Noctigon DM11 high CRI middle range thrower available

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Firelight2
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anonymous_user wrote:
Are there any photos of the KR4 tailcap with trit?

Also have any owners of the KR4 tested pocket carrying and whether it is prone to accidental activations?

I’m pocket carrying mine. No issues so far, but since I’m mostly at home I’m carrying less pocket-stuffing in my pockets so it’s harder to test than usual.

  • Overall, I’d rate the switch more resistant to accidental pocket activation than any of my stock FW3 series switches, but not by a huge amount.
  • It’s less resistant to pocket activation than any of my FW3 series lights with the o-ring switch mod. And far less so than my stiffest modded FW3 switch which requires something like 5 lbs of pressure to activate.

hcanning
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MNLegoBoy wrote:
lionheart_2281 wrote:
Hank Wang wrote:
Limited edition!https://intl-outdoor.com/media/wysiwyg/colorful/IMG_3286_1100px_txt_1.jpg!

A and D are absolutely gorgeous, when are they being released? Must have


They’re released already

Hey Hank, these are absolutely stunning. Wow. How “limited edition” are these? I.e. how many do you expect to produce?

Notable lights: Q8 with 4 x 3V XHP50.2, bypassed springs, brass driver and tailcap screws, Anduril firmware, removed anodisation, AR glass, warm white switch LEDs (16,800lm)  |  Convoy S2+ with triple Luxeon V 4000k, Led4Power B4 Driver, Carclo 10507, bypassed springs (2900lm)  |   D18 in sand  |  D4V2 in sand  |  D4S in grey  |   FW3A with warm white XP-L HI  |   KR4 Mule in blue

SKV89
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Hank Wang wrote:
Limited edition!https://intl-outdoor.com/media/wysiwyg/colorful/IMG_3286_1100px_txt_1.jpg!

Wow looks really nice. Would have bought it if it used the KR4 driver. The 1×7135 driver makes it not very useful for me. Hope we will see similar limited edition for the kr4.

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Firelight2 wrote:
anonymous_user wrote:
Are there any photos of the KR4 tailcap with trit?

Also have any owners of the KR4 tested pocket carrying and whether it is prone to accidental activations?

I’m pocket carrying mine. No issues so far, but since I’m mostly at home I’m carrying less pocket-stuffing in my pockets so it’s harder to test than usual.

  • Overall, I’d rate the switch more resistant to accidental pocket activation than any of my stock FW3 series switches, but not by a huge amount.
  • It’s less resistant to pocket activation than any of my FW3 series lights with the o-ring switch mod. And far less so than my stiffest modded FW3 switch which requires something like 5 lbs of pressure to activate.

That seems disappointing.
chrisddo
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anonymous_user wrote:
Firelight2 wrote:
anonymous_user wrote:
Are there any photos of the KR4 tailcap with trit?

Also have any owners of the KR4 tested pocket carrying and whether it is prone to accidental activations?

I’m pocket carrying mine. No issues so far, but since I’m mostly at home I’m carrying less pocket-stuffing in my pockets so it’s harder to test than usual.

  • Overall, I’d rate the switch more resistant to accidental pocket activation than any of my stock FW3 series switches, but not by a huge amount.
  • It’s less resistant to pocket activation than any of my FW3 series lights with the o-ring switch mod. And far less so than my stiffest modded FW3 switch which requires something like 5 lbs of pressure to activate.

That seems disappointing.

He’s saying the switch is much better and less prone to accidental activations Like the FW series. How is that disappointing?

Firelight2
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Some more observations:

  • Tailcap lockout: The KR4 has true tailcap lockout. A quarter-turn is enough to completely disconnect power from the driver. This is different from the FW3 series where partially unscrewing the head or tail only disconnects the switch while leaving the driver powered.

  • Loose pocket carry: So far, I’m quite liking this light. I removed the clip and am now carrying it loose in my pocket. The fluted body shape feels much better in the hand than an FW3A, and between the flat knurling and grippier anodizing it feels much more secure in the hand when held in a handshake grip, while being about the same with a cigar grip. No accidental pocket activation yet, but that doesn’t prove a lot.
  • Output: It’s as bright as the Emisar D4 and brighter than an FW3A. It also seems to manage heat better than either. It seems able to maintain high brightness longer than either the D4 or FW3 series.
  • Moonlight mode: at least on my sample, minimum brightness is more of a “very low”. It’s not quite as dim as the moonlight mode on my D4 and FW3 series lights. I assume this is due to the constant current driver. I consider “moonlight” to be dim enough you can stare directly into the emitters from close range. The KR4’s dimmest setting seems just outside that range.
  • Clip o-ring – In the FW3A if you remove the tailcap the clip pops up and the little o-ring above it tends to fall out of position. The purpose of that o-ring is to prevent the clip from spinning when the light is sealed. In the KR4, that o-ring has its own slot. In addition to preventing the clip spinning, it also securely retains the clip in position. When you take the tailcap off to change the battery, the clip and its o-ring stay in position.
Scallywag
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Firelight2 wrote:
* Moonlight mode: at least on my sample, minimum brightness is more of a “very low”. It’s not quite as dim as the moonlight mode on my D4 and FW3 series lights. I assume this is due to the constant current driver. I consider “moonlight” to be dim enough you can stare directly into the emitters from close range. The KR4’s dimmest setting seems just outside that range.

Oh, that’s a shame. My D4 is just within that range where I can stare directly at it.
middle age man
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Is the ramp floor set to 1/150?

ValuseekeR
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Firelight2 wrote:
Some more observations:…

Appreciate the posts on your KR4. Looking forward to mine. Ordered the 3000k, hope the tint is decent.

Hank Wang
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Firelight2 wrote:
Some more observations:
  • Tailcap lockout: The KR4 has true tailcap lockout. A quarter-turn is enough to completely disconnect power from the driver. This is different from the FW3 series where partially unscrewing the head or tail only disconnects the switch while leaving the driver powered.

  • Loose pocket carry: So far, I’m quite liking this light. I removed the clip and am now carrying it loose in my pocket. The fluted body shape feels much better in the hand than an FW3A, and between the flat knurling and grippier anodizing it feels much more secure in the hand when held in a handshake grip, while being about the same with a cigar grip. No accidental pocket activation yet, but that doesn’t prove a lot.
When you remove the pocket clip, please do not forget there is lanyard ring which can also be installed and try.

https://intl-outdoor.com, Noctigon, Emisar, flashlight components.

Firelight2
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Hank Wang wrote:
Firelight2 wrote:
Some more observations:
  • Tailcap lockout: The KR4 has true tailcap lockout. A quarter-turn is enough to completely disconnect power from the driver. This is different from the FW3 series where partially unscrewing the head or tail only disconnects the switch while leaving the driver powered.

  • Loose pocket carry: So far, I’m quite liking this light. I removed the clip and am now carrying it loose in my pocket. The fluted body shape feels much better in the hand than an FW3A, and between the flat knurling and grippier anodizing it feels much more secure in the hand when held in a handshake grip, while being about the same with a cigar grip. No accidental pocket activation yet, but that doesn’t prove a lot.
When you remove the pocket clip, please do not forget there is lanyard ring which can also be installed and try.
Good point. The light comes stock with a lanyard ring that can be used instead of the pocket clip. It also comes with a lanyard.
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chrisddo wrote:
anonymous_user wrote:
Firelight2 wrote:
anonymous_user wrote:
Are there any photos of the KR4 tailcap with trit?

Also have any owners of the KR4 tested pocket carrying and whether it is prone to accidental activations?

I’m pocket carrying mine. No issues so far, but since I’m mostly at home I’m carrying less pocket-stuffing in my pockets so it’s harder to test than usual.

  • Overall, I’d rate the switch more resistant to accidental pocket activation than any of my stock FW3 series switches, but not by a huge amount.
  • It’s less resistant to pocket activation than any of my FW3 series lights with the o-ring switch mod. And far less so than my stiffest modded FW3 switch which requires something like 5 lbs of pressure to activate.

That seems disappointing.

He’s saying the switch is much better and less prone to accidental activations Like the FW series. How is that disappointing?


He also said it wasn’t a huge amount more resistant and that it is less resistant than the FW3A with the o-ring mod. I was hoping for a bigger difference.
pol77
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Hank Wang wrote:
Limited edition!https://intl-outdoor.com/media/wysiwyg/colorful/IMG_3286_1100px_txt_1.jpg!

Those are incredible! I already have 2 D4V2 Ti but I ordered the Blue Swirls, including 18350 tube, with SST20 3000K. Can you please verify these LEDs are of a below the BBL tint?

lightdecay
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Unless it changed recently, Hank’s SST-20 3000K is HB4 bin, above BBL. You could use a Zircon filter to remove some of the yellow/green.

Would you be interested in SST-20 2700K JA3 bin, below BBL? You could try emailing Hank, maybe he still has some left.

lightdecay
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I just noticed, Blue Swirls are gone Sad

pol77
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Thank you lightdecay. My light was shipped today. I really hope it has below bbl tint or I will definitely have to reflow some other LEDs.

Hank, do you know what tint are my SST20 LEDs?

Hank Wang
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pol77 wrote:
Thank you lightdecay. My light was shipped today. I really hope it has below bbl tint or I will definitely have to reflow some other LEDs.

Hank, do you know what tint are my SST20 LEDs?

If it’s SST-20 4000K, then it is either FA3 or FD2.

https://intl-outdoor.com, Noctigon, Emisar, flashlight components.

lightdecay
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Hank Wang wrote:
pol77 wrote:
Thank you lightdecay. My light was shipped today. I really hope it has below bbl tint or I will definitely have to reflow some other LEDs.

Hank, do you know what tint are my SST20 LEDs?

If it’s SST-20 4000K, then it is either FA3 or FD2.
He ordered SST-20 3000K. Still HB4? Any chance of HD2 bin in the near future?
SKV89
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Hank Wang wrote:
pol77 wrote:
Thank you lightdecay. My light was shipped today. I really hope it has below bbl tint or I will definitely have to reflow some other LEDs.

Hank, do you know what tint are my SST20 LEDs?

If it’s SST-20 4000K, then it is either FA3 or FD2.

I thought it was FA3 only the last time I asked. So you ordered a FD2 batch also? Please only use FA3 because it is noticeably less yellow/green than the FD2. Of course if you can get FA1, FA4, FD1, FD4 bin would be even better. Wink

pol77
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I ordered SSTSST-20 3000K indeed.

Hikelite
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SKV89 wrote:
Please only use FA3 because it is noticeably less yellow/green than the FD2. Of course if you can get FA1, FA4, FD1, FD4 bin would be even better. Wink

FD2 is right beside FA3 the difference is 125K, it is very little, it is neither above BBL and neither a thousands of Kelvin distance, to be more “yellow” and “green”

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CM2010
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What size trits for the KR4?

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Hikelite wrote:
SKV89 wrote:
Please only use FA3 because it is noticeably less yellow/green than the FD2. Of course if you can get FA1, FA4, FD1, FD4 bin would be even better. Wink

FD2 is right beside FA3 the difference is 125K, it is very little, it is neither above BBL and neither a thousands of Kelvin distance, to be more “yellow” and “green”

!{width:20%}https://i.imgur.com/aNzGhY2.jpg!

I think the confusion is due to some test samples (don’t remember the source for them) sent to members being basically confirmed to be a different bin than they labeled as IIRC.

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A few notes from my blue KR4 copy…

• The switch needs more travel to activate over my FW3A (gasket modded). It also feels & sounds a bit springy/grindy, especially on the edges, but works fine none the less. I will do some R&D to see if I can mod it in a similar fashion to the FW for a more consistent and stable feel.

• I chose a yellow tritium vial which works decent although it is quite dim like lower end watch hands. But still much better than the overpriced turboglow button switch and gasket on my FW3A which gasses out in minutes and is mostly unusable in pure darkness.

• Hank assured me my copy would be an FA3 iteration of the SST20 4000K. At first glance it looked quite neutral and devoid of greens throughout the ramp range. But after comparing it to my 219Bs, 219Cs, and other lights (going on 30+ now) I did notice a very slight tinge of green comparatively. Maybe I received an FD2 bin? Dunno. I used a 1/4 minus green filter and it has neutralized any green hues and I did not notice much OTF falloff in power. The beam pattern is a tad crunchy on these optics but only noticeable if you are up really close to a white all. Perhaps I need to do a DC Fix for a bit more blend or diffusion.

• Overall, the light feels a bit gritty out of the box but after several days of use it now feels quite smooth and grippy. I actually prefer the heft over my other 18650 lights, unlike most people, as it just feels more solid and likely able to absorb and dissipate heat better throughout the core.

• I was surprised that the Clip wasn’t as ghastly as it looked in pictures. It’s quite robust and geometric/modern looking. Pretty solid if you ask me. Personally, I prefer lanyards (which is included) so i switched to that setup.

Here are some awful crappy phone pics, including a corner beam shot with the minus green, that actually looks fairly close to IRL (to my old eyes at least). My ceiling is white and the wall is a basic gray.

NOTE: The KR4 color is more of a denim blue rather than the more muted cyan on the D4S models. I’ve seen many quoting they were “ready to order the cyan kr4” They are very different blues.

Cheers.



SKV89
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Hikelite wrote:
SKV89 wrote:
Please only use FA3 because it is noticeably less yellow/green than the FD2. Of course if you can get FA1, FA4, FD1, FD4 bin would be even better. Wink

FD2 is right beside FA3 the difference is 125K, it is very little, it is neither above BBL and neither a thousands of Kelvin distance, to be more “yellow” and “green”

!{width:70%}https://i.imgur.com/aNzGhY2.jpg!

In reality from my testing and others, the FA3 is noticeably less green than the FD2 bins (less positive duv). It is still not rosy by any means except on turbo. But it is decent enough to not be annoying.

I haven’t seen a 219C 4000K below the BBL. Which 219C light did you compare it to?

chrisddo
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SKV89 wrote:
Hikelite wrote:
SKV89 wrote:
Please only use FA3 because it is noticeably less yellow/green than the FD2. Of course if you can get FA1, FA4, FD1, FD4 bin would be even better. Wink

FD2 is right beside FA3 the difference is 125K, it is very little, it is neither above BBL and neither a thousands of Kelvin distance, to be more “yellow” and “green”

!{width:70%}https://i.imgur.com/aNzGhY2.jpg!

In reality from my testing and others, the FA3 is noticeably less green than the FD2 bins (less positive duv). It is still not rosy by any means except on turbo. But it is decent enough to not be annoying.

I haven’t seen a 219C 4000K below the BBL. Which 219C light did you compare it to?

I have 2 FW3As…an XPL HI 3D and a 219C 4000K as well as a MF01 219C 4000K as well as an EDC18 in the same guise…they all look very similar and somehow made the KR4 copy I received look a touch green. shrug I have a ton of different gels so it didn’t bother me much to add the minus green. Otherwise, in a vacuum, I’m sure for 90% of most flashaholics are fine with the way the KR4 performs out of the box. CRI babies nonwithstanding.

Here is a graph I screencapped from a poster in a past FW3A post…I don’t remember the poster name or when it was exactly…maybe can help everyone with some insight.

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Any chance of the KR4 or similar battery/heat sink with a side switch?

Are there primers on the differences between the XPL Hi and HD?

Thanks!

atobe
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Harborseal wrote:
Any chance of the KR4 or similar battery/heat sink with a side switch?

Are there primers on the differences between the XPL Hi and HD?

Thanks!

The D4v2?

"☚ (<‿<)☚"

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Harborseal wrote:
Any chance of the KR4 or similar battery/heat sink with a side switch? Are there primers on the differences between the XPL Hi and HD? Thanks!

The HI is a factory dedomed version of the HD - HI has more throw, less lumens. The bin spec (V2, V3, V6, W2, etc.) is the rating of lumens output. The typically highest for a HI is V3, and for the HD V6. There are some V4 rated HI's, and W2 rated HD's around though.

Now an additional feature of the HI version is a smooth, nice beam - no yellow or green rings, consistent tint throughout. The XPL2's are almost exactly opposite with a terribly inconsistent beam.

I really like the newer HI V2 5D's, but even the V4 3C doesn't look bad. A 3C is typically towards the green side, but in a HI LED, dunno why but it looks pretty darn good. Think there are V2 3A's around as well. For CREE's, the A's and D's are always better than the B's and C's because they are less green.

This chart helps: https://flashlightwiki.com/images/c/cb/Ansi-white.jpg

 

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