FandyFire HD2010, looks like will be 26650 compatible

I would ge the second one.

I am not a fan of spring floating drop-ins, with no heat transfer path for the LED.

I have this one on the way. should be here any day. I'd buy this one:

http://www.easylightbuy.com/ultrafire-hd2010-cree-xmlt6-5mode-led-flashlight-torch_p810.html

Hopefully this wasn't a mistake, but I just placed an order for the FandyFire HD2010 Cree XM-L T6 600LM from DX because I had to have it in the color black. I also opted for the EMS shipping for an extra $17.00 to New York. Hopefully it won't arrive with to much damage, or better yet, none at all.

I was going to give TMART a try, but it cost $49.00 from them, and they refused to ship it in some sort of box to protect it, added to the fact, they won't sell it with the 18650 to 26650 battery sleeve. So I figured, why give them all this extra money when they won't even make an attempt to satisfy me with a little extra careful shipping or toss in the battery sleeve that every other retailer gives you with it. So much for TMART trying to get BLF business. Well, not from me.

Hi, I wonder if a C8 pill will fit in the Fandyfire? Can someone please try?

I ordered the grey version from Tmart and it came in a box and included the battery sleeve for it. I doubt the person you spoke to knew what they were talking about.

Interested in driver info like diameter and if we can fit double side boards in there (does not look like it)

**EDIT** My commentary below is based on my experience with the Ultrafire HD2010, not the Fandyfire version. I am not sure the drivers are identical in these two lights.

No I do not believe a double sided 8x7135 driver will work. The light uses a standard 17mm diameter driver, but the retaining ring looks like it will interfere with the SMT 7135 chips. I have a custom programmed 3.5A (10x) board incoming form another member. I'll probably get to work with a dremel and press in a cut-down brass pill from a P60... solder the new driver into that. Others have had good results with this procedure.

Several others have told me that ~3.5A is the point of diminishing return on the XML, so I'll stick with that for starters. I am not expecting to gain Lumens from this mod, its more to gain regulation, efficiency and loose the stupid disco modes. The 7135 chips are crazy efficient, nearing 100% as Vbatt approaches Vf, at these drive currents Vf for the XML is around ~3.5V. All these numbers align near-perfectly with the battery space LiNiCoMn cells I am using.

Heres the stock driver: Actually this is a REALLY nice driver. Its a direct drive FET, controlled by an atmel-like EPROM. It uses high frequency PWM for the low modes. It doesn't have mode memory, it starts out on HI every time. Which allows the user to skip past the disco ball and go straight from LO back to HI, with a ~3 second soft-press. Of all the OEM drivers I have pulled and scrapped, this one here is one thats worth keeping for use in another XML light some day.

Thanks for the replie, it looks like it can be done

Had the Fandyfire HD 2010 from DX shipped out to me express shipping on 4/23 and arrived today in great shape and no damage. I don't have any 26650's just yet, so I used a Redilast 3100. On HIGH mode I was getting anywhere from 2.25a-2.44a. Maybe it'll do better on a 26650. In any event, it's a real beautiful light and smaller than I thought. Great beam too.

UPDATE: I just rechecked the DX website and realized they state the specs as "Digital regulated 2300mA" and 600 lumens. Looking at my tail readings, that's just what I got. Guess I purchased the wrong one, but again, this is a great light and still very pleased with it.

Richie086, just out of curiosity, does your driver look anything like kramer's above -the East-092? Guess not. Glad now I didn't jump on that FandyFire version when I wanted it so badly.

-Garry

Hey Garry, checking Kramer's post #119, I have the same East-092, but the large chip on mine is labeled 532 and Kramer's may have been 529. So something is slightly different.

Perhaps it's just the way the chip is programmed for high output? Thanks.

-Garry

I realize that we're months beyond confirming that this light takes 26650, but I saw this thread kept popping up again, and well, Hill's post is on page one, and I have both lights so...

If anyone who hasn't gotten their hands on one yet wants an appreciation for how much of a monster this thing is compared to the "already larger than a C8, 22650 capable" SmallSun ZY-C37 that Hill referenced above, here's a side by side comparison:

And just for S&Gs, here they are against standard C2 and C8 sizes:

I didn't realize how big this light was until you compared it to a C8!!!

Nice the head is huge compared to C8

Pic of my HD2010 orig. Pill and a 7135 V2 Driver with 2 added 7135:

You can´t use the C8 Pill, but you can use the Brass ring.

A little bit of rasp and it can be pressed in the orig. HD2010 Pill. ;)

Only difference between UF & Fandy is: LED-Protector (Fandy=Paperboard, UF=Plastic) / Tailcap (UF=GITD) / Clicky (UF=better one).

Hi folks,

Something weird. Before going out to take a beam shot of this FandyFire HD-2010, I checked my AW-2600, 18650 battery that I was going to toss into it since I don't have any 26650's yet. Just for kicks, I rechecked the tail-readings again, and this time on HIGH mode I got a rock solid 3.30a. Than I tossed in a fully charged Redilast 3100, and I got 3.0a at the tail. Very strange, it wasn't near this good several days ago. Anyway, all is great with this light and a real beautiful design. Glad you all recommended it.

I have found tailcap current to vary greatly depending on how tight the cell sits in between the springs (at least in the UF HD2010). If I compress the +B spring all the way flat I get a tailcap current of 5.52A. If I just touch the probe to the -B (without compressing the +B spring at all) I get a reading of 4A.

Pics... (again this is for the Ultra HD2010. I am not sure if the Fandy HD2010 behaves the same way).

Battery Space LiNiCoMn 26650:

With a Sanyo 18650...

Thank you Kramer, I forgot about you posting about this. I just assumed it would only happen with the Ultrafire version, but I guess any version may act that way. The other day when I first check the tail readings, the pressure I used holding the probes was very little. Tonight I was more more aggressive when checking it and it came right up to where I felt it should be. A really great and bright light this is.

If any one is looking for good protected 26650 batteries

https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/8030