Confirmed.
When I got mine, one of the first things I noticed was that moonlight wasn’t nearly as low as on my D4, D4v2 and FW3A.
However, I just tried reconfiguring the ramp to minimum and now it’s much lower… about the same as those other lights.
Either I accidentally set the minimum ramp at some point before checking moonlight or the version of Anduril installed comes preset at slightly higher than minimum moonlight.
The KR4 is with higher moonmode preset.
Watch from 30 seconds.
I have tried setting the ramp but it makes no difference. Is there a guide on how to do it? Just in case I am doing it wrong 
Its good to know that there IS a moonlight.
As you were, I was doing something wrong
KR4 constant current can be as high as 5A, and the moon mode can be very low, about 0.35lm to the lowest.
However, if you set the moon mode to the lowest (1/150), you may have two problems, one is that there is a delay
when you try to on the moon mode, the second is that the moon mode may not able to be powered up. This is the user’s risk,
that is why we set the default moon mode higher (3/150).
To me that is an acceptable trade off.
Thanks, everyone, for your help.
Thanks, Hank, for explaining this.
Mike
Mine cyan KR4 arrived today. Works great out of the box, the aux leds are pretty sweet. The way reds pop under the 3000k sst-20s is awesome. Just waiting on sundown to really put it to use!
Hank? any plans for some large overpowered flashlights this year? Maybe something even bigger than D18.
Any plans for a 21700 version of this light?
Interested as well!
I think the updated D1S with 21700 might be next?
The K1 is a level beyond the D1s. While very compact for it’s performance, it’s still significantly bigger than the D1s. Those larger machined parts are also going to mean higher cost:
Waiting on mine in the mail. In the meantime, will a longer protected 18350 cell fit?
Edit: was looking at the Keepower P1835C2. Should work fine since the cell is 35mm long but I am looking at others that are protected and are 39mm.
That’s factory reset mode. It’s what happens when the button is held while connecting power. If the body tube isn’t connected, it can still receive a little bit of power through the switch, which causes the behavior you described.
So it sounds like the parts aren’t threaded together correctly.
Ish. Not really. It can still activate factory reset mode while the tailcap is loose.
Yes, this light is meant to have the battery changed at the tail, not the head.
In the default configuration, the smooth ramp floor is 3/150 instead of 1/150. It can be configured lower, but could potentially be unstable on some devices because it’s outside the regulation chip’s supported operating specs. So the default is the lowest in-spec level, and it has the ability to go lower if desired.
A while back, the default behavior changed when turning on the light.
This can be changed by flipping a compile-time option and reflashing the firmware.
Additionally, if the KR4’s moon level is at 1/150 instead of the default 3/150, it may take the driver a moment to turn the LEDs on. That’s because the lowest level is out of the regulator’s specified operating range. It technically shouldn’t work at all, but it does, so it was included as a non-default optional extra.
It may also help to set the floor to 2/150 instead of 1/150. This is the same level, in theory, but it runs the MCU twice as fast… and that extra power draw is just enough to make the regulator run slightly higher.
In any case, the lowest officially supported level is about 2 lm. But there’s an unsupported optional ~0.2 lm mode available for those who want to try it.
Thanks, TK. Well explained.
Noctigon K1, XHP35 HI version in stock.
Hank, any plans for a SBT90.2 version?