Charger for 26650

What about these (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32989670019.html?spm=2114.12010612.8148356.5.6acf6d6cCjCPaa) instead of what I ordered. They wouldn’t arrive to me until around May 23rd.

The retrofit on the Warsun x50 looks too difficult (labor intensive) and costly.

Thanks much! I think I’ll order one of those.

Do you know if these are decent batteries? https://www.newegg.com/ebl-2-pack-lithium-batteries/p/14R-01BT-000W8

You linked a classic C8, from Convoy. Classic among the classics. With an SST-40 emitter, and up to 5 A (4 and 12 modes) or up to 8 A ramping driver. It's a great flashlight without a doubt, but throwy. With an SST-40 driven that way, 50+ Kcd on high. As headlights for a bike (do you mean bycicle?), may do depending on the distance you aim to be looking at. I once took my up to ≈100 Kcd modified Convoy M1 for a jogging walk at night, and returned home inmediately to swap the flashlight, too throwy even in medium modes. For a bycicle ride you want more distance, and so the SST-40 C8 in some medium mode may be pleasurable to use. Wait for other's opinions.

That Warsun X50 retrofit was pretty thorough. The main weak point by far is the hollow pill, to fix it finding a copper cap of suitable size could be the easiest path, if you can make it press fit inside the pill. It's some task already. Don't worry, we all buy some @#$% flashlights for a start.

Thanks, yes, bicycle.

I guess one of my earlier replies didn’t come through. I have a iNova T4 rechargable that I got 8-10 years ago. Still going strong with the original battery. I also have a T3 but I never have 123 batteries. I know they make rechargables. I need to get some. Do they make a ONE piece to take place of THREE 123’s?

And what’s a “throwy”? Throw away?

Checking back with you

Flashlights Mounted Bike Daytime Running Lights or Nighttime. Headlight S1200 Flashlights with Rowiz Flashlight mounts - YouTube

Just checked your video. I see these S1200s / Warsun X50s come with an annoying high - medium - low - strobe - SOS driver. The good point is that they use 26650s, which means extra runtime over 18650s or even 21700s.

Can't say for sure, but very likely. They probably are Power Long Battery INR26650-50A, a common good cell rewrapped by many. Check a couple reviews here and there. The most characteristic trait of PLB cells is that they're a little bit thicker than the rest at around ∅26.7-26.8 mm versus ∅26.2-26.3 mm, and so by measuring the EBLs you will know if they come from PLB factories or not. It's not the only 26650 manufacturer who does good 5000+ mAh 26650s at this moment, though.

Downloaded and checked the Inova T series instructions. The use of rechargeables with the T3 is not recommended, I guess this means its driver very likely lacks low voltage cut-off for 3x li-ion cells. Thus, while you could use 3x 16340 cells inside, you would have to use your intuition to know when to recharge the cells. With 3 cells in series the cut-off could be done between 7.5 to 9 V, but I guess that if you don't have the means to know when that happens, it can be a risky business.

If the T3 driver stops draining the cells at some voltage between 5 to 6 V (?), using 2x 16500 cells could be a possibility. However, 16500s are rare, this means little choices (if any) to choose from. Check this Vbatty ICR16500 1200mAh (Blue) review @ lygte-info.dk (it is an old cell type, but pretty 0K for a T3).

Check this AliExpress search for 16500s if you want to try. As you need button tops there are basically 2 possible choices from either Vbatty524 Store (this and that) or VbattyBigpower Store (that and this).

At last, throw is the term folks use here to define the range of a flashlight. It involves a combination of optics (to concentrate the beam) and emitter intensity. There's a standard which defines it, the ANSI/NEMA FL-1.

For example, the throw distance for the Inova T3 is defined as 187 meters, this means its maximum beam intensity is throw² × illuminance = 187² × 0.25 = ≈8.75 Kcd.

You don’t know much about this flashlight/battery stuff do you?? :laughing: :laughing:

So, the risk is killing the flashlight or just the battery? Or both?

Is it worth the risk to try the 16500? Would I test the voltage of one battery with a multimeter or both in a series?

Id be waiting till 6/23 if I order from Aliexpress. Boy, sure would be nice to have one local. Id go hog wild.

Well I know stuff and I like to share and explain what I know, so people can learn faster. I must admit at times I spend considerable amounts of effort in my posts, something I always look to balance as I also have quite many other matters to take care of. There is some people around here with more technical knowledge than me, others make and publish nice technical tests about leds or flashlights and even some “freaks” build amazing custom flashlights. Everyone adds his/her little bit.

Killing the flashlight or the batteries? I doubt the Inova T3 would die with 3x 16340 cells despite the additional voltage, I'm pretty sure its buck driver can stand some additional input volts. But as I say the main problem is that, since it is designed to run with CR123 primaries which need to be drained down to at least 2 - 1.5 V each to make use of their capacity at a drain current of 1ish A (check this Panasonic Lithium Industrial CR123A review @ lygte-info.dk), its buck driver is ultra unlikely to cut-off at anything above 6 - 5 V, and that if it cuts at all. So, 2x 16500s will make the T3 run well, until it drains the cells and you can know how low does it go. If it goes just a little bit too low, 4 - 5 volts, it could be bearable in my opinion. Some folks may complain in this respect, but cutting off a li-ion cell so low (2 - 2.5 V) is still 0K even if it may have a little impact in their lifespan. However, if you get the cells, try and find the T3 drains them overly low (lack of cut-off) my advice in that case would be inmediate recharge (to some resting voltage, 3.7 - 3.9 V) and finding an alternative application for them. They are fairly cheap, what can you really lose?

In any case, it is best to buy a flashlight designed to run with li-ion cells and use it accordingly. A Convoy S2+, for example, is very affordable, runs on 18650s and most people around here has at least one.

You can test the cells in series, but I'd do it one by one. It is easier as I understand it and it also allows you to check how balanced is the pair (just in case).

Yes, you’re very throughout and knowledgeable and its VERY appreciative. So if I get the 16500 and do a test, I should see how long it will run until the cell is at 4 volts?

Honestly, this flashlight hasn’t been used in YEARS and its because I refuse to drain my bank account buying non-rechargeable batteries. Why did I buy it in the first place?? Well, I didn’t. It was a thoughtful gift. As such, I’d like to use it.

Once, i understand this better, I’ll feel confident in buying a few batteries and testing them based on your recommendations. I probably just need a clear plan to test them and the usage in this T3.

I now have a XTAR XC4 charger so hopefully i have that part covered.

Thanks again my friend. Also, you’re in Spain? I’ve been once.

You could ask Nite Ize if the Inova T3's driver has some sort of low voltage cut-off, or you can straight try.

Does the T3 gives some blinking warning when its inner CR123A batteries are low in juice? If so, this is a good sign as it will serve you with the 16500s. If it drains without warning until its led starts to become dimmer, bad news as it will not play good with li-ion cells. But even if it has low voltage warning, it may be set too low.

The Xtar VC4 (you meant VC4, doesn't it?) is a fine charger.

Spain yes, Murcia torrid southeast of Spain.

I’ll try giving them a call. They had good customer service last time I called. I misplaced the charger on my T5R when moving. They sent me one for FREE. Like a $25 item.

Honestly, I don’t remember about the low battery warning because it’s been so long since it’s been used and I’m getting old. lol. I searched around and also read the manual but I don’t see anything stating that it does. My T5 does but it has a lithium rechargeable.

Yes, the VC4, sorry. I made a separate post today in the subsection about the deal I got.

I was at Moron Air Base near Seville. I was stationed there for a brief period during the Gulf War.

Thanks again!

Hello! Just had a quarter day long hypoglycemia, it's 21:40+ and my late lunch is still over the table. Soo frustrating… :((

You mean Morón air base, with acute accent I guess. Because without it, LoL! So you were in the USAAF? I respect warfare issues, although I think there can always be better solutions.

I have to ask, do you have access to some battery spot welding machine, or can you hire the services of some keen battery expert colleague? I ask this because if you were to turn those 16500 cells into protected 16500 cells, your problem would be solved. Found a merchant in AliExpress selling protection board sets for 16650 cells, this can be used for 16500s you just need to give the attached wraps a 15 mm or 19/32" cut out:

  • https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32965141794.html 4 variants available. If I were to choose, I think I'd go with a flat cap kit. All of them should work, but bear in mind these are designed to be installed on regular flat top cells, and so in this case you would better get flat top 16500 cells.
  • https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32803180199.html This is another 16650 protection board sets sale link from the same seller (combines shipping). I am posting it just because there is 10 mm polyimide tape for sale, which is important imho (the protection sets are less desirable, only button tops and just a single wrap included).

When a protection board kit with N-channel MOSFETs is installed on a cell, cells are double-wrapped. The board's B- is spot welded to the cell cathode, and its P+/B+ input is connected to the cell anode with a thin nickel strip which goes along the cell body on top of the base wrap. It is very important to ensure perfect insulation of this nickel strip from the cell body, as the cell body is negative and the strip is positive. Thus, it is good practice to lay a strip of polyimide tape over the wrap along the body, and set the nickel strip over it. Once the protection board is set above the cell cathode and connected/welded to anode and cathode, the cell is then wrapped again after a new top is installed.

It can also be possible to install a protection board kit with solder (low temp preferred) and steel flux. I've soldered lots of cells building small battery packs. But I guess this is another story. LoL 22:30+ already…

Yeah, good luck managing that blood sugar. I’m diabetic myself.

Oh brother. Back to square one with these batteries for this flashlight?? Maybe I should sell it. Lol

Yes, Morón smarty pants. Yes USAF. Seville is very beautiful. I got to spend a full day there but that was it. Got lost on a bus. Couldn’t find anyone speaking English and I nearly missed my ride back to base. :slight_smile:

I really don’t know anyone that welds. Someone would probably charge me more than it’s worth. I like to say “not enough juice compared to the squeeze”.

I mean there’s lots of talented people around here. Would it most likely have to be someone experienced with batteries specifically?

That sounds very complicated to someone like me.

LoL! Yeah it can be challenging to go through an unknown city, especially if you can't speak the local language. I would probably need a notepad and a ball pen if I were to go to some of your cities, just in case. Written language is one thing, but to master spoken and heard language I'd need some practice.

Back to the T3, well, could you measure its battery tube internal diameter?

KeepPower commercializes a protected 17500 cell whose diameter is listed in NKON's website as 16.65 mm (it really is a protected 16500, thickened by the strip, wraps and etc.). It is sold in AliExpress, naturally, found a couple sellers shipping to USA. Here is the advertisement of the best looking one, ships to USA at $4.21 a pair with AliExpress Standard.

The KeepPower P1750C is also available at Illumination Supply (San Jose, California).

If the T3's battery tube isn't thick enough, you could still get some protected 14500s.

I would suspect this is fairly accurate. Inova T3 Battery Diameter - Album on Imgur

Yeah, my batteries came today. EBL 26650 5000 mAh 4-Pack - Album on Imgur

Charging away XTAR VC4 - EBL 26650 - Album on Imgur

16.74mm inner tube diameter, you can then be fairly sure that 2x KeepPower P1750Cs will fit inside. They're ≈3mm longer than 3x CR123As, but no big deal. Problem solved, I think.

Nothing to say about the EBLs other they must be good cells.

I was going to order but I noticed that the illumn site lists them at 17mm.

Wired4Speed, I really can't take a decision for you. However I am perfectly sure that the fellows at NKON, which I know are real battery wholesalers, know what they're doing. In any case, drop the fellows at Illumn an email, because that “17mm” really means nothing, imho. They've just stuck that number because that is the way KeepPower is dubbing the cell, 17500. But I am sure it is a 16ish millimeters wide cell which has been a small little bit thickened because of the double wrap and conductive strip. Ask them, I am sure they can tell you if the cell is at or below ∅16.74mm.

I will also say that it is ultra quite likely that KeepPower is using this same Vbatty ICR16500 cell Henrik reviewed, if only maybe from better OEM batches (Vbatty is a rewrapper, not a cell OEM). 16500 is a super rare format, and with a market that limited and low demand I really doubt other OEM besides Heter is making them.