than my triple shaved 219B sw45k. But if I had to pick, I guess I would go with the Nichia. But then again, the Samsungs are so much brighter! Choices, choices…
We are fortunate that we can enjoy Both…
im polyamorous, but most faithful to sw45k, after dark
the LH351d is more of a daytime dalliance
Today I modded a Sunwayman V10a, to sw45k, using the stock aluminium mcpcb.
It took half a dozen attempts with vise grips and leather wrap, to get the control ring assembly unscrewed.
I kept thinking about giving up, but instead kept putting the light in the sun to warm up again.
Eventually, the glue yielded to firm persuasion, without damage to the light, nor my pride.
The centering is as close to perfect as I have come so far.
The beam is excellent, with almost no dark cross even within very close range. On a white wall I can still find fault with the beam transition from hotspot to spill, but unless Im trying to, I do not notice the artifacts in actual use.
I now have two modded V10a, one w sw45k and the other w 4500k E21a.
fwiw, They have essentially the same output. Using the same battery to compare, the E21a is less than 5% brighter. The sw45k is a much easier mod than the E21a, in terms of centering and beam quality, because the sw45k allows reuse of the stock 12.7mm mcpcb and centering ring, which fit the sw45k very well.
Nice ! Patience pay off .
Nice job jon_slider! So which V10a do you like better, the sw45k or the 4500k E21a? Or is that like choosing your favorite child? 
Thank you Rdubya18 for the kind words. You are right, I was glad I took my time and did not crush the head tube…
and thank you also NeutralFan
My favorite is the sw45k in the evening (the tint is closer to incandescent), and e21a during the day (the tint is closer to daylight)
because
the sw45k is an easier mod to get a decent beam, and it is not as green as the E21a. Green is relative, another way to say that is the E21a is less pink, hence closer to daylight, which is greener than incandescent.
E21a makes whiter whites, but sw45k makes juicier reds
the E21a mcpcb is NLA, whereas the sw45k is an easy reflow to the stock mcpcb, in these models that were xpg
even in the xpl models, the sw45k is easier to get a good beam, the E21a sits lower, which is not good for the beam… (the LH351d 5000k dogfart is dedomed, which lowered the cct)
output and weight:
the V10a w AA Alkaline weighs 82 grams and makes 65 initial lumens, the same head on a V11r body w 16340 weighs 65 grams and makes 210 lumens at startup
Both of the V10a have firefly lows below 0.01 lumens on my meter
(I can see they are on, but my light meter reads 0.00)
the stock xpg is 10% brighter than the sw45k
form factor:
Im new to AA… it is heavier and longer, easier to hold, though personally, Ive always liked smaller things. For me, the smaller and lighter 16340 body is easier to carry.
UI:
Im very happy to fill an AA niche with a Rotary… the V10a fits that role nicely.
Beamshots:
all things considered… the sw45k is the winner!
Does anyone know where I can get spare cree xhp 50.2 reflector spacers for the convoy c8+
Thanks, appreciate it!!
Finally received an order for food grade silicon tubing and installed on the Water cooled MT 35 light.
The workshop is portable as we are still renting a small house.
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The tubing wanted to kink so I made something from .005 thick ss shim to keep it round in the sharp corners.
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After several attempts and failures it finally fit correctly. 
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I’m finished for now until I find the correct SBT90.2 and see if Lexel will make a driver for it.
Wrapped the battery tube with tennis racket tape for a better grip. Also added a simple switch on the pump.
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Put an SBT90.2 in an emisar D1S. It pulled 20.5A from a VTC5A and I measured 184kcd. A high output thrower in the palm of your hand.
My flashlight mods are pretty boring compared to what most of you guys are doing , but I did modify a slab of steel into these
I sent my Olight Autumn Ti off and had it bead blasted. Here’s the before and after.
