Well, I modded my X9 to XHP50.2's, gets ~10K lumens, but I piggybacked in a driver. Looks like the stock driver is FET based, so you could just swap the LED's to XHP50.2's, assuming/hoping it can take higher amps, stock is ~15 amps, XHP50.2's in my custom driver setup hits 30 amps at max.
I don't see any other option for LED's to get more output, and the good thing is the stock driver is already FET based. But again, you always throw the dice when bumping up amps. I'm guessing it should work ok, because 15 amps is already a big #.
Well the old model had USB charging, new model is magnetic. I got one of each but both had the charging removed because of piggybacking in a replacement driver.
yes yes……xhp 50…but neutral white.sure not cool white.and i cant found them sadly…as a tripple.but for this you need bigger reflectors …so maybe the xml version can fit… cos there are bigger reflectors than xpl version…
I already did it too. I got a triple XHP50.2 3v and now have a triple XPL HI V4 3C. The XHP50 triple was done before I got into Anduril, so it's NarsilM v1.3, while the XPL HI just finished the other night so it's got my latest Anduril.
I piggybacked in a 20 mm 0.8 mm thick FET+1 driver by DEL, OSHPark for both of them, wiring up the blue and read switch LED's so comes out look'n purple-ish. Not that I like Amutorch's:
yes we know we know…but its sold out or what….and you inspired me to make it xhp triple…with stock driver to save usb port.i dont want flashlight without usb anymore…
Not really sure - it's tight, but no where near as tight as the AX4, but fortunately with the AX4, I had a driver with a mounted switch that fit, with some tweaking. The X9 has the LED resistors on the driver. I left the resistors in place and wired them up to I/O pins #3 and #7 separately to the red and blue. Right now Anduril supports an AUX1 and AUX2 LED, but unfortunately doesn't take advantage of using them separately.
I've found for batteries, it's a tight fit as well. The problem could be my spring bypasses though - might have reduced spring height just enough to cause problems. Flat top LK style batts fit good, but the ones with a protruding top are a tight squeeze. I marked up the batt- end of a new EFEST 4200 pretty good.
Btw, those type of switches are prone to failure - they get bend back over time, sometimes just making it harder to activate, other times can break the contact, or bent back far enough to not work. Can't tell from the pic, but I have a clear epoxy backing that switch to support it better -- highly recommended even for the stock driver/setup.