OSRAM CSLNM1.TG & CULNM1.TG 1mm², CSLPM1.TG & CULPM1.TG 2mm²

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polarweis
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The 3amp biscotti driver in a c8+ already gives nice power to w1. Led/host gets pretty hot allready with a full cell. I personaly wouldnt go higher than that with a flat white in A smaller host. L2 can handle more heat. Atleast if you sell them make sure they know it gets hot.

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4-4.5A is a good current
not many LEDs will handle 5A in a flashlight, they mostly tint shift and may turn blue after a while

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Okay, I’ll leave as is at 4.3A.

I really appreciate the replies,thank you

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I told Simon that there’s interest in the option to use OSRAM CSLNM1.TG 1mm and he’s ordering some to test. It would be a great addition

Texas Ace Lumen Tube calibrated with maukka lights

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luminarium iaculator
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And tell him to finally make some nice old style zoomie flashlight as addition to his reflector lights. He is long time into this business and he never offered zoomie light…

contactcr
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I tried to convince Hank to make aspheric head for Noctigon K1 which is a perfect candidate IMO but no luck. Maybe other people should bring it up Smile

Tom E
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For those of us who played with them, aspherics can be a major (or minor) PITA. In the past, BLFers offered aspheric lenses for the HD2010, and P60 lights. I bought both, of course, and did get them assembled but both were a PITA, and somewhat disappointing in results - not as throwy as we thought.

Dunno for sure why they are looked down upon, could be the poor quality of parts available for decent prices, or the complexity to get something working well and reliably. For sliders, PITA with the water resistance vs. the air pressure problems, the slide or twist mechanics - just a bunch of nasty issues.

Both Simon and Hank are into quality/reliability, so zoomies might not be a good option for them.

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For me I was only suggesting a fixed aspheric but you make good points for zoomies

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Tom E wrote:

For those of us who played with them, aspherics can be a major (or minor) PITA. In the past, BLFers offered aspheric lenses for the HD2010, and P60 lights. I bought both, of course, and did get them assembled but both were a PITA, and somewhat disappointing in results – not as throwy as we thought.


Dunno for sure why they are looked down upon, could be the poor quality of parts available for decent prices, or the complexity to get something working well and reliably. For sliders, PITA with the water resistance vs. the air pressure problems, the slide or twist mechanics – just a bunch of nasty issues.


Both Simon and Hank are into quality/reliability, so zoomies might not be a good option for them.

Then you have your decent zoomies like the B158. I think this LED would be great in a B158. I have one of 2mm2 in a Cometa it performs good.

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Funtastic wrote:
I told Simon that there’s interest in the option to use OSRAM CSLNM1.TG 1mm and he’s ordering some to test. It would be a great addition

A build with his ‘5A’ linear bistro Biscotti driver delviering 4.62A and WF1 in an M2 yielded 80Klux. I think there’s more left on the table if there an AR/ultraclear lens and a bit more current. This is a SUPER setup IMO.

BTW, does anyone have access to the Boost HL (4040 1mm WF) or just ONE sample they’re willing to part with? L4P had a batch that sold out and I can’t find them available anywhere. Really wanting to push 100Kcd (turn-on) out of the M2. Not going to get it with the 3030 for sure..

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They also over the w1 and w2 in green color. Even higher candella rating. Could be good for tactical lights?

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contactcr wrote:
I tried to convince Hank to make aspheric head for Noctigon K1 which is a perfect candidate IMO but no luck. Maybe other people should bring it up Smile

I’ve asked him about a zoomie before as well. Maybe others could join? Wink
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Agro wrote:
contactcr wrote:
I tried to convince Hank to make aspheric head for Noctigon K1 which is a perfect candidate IMO but no luck. Maybe other people should bring it up Smile
I’ve asked him about a zoomie before as well. Maybe others could join? Wink
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Tom E wrote:

For those of us who played with them, aspherics can be a major (or minor) PITA. In the past, BLFers offered aspheric lenses for the HD2010, and P60 lights. I bought both, of course, and did get them assembled but both were a PITA, and somewhat disappointing in results – not as throwy as we thought.


Dunno for sure why they are looked down upon, could be the poor quality of parts available for decent prices, or the complexity to get something working well and reliably. For sliders, PITA with the water resistance vs. the air pressure problems, the slide or twist mechanics – just a bunch of nasty issues.


Both Simon and Hank are into quality/reliability, so zoomies might not be a good option for them.

Hmmm… Simon and Hank should not be afraid of their own OEM zoomie…, and regarding quality/reliability reflector lights should not be only option.

Imho in a future (if we will live to see) I would like to place a bet that zoomie lights will prevail… That is already happening with IR spectrum illuminator lights and new VCSEL laser modules which gives ultra high performance greater than any Osram and similar LED IR emitters and of course suitable host for them are only zoomie lights. So for example small 20 mm VCSEL zoomie is equivalent to 69mm Osram 4715AS zoomie. Runing driven at 0,7A vs 2,2A of Osram led. They are running cooler, longer runtime so only 1×18650 cell is more than enough + ultra light host. So it is just a matter of time until laser VCSEL technology will appear in visible spectrum… VCSEL are not that expensive either…

There are waterproof zoomies on a market so it should not be problem to make them waterproof especially if they will use acrylic lenses instead of glass ones. Obviously only Brinyte (and maybe just few manufacturers) figured that /acrylic plastic is more consistent, more resilient (shockproof + lighter) and better for mass production than glass.
Lets say twist zoomie: double o ring at the tail, double oring at lens section, and double oring on throat section… More than waterproof Smile

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luminarium iaculator wrote:
Agro wrote:
contactcr wrote:
I tried to convince Hank to make aspheric head for Noctigon K1 which is a perfect candidate IMO but no luck. Maybe other people should bring it up Smile
I’ve asked him about a zoomie before as well. Maybe others could join? Wink
Thumbs Up
Tom E wrote:

For those of us who played with them, aspherics can be a major (or minor) PITA. In the past, BLFers offered aspheric lenses for the HD2010, and P60 lights. I bought both, of course, and did get them assembled but both were a PITA, and somewhat disappointing in results – not as throwy as we thought.


Dunno for sure why they are looked down upon, could be the poor quality of parts available for decent prices, or the complexity to get something working well and reliably. For sliders, PITA with the water resistance vs. the air pressure problems, the slide or twist mechanics – just a bunch of nasty issues.


Both Simon and Hank are into quality/reliability, so zoomies might not be a good option for them.

Hmmm… Simon and Hank should not be afraid of their own OEM zoomie…, and regarding quality/reliability reflector lights should not be only option.

Imho in a future (if we will live to see) I would like to place a bet that zoomie lights will prevail… That is already happening with IR spectrum illuminator lights and new VCSEL laser modules which gives ultra high performance greater than any Osram and similar LED IR emitters and of course suitable host for them are only zoomie lights. So for example small 20 mm VCSEL zoomie is equivalent to 69mm Osram 4715AS zoomie. Runing driven at 0,7A vs 2,2A of Osram led. They are running cooler, longer runtime so only 1×18650 cell is more than enough + ultra light host. So it is just a matter of time until laser VCSEL technology will appear in visible spectrum… VCSEL are not that expensive either…

There are waterproof zoomies on a market so it should not be problem to make them waterproof especially if they will use acrylic lenses instead of glass ones. Obviously only Brinyte (and maybe just few manufacturers) figured that /acrylic plastic is more consistent, more resilient (shockproof + lighter) and better for mass production than glass.
Lets say twist zoomie: double o ring at the tail, double oring at lens section, and double oring on throat section… More than waterproof Smile


My favourite approach to waterproofing is to add a secondary lens, could be a flat one that completely seals the light engine. Effectively a waterproof mule with added zooming aspheric. That’s simple and reliable. And doesn’t add friction. Wink
Funtastic
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JaredM wrote:
A build with his ‘5A’ linear bistro driver delviering 4.62A and WF1 in an M2 yielded 80Klux. I think there’s more left on the table if there an AR/ultraclear lens and a bit more current. This is a SUPER setup IMO.

As Lexel mentioned above, 4-4.5A is best for reliability.

Bistro? Don’t you mean Biscotti?

Biscotti version uses his temp driver which only pushes 4.3A on my W1, does Biscotti increase the current? I thought it would be the same

Texas Ace Lumen Tube calibrated with maukka lights

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Funtastic wrote:
JaredM wrote:
A build with his ‘5A’ linear bistro driver delviering 4.62A and WF1 in an M2 yielded 80Klux. I think there’s more left on the table if there an AR/ultraclear lens and a bit more current. This is a SUPER setup IMO.

As Lexel mentioned above, 4-4.5A is best for reliability.

Bistro? Don’t you mean Biscotti?

Biscotti version uses his temp driver which only pushes 4.3A on my W1, does Biscotti increase the current? I thought it would be the same

I don’t think the firmware changes the current. I measured another driver running an SST20 at 4.28A. I could have had a measurement/zeroing error. Also, please excuse my misnaming of the FW. I meant Biscotti.

As for reliability, I think 4A/mm2 is pushing the limits. I’m obviously chasing some numbers here which is admittedly not practical. Just having fun with it. For a duty/EDC light, I’d run much more conservative drive levels.

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Funtastic wrote:
JaredM wrote:
A build with his ‘5A’ linear bistro driver delviering 4.62A and WF1 in an M2 yielded 80Klux. I think there’s more left on the table if there an AR/ultraclear lens and a bit more current. This is a SUPER setup IMO.

As Lexel mentioned above, 4-4.5A is best for reliability.

Bistro? Don’t you mean Biscotti?

Biscotti version uses his temp driver which only pushes 4.3A on my W1, does Biscotti increase the current? I thought it would be the same

Convoy’s new 17 mm 5A driver with biscotti uses temp regulation.

Get rid of the NTC to eliminate the temperature stepdown and allow max current

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It’s still outputting max current until the step-down occurs, right?

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probably not, since the NTC is an analog element.
It sets the current limit depending on the actual temperature

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Yokiamy wrote:
probably not, since the NTC is an analog element. It sets the current limit depending on the actual temperature

That’s good, I’m not wanting anymore than what I’m already getting but considered removing the NTC.

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Finally received my Convoy hosts

ANSI Results using the white flat 1mm with Convoy’s 4 mode driver at 4.3A

C8+ – 180,630 cd = 850m

M21C – 307,800 = 1.1km

L21A – 481,950 = 1.38km

Anyone know of a host I can use that’s slightly larger than the L21A?

Texas Ace Lumen Tube calibrated with maukka lights

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Funtastic wrote:
Finally received my Convoy hosts

ANSI Results using the white flat 1mm with Convoy’s 4 mode driver at 4.3A

C8+ – 180,630 cd = 850m

M21C – 307,800 = 1.1km

L21A – 481,950 = 1.38km

Anyone know of a host I can use that’s slightly larger than the L21A?

Cool Thumbs Up
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Funtastic wrote:
Finally received my Convoy hosts

ANSI Results using the white flat 1mm with Convoy’s 4 mode driver at 4.3A

C8+ – 180,630 cd = 850m

M21C – 307,800 = 1.1km

L21A – 481,950 = 1.38km

Anyone know of a host I can use that’s slightly larger than the L21A?

Nice work. About 170kcd is what I saw from a C8 reflector. Didn’t put time into tuning it but it looked pretty much maxed out.

As for hosts larger than the L21A, you have the Convoy L6 + SMO reflector and the Noctigon K1 which will both yield around 600kcd at the same drive current. $$ start going up fast past ~60mm.

This zoomie has been in my AE cart and tempting me for months now. Nobody has mentioned or reviewed it. The HT line-up use acrylic lens, which really saves weight, cost, and improves performance on these large diameters. 66mm lens.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000321611399.html

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This on on Ali worked out well for me, though the actual lens width was smaller than I thought. Much, much prefer an e-switch to run Anduril.

717 kcd, mod here: http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1634334#comment-1634334

 

luminarium iaculator
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Tom E wrote:

This on on Ali worked out well for me, though the actual lens width was smaller than I thought. Much, much prefer an e-switch to run Anduril.


717 kcd, mod here: http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1634334#comment-1634334


 

Very nice mod and results. Thumbs Up I haven’t see mod yet in that ultra deep thread… Deep like an ocean Smile

I despise throat switches and other redundant parts on flashlights like usb charging ports that seems like imposed standard now-days…
I would also like to see downsizing trend from manufacturers rather than overgrowing one…

And when we talk about aspherics imho there is light/lens size margin when the light becomes completely useless from usability side.

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luminarium iaculator wrote:

There are waterproof zoomies on a market so it should not be problem to make them waterproof especially if they will use acrylic lenses instead of glass ones. Obviously only Brinyte (and maybe just few manufacturers) figured that /acrylic plastic is more consistent, more resilient (shockproof + lighter) and better for mass production than glass.
Lets say twist zoomie: double o ring at the tail, double oring at lens section, and double oring on throat section… More than waterproof Smile


It will never be completely waterproof because there needs to be a way for air to get in and out of the head when the lens moves closer/farther.
If you completely sealed a zoomie with o-rings then the internal air pressure would make the head simply bounce back into the original position.

Agro wrote:

My favourite approach to waterproofing is to add a secondary lens, could be a flat one that completely seals the light engine. Effectively a waterproof mule with added zooming aspheric. That’s simple and reliable. And doesn’t add friction. Wink

This is the only real solution to waterproofing ^
An extra flat lens at the front, like with reflector lights, that doesn’t move.
That keeps the internal volume constant.
The next challenge is moving the lens inside the sealed head from the outside without letting water in.
One option would be to use magnets, which can work through the aluminum body, or have a physical notch somewhow that then needs to be sealed with o-rings on the outside.
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Enderman wrote:
luminarium iaculator wrote:

There are waterproof zoomies on a market so it should not be problem to make them waterproof especially if they will use acrylic lenses instead of glass ones. Obviously only Brinyte (and maybe just few manufacturers) figured that /acrylic plastic is more consistent, more resilient (shockproof + lighter) and better for mass production than glass.
Lets say twist zoomie: double o ring at the tail, double oring at lens section, and double oring on throat section… More than waterproof Smile


It will never be completely waterproof because there needs to be a way for air to get in and out of the head when the lens moves closer/farther.
If you completely sealed a zoomie with o-rings then the internal air pressure would make the head simply bounce back into the original position.

Agro wrote:

My favourite approach to waterproofing is to add a secondary lens, could be a flat one that completely seals the light engine. Effectively a waterproof mule with added zooming aspheric. That’s simple and reliable. And doesn’t add friction. Wink

This is the only real solution to waterproofing ^
An extra flat lens at the front, like with reflector lights, that doesn’t move.
That keeps the internal volume constant.
The next challenge is moving the lens inside the sealed head from the outside without letting water in.
One option would be to use magnets, which can work through the aluminum body, or have a physical notch somewhow that then needs to be sealed with o-rings on the outside.

It’s not the only one. And may not be the best one.
The one that I see as potentially best is with use of air permeable membrane (gore-tex-like) that allows air to move in and out without letting water in.
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Enderman wrote:
luminarium iaculator wrote:

There are waterproof zoomies on a market so it should not be problem to make them waterproof especially if they will use acrylic lenses instead of glass ones. Obviously only Brinyte (and maybe just few manufacturers) figured that /acrylic plastic is more consistent, more resilient (shockproof + lighter) and better for mass production than glass.
Lets say twist zoomie: double o ring at the tail, double oring at lens section, and double oring on throat section… More than waterproof Smile


It will never be completely waterproof because there needs to be a way for air to get in and out of the head when the lens moves closer/farther.
If you completely sealed a zoomie with o-rings then the internal air pressure would make the head simply bounce back into the original position
Agro wrote:
My favourite approach to waterproofing is to add a secondary lens, could be a flat one that completely seals the light engine. Effectively a waterproof mule with added zooming aspheric. That’s simple and reliable. And doesn’t add friction. Wink
This is the only real solution to waterproofing ^ An extra flat lens at the front, like with reflector lights, that doesn’t move. That keeps the internal volume constant. The next challenge is moving the lens inside the sealed head from the outside without letting water in. One option would be to use magnets, which can work through the aluminum body, or have a physical notch somewhow that then needs to be sealed with o-rings on the outside.

Well Enderman we don’t actually need diving zoomie. Or maybe you need one? LOL Orings are more than suitable for regular IPX something usage of light. I did tests where I tossed regular 1503 light just modded with different thicker sets of oring into a bucket of 25 liters of water for 24 hours and there were no water leak into light or switch Wink . Brinyte B158 should also survive mentioned situation but without any modding with better orings.

I don’t find extra flat lens on top as necessity for waterproofing but it ain’t bad as idea… There are zoomies that use front lens Curui 1706 and CRELANT 7G5CH.

But simple double Oring combination everywhere and I would prefer thread twisting/rotating zoomie since your mentioned effect “internal air pressure would make the head simply bounce back into the original position” will not happen with threaded zoomie action because such action is powerful enough to squeeze air out of the zoomie neck section with double(or even triple oring) during head twisting action.

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I had a look at the zoomie lights mentioned but not really much use for such a tiny hotspot. Sounds ridiculously small for Tom to have trouble measuring the lux

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Does any know which driver I could use in my BLF GT with the W1. I’m sure it would have ridiculous throw.

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