Richie086, just out of curiosity, does your driver look anything like kramer's above -the East-092? Guess not. Glad now I didn't jump on that FandyFire version when I wanted it so badly.
-Garry
Hey Garry, checking Kramer's post #119, I have the same East-092, but the large chip on mine is labeled 532 and Kramer's may have been 529. So something is slightly different.
Perhaps it's just the way the chip is programmed for high output? Thanks.
-Garry
I realize that we're months beyond confirming that this light takes 26650, but I saw this thread kept popping up again, and well, Hill's post is on page one, and I have both lights so...
If anyone who hasn't gotten their hands on one yet wants an appreciation for how much of a monster this thing is compared to the "already larger than a C8, 22650 capable" SmallSun ZY-C37 that Hill referenced above, here's a side by side comparison:
And just for S&Gs, here they are against standard C2 and C8 sizes:
I didn't realize how big this light was until you compared it to a C8!!!
Nice the head is huge compared to C8
Pic of my HD2010 orig. Pill and a 7135 V2 Driver with 2 added 7135:
You can´t use the C8 Pill, but you can use the Brass ring.
A little bit of rasp and it can be pressed in the orig. HD2010 Pill. ;)
Only difference between UF & Fandy is: LED-Protector (Fandy=Paperboard, UF=Plastic) / Tailcap (UF=GITD) / Clicky (UF=better one).
Hi folks,
Something weird. Before going out to take a beam shot of this FandyFire HD-2010, I checked my AW-2600, 18650 battery that I was going to toss into it since I don't have any 26650's yet. Just for kicks, I rechecked the tail-readings again, and this time on HIGH mode I got a rock solid 3.30a. Than I tossed in a fully charged Redilast 3100, and I got 3.0a at the tail. Very strange, it wasn't near this good several days ago. Anyway, all is great with this light and a real beautiful design. Glad you all recommended it.
I have found tailcap current to vary greatly depending on how tight the cell sits in between the springs (at least in the UF HD2010). If I compress the +B spring all the way flat I get a tailcap current of 5.52A. If I just touch the probe to the -B (without compressing the +B spring at all) I get a reading of 4A.
Pics... (again this is for the Ultra HD2010. I am not sure if the Fandy HD2010 behaves the same way).
Battery Space LiNiCoMn 26650:
With a Sanyo 18650...
Thank you Kramer, I forgot about you posting about this. I just assumed it would only happen with the Ultrafire version, but I guess any version may act that way. The other day when I first check the tail readings, the pressure I used holding the probes was very little. Tonight I was more more aggressive when checking it and it came right up to where I felt it should be. A really great and bright light this is.
I killed 2 HD2010´s with full charged 26650 and pressing the spring.
Highest reading was over 7A, too much for the LED......dark.
Modded with 7135 driver and XM-L on copper the flashlight is one of the best!
Why does pressing the battery against the spring draw more current?
You're increasing contact.
Thats good to know, I was considering some copper-braid low resistance mods for this light and decided not, since i have no way to measure the actual current through the LED.
Hey Andi, where did you get a copper bonded XML, what flux BIN is it? I already have a 3.5A 7135 driver incoming for this light.
I am thinking a U2 copper bonded, 3.5A and a UCL lens and I should be at / near 50K lux.
This light modded has over 50KLux. ;)
My LED was from LED-Tech (Germany): XM-L U2 1C.
Hi folks, would anyone have any idea what the problem may be with my Fandyfire HD-2010. When I use my 4Seven 26650 battery or my KK ICR 26650E, it works perfectly and switches to any of the 3 modes without problem. However, when I toss in one of my new Trustfire 5000 button top batteries it'll only work in high mode. I only have 2 Trustfire's and it does the same thing with either one of them. Any ideas?
What happens when you unscrew the tailcap a little to alleviate force on the cell... same thing?
Is the pill screwed tight into the host body? If you unscrew the bezel (carefully so you don't tear the gasket), and remove the reflector can you mode flip without the reflector? Suspecting there may be a LED+ short to the reflector.
I've tried unscrewing the tailcap in small increments to the point it pops off, including the battery tube. Having to much pressure doesn't seem to be the problem. The pill is screwed down and tight with a bit of AS-5 on the threads. Even with the reflector removed, it will only run on high mode with the Trustfire 5000.
Yeah, my first thought was the reflector shorting, but I did the mod you came up with you did on your Ultrafire version. This is the weirdest thing I've seen in a flashlight. The other brand batteries work great in this flashlight. Something about the Trustfire cell is the cause. I'll keep at it and post if I come up with something. Thanks for the suggestions.
that is completely bizzarre.
can you unscrew the battery tube and wire the battery straight to the DC-DC board +Vin and -Vin?... just clear the table and omit any side affects of the tailcap and body all together. See if you can mode flip it by touching wires to the DC-DC board.