If people get creative they can attach a ring magnet to the outside around the button. Would also serve to recess the button. JB Weld or some sort of superglue or something?
Hank, which e21a LED’s do you plan on using? 9050, 9080?
Also, will you be offering the e21a option in the D4S as well?
Thanks
Are there any photos of the KR4 tailcap with trit?
Also have any owners of the KR4 tested pocket carrying and whether it is prone to accidental activations?
and ordered! Got the beautiful blue one!
I’m pocket carrying mine. No issues so far, but since I’m mostly at home I’m carrying less pocket-stuffing in my pockets so it’s harder to test than usual.
- Overall, I’d rate the switch more resistant to accidental pocket activation than any of my stock FW3 series switches, but not by a huge amount.
- It’s less resistant to pocket activation than any of my FW3 series lights with the o-ring switch mod. And far less so than my stiffest modded FW3 switch which requires something like 5 lbs of pressure to activate.
Hey Hank, these are absolutely stunning. Wow. How “limited edition” are these? I.e. how many do you expect to produce?
Wow looks really nice. Would have bought it if it used the KR4 driver. The 1x7135 driver makes it not very useful for me. Hope we will see similar limited edition for the kr4.
That seems disappointing.
He’s saying the switch is much better and less prone to accidental activations Like the FW series. How is that disappointing?
Some more observations:
- Tailcap lockout: The KR4 has true tailcap lockout. A quarter-turn is enough to completely disconnect power from the driver. This is different from the FW3 series where partially unscrewing the head or tail only disconnects the switch while leaving the driver powered.
- Loose pocket carry: So far, I’m quite liking this light. I removed the clip and am now carrying it loose in my pocket. The fluted body shape feels much better in the hand than an FW3A, and between the flat knurling and grippier anodizing it feels much more secure in the hand when held in a handshake grip, while being about the same with a cigar grip. No accidental pocket activation yet, but that doesn’t prove a lot.
- Output: It’s as bright as the Emisar D4 and brighter than an FW3A. It also seems to manage heat better than either. It seems able to maintain high brightness longer than either the D4 or FW3 series.
- Moonlight mode: at least on my sample, minimum brightness is more of a “very low”. It’s not quite as dim as the moonlight mode on my D4 and FW3 series lights. I assume this is due to the constant current driver. I consider “moonlight” to be dim enough you can stare directly into the emitters from close range. The KR4’s dimmest setting seems just outside that range.
- Clip o-ring - In the FW3A if you remove the tailcap the clip pops up and the little o-ring above it tends to fall out of position. The purpose of that o-ring is to prevent the clip from spinning when the light is sealed. In the KR4, that o-ring has its own slot. In addition to preventing the clip spinning, it also securely retains the clip in position. When you take the tailcap off to change the battery, the clip and its o-ring stay in position.
Oh, that’s a shame. My D4 is just within that range where I can stare directly at it.
Is the ramp floor set to 1/150?
Appreciate the posts on your KR4. Looking forward to mine. Ordered the 3000k, hope the tint is decent.
When you remove the pocket clip, please do not forget there is lanyard ring which can also be installed and try.
Good point. The light comes stock with a lanyard ring that can be used instead of the pocket clip. It also comes with a lanyard.
He also said it wasn’t a huge amount more resistant and that it is less resistant than the FW3A with the o-ring mod. I was hoping for a bigger difference.
Those are incredible! I already have 2 D4V2 Ti but I ordered the Blue Swirls, including 18350 tube, with SST20 3000K. Can you please verify these LEDs are of a below the BBL tint?
Unless it changed recently, Hank’s SST-20 3000K is HB4 bin, above BBL. You could use a Zircon filter to remove some of the yellow/green.
Would you be interested in SST-20 2700K JA3 bin, below BBL? You could try emailing Hank, maybe he still has some left.
I just noticed, Blue Swirls are gone 
Thank you lightdecay. My light was shipped today. I really hope it has below bbl tint or I will definitely have to reflow some other LEDs.
Hank, do you know what tint are my SST20 LEDs?