Has anyone tried the sst-20 version? I’m partial to that emitter. You thoughts, please.
Just buy the green osram to become a jedi :sunglasses:
The K1 doesn’t come with a cell, does it? So would a high-drain 18650 (in a size adapter) produce equivalent light output in the K1? Like, say, a 30Q? I already have a bunch of those, and shorter runtime wouldn’t bother me.
As far as 21700 cells go, I think I saw some posts saying the 50E is about the best, but since the 30T and 40T have higher continuous-amp ratings wouldn’t they be better still for output? 
(again, sacrificing runtime)
No, the driver in the K1 is regulated so no matter which cell you use, it won’t draw more than a specified amount of current. I think the maximum current depends on which emitter you choose, but they are all within what any standard 18650 cell can supply.
Thanks for the info.
The XHP35 Hi version is now available to order.
top tier light with a low tier emitter
Thanks for the heads up!
Hank, do you have lumen or CRI numbers for the XHP35 you added?
The lumen and Cd numbers are listed on his webpage.
Therapist: and what do we do when we’re quarantined?
Me: add to cart
Therapist: no
Hank Wang: I just put a boost driver in the K1
I don’t see the lumens listed on Hank’s site for this particular Osram LED in the K1. Does anyone know?
lawallac, have you received this light yet?
Based on the drive current of 2A and tests of the XHP35 HI, that’s likely about 2300 emitter lumens for the 5000 and 6500K versions, so around 2000 out the front, which works out to about 145 cd/lm (it’s the least throwy emitter). A bit less for the warmer ones.
Which one will you get Zak? Coldy throwy or warmy yummy?
I bought 4000K. I don’t know the tint and CRI bin yet, and there’s a good chance I’ll be replacing the emitter with my own, also in 4000K. The ones I have where I am are 80 CRI, but I own a few in 90 CRI that I probably won’t see until travel is a reasonable thing to do again.
The cooler tints are farther throwing on paper (not by much though) but there’s so much scatter/blowback that half the time you can’t see what you’re aiming at. If there’s 5000K or warmer available for a thrower I will ALWAYS go for that.
I almost think I should have gone for 3000K just to try that in a thrower.
Would the Samsung 50E be more suitable with the XHP version for increased runtime or is the 40T necessary for achieve max output?
If it’s a good boost driver, it won’t care much about battery voltage. I’ll be sad if that’s not the case.