OSRAM CSLNM1.TG & CULNM1.TG 1mm², CSLPM1.TG & CULPM1.TG 2mm²

As Lexel mentioned above, 4-4.5A is best for reliability.

Bistro? Don’t you mean Biscotti?

Biscotti version uses his temp driver which only pushes 4.3A on my W1, does Biscotti increase the current? I thought it would be the same

I don’t think the firmware changes the current. I measured another driver running an SST20 at 4.28A. I could have had a measurement/zeroing error. Also, please excuse my misnaming of the FW. I meant Biscotti.

As for reliability, I think 4A/mm2 is pushing the limits. I’m obviously chasing some numbers here which is admittedly not practical. Just having fun with it. For a duty/EDC light, I’d run much more conservative drive levels.

Convoy’s new 17 mm 5A driver with biscotti uses temp regulation.

Get rid of the NTC to eliminate the temperature stepdown and allow max current

It’s still outputting max current until the step-down occurs, right?

probably not, since the NTC is an analog element.
It sets the current limit depending on the actual temperature

That’s good, I’m not wanting anymore than what I’m already getting but considered removing the NTC.

Finally received my Convoy hosts

ANSI Results using the white flat 1mm with Convoy’s 4 mode driver at 4.3A

C8+ - 180,630 cd = 850m

M21C - 307,800 = 1.1km

L21A - 481,950 = 1.38km

Anyone know of a host I can use that’s slightly larger than the L21A?

:sunglasses: :+1:

Nice work. About 170kcd is what I saw from a C8 reflector. Didn’t put time into tuning it but it looked pretty much maxed out.

As for hosts larger than the L21A, you have the Convoy L6 + SMO reflector and the Noctigon K1 which will both yield around 600kcd at the same drive current. $$ start going up fast past ~60mm.

This zoomie has been in my AE cart and tempting me for months now. Nobody has mentioned or reviewed it. The HT line-up use acrylic lens, which really saves weight, cost, and improves performance on these large diameters. 66mm lens.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000321611399.html

This on on Ali worked out well for me, though the actual lens width was smaller than I thought. Much, much prefer an e-switch to run Anduril.

717 kcd, mod here: https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/37376/8711

Very nice mod and results. :+1: I haven’t see mod yet in that ultra deep thread… Deep like an ocean :slight_smile:

I despise throat switches and other redundant parts on flashlights like usb charging ports that seems like imposed standard now-days…
I would also like to see downsizing trend from manufacturers rather than overgrowing one…

And when we talk about aspherics imho there is light/lens size margin when the light becomes completely useless from usability side.

It will never be completely waterproof because there needs to be a way for air to get in and out of the head when the lens moves closer/farther.
If you completely sealed a zoomie with o-rings then the internal air pressure would make the head simply bounce back into the original position.

This is the only real solution to waterproofing ^
An extra flat lens at the front, like with reflector lights, that doesn’t move.
That keeps the internal volume constant.
The next challenge is moving the lens inside the sealed head from the outside without letting water in.
One option would be to use magnets, which can work through the aluminum body, or have a physical notch somewhow that then needs to be sealed with o-rings on the outside.

It’s not the only one. And may not be the best one.
The one that I see as potentially best is with use of air permeable membrane (gore-tex-like) that allows air to move in and out without letting water in.

Well Enderman we don’t actually need diving zoomie. Or maybe you need one? :laughing: Orings are more than suitable for regular IPX something usage of light. I did tests where I tossed regular 1503 light just modded with different thicker sets of oring into a bucket of 25 liters of water for 24 hours and there were no water leak into light or switch :wink: . Brinyte B158 should also survive mentioned situation but without any modding with better orings.

I don’t find extra flat lens on top as necessity for waterproofing but it ain’t bad as idea… There are zoomies that use front lens Curui 1706 and CRELANT 7G5CH.

But simple double Oring combination everywhere and I would prefer thread twisting/rotating zoomie since your mentioned effect “internal air pressure would make the head simply bounce back into the original position” will not happen with threaded zoomie action because such action is powerful enough to squeeze air out of the zoomie neck section with double(or even triple oring) during head twisting action.

I had a look at the zoomie lights mentioned but not really much use for such a tiny hotspot. Sounds ridiculously small for Tom to have trouble measuring the lux

Does any know which driver I could use in my BLF GT with the W1. I’m sure it would have ridiculous throw.

I haven’t modded my GT with a different driver yet, but a SRK/Q8 size driver sounds close enough to adapt? Mtn Electronics I believe sells a SRK driver that works only from a bank of 7135 chips, without additional FET, so you can load it with the exact amount of current needed for the W1.

(And the cell carriers must be adapted to parallel of course)

I had the FW1 in a BLF GT…

The CULNM1.TG 1mm is better 1.4Mcd. Still need testing and tuning/focusing and at longer distances outside, the weather has been cold and rainy for the last 4 days… Posted last week in the “what did you mod” thread for the rest of the build.

Pics of the FW1…


This pic is deceiving in real life it’s just a small micro dot hitting the top of this tree at this distance the beam is still narrowing down….culminating down… is that the right technical word?

Threaded zoomies are hard to change focus with a single hand.
If air can squeeze past a double or triple o-ring, then it’s either a bad design or a crappy o-ring.
In a case like that, the air should compress, or there should be vacuum, long before any air gets past a properly positioned o-ring.
The amount of volume change inside a focusing light is not a ton, so I would be very concerned if air was getting past your o-rings.
Definitely not IPX8 or 9 in that case.

Yeah that still wouldn’t work underwater where there is no air though.

Enderman the God has made us two hands :slight_smile: . Zoomie light ain’t PCP air rifle so softer kind of orings in flashlight is just enough. They don’t have to be made out of harder materials and to snugly fitted so they can enable air pressure loos during focusing action while they will still easily maintain waterproof level. So it does not make me concerned even tiny bit… Everything is like it should be. There is no other way…

And did you missed out 24 hours test in a bucket of water? Is that not enough? There is also thread in CPF and few tube videos with waterproof test of these zoomies if you don’t trust me.

So if you want diving light buy a diving light(there are 80% of nation that won’t dive) but if you want regular waterproof zoomie that can be easily achieved and without any fuss and talking about that and reflector lights should certainly not be considered as only good and reliable waterproof lights only because of totally untrue waterproof failure stigma on zoomie lights.

Even that “bad” one handed action, push-pull non waterproof zoomies will withstand heavy rain, drop in a puddle of water etc… So they are more than waterproof for most EDC carry tasks.