From the product description (with pictures):
Triple Emitters with Optical Lens
3*Cree XPL-HI LED Cold White
Detectible stainless steel bezel enable the light to install the glow gadget
Triple TIR optical lens provides a smooth and wide beam
Thanks Muto for posting this EDC18 deal. Amazon estimates delivery will take one month.
Hopefully there will be an easy way to remove the light's tail magnet and replace it with a spacer so I can carry it clipped in the front pocket of my pants along with a minimalist wallet without having to worry about erasing the magnetic strips on credit and debit cards. My other front pocket is reserved just for my cell phone which I carefully guard against damage (my back pockets are empty for sitting comfort).
Not knowing anything about Vipon, I was apprehensive about signing up but will see how it goes.
Vipon works good and if you have another email available you can sign up again for another account. A lot of Amazon specials will be one per order but again if you have another person with Amazon give them the second code and rock and roll.
As far as delivery time Amazon is giving themselves plenty of buffer, if it says in stock you will probably get it a lot quicker than they are quoting. They quote May 16 right now on EDC18 which is only 3 weeks.
Last 2 orders I got were like a week to 10 days but as always YMMV.
Did not get the EDC18 as already have the FW3 and do not see any gain but think this one is built better as the FW3 has known issues.
Good deal they have on the IYP365 with Nichia goodness as well but have 3 of those so unless they do the pink one for the wife in the future will hold off on that.
Later,
Keith
I've ordered a bunch off of Vipon deals, as have many here - haven't had or heard or probs. Here's some pics of the EDC18:
This is how I poked out the driver. Desoldered the LED wires first, then light taps on the solder pick with the hammer till it broke the glue seal. You have to sort of feel around with the pick to be sure you are not on a component. Might make some damage - I'm usually lucky with this. If I have to hit it fairly hard, then chance of damage go up:
The MCPCB has some contaminate on it, looked like solder. I sanded it out and it came off easy, so pretty sure it was solder:
Our classic FET+7+1 design with the ATTiny85. I didn't trace down the FET, but I left it, though debated to swap it out with a known good one:
One more shot:
It's hard to see but there's a tiny green LED under the black part of the switch. The R10 is a 20K resistor from Batt+ to the green LED (direct wired).
Some details of the tear down:
- there's a small screw in the extra hole in the MCPCB. The screw doesn't hold anything down, but it's there to keep the MCPCB from rotating
- the board mounted switch is held on by a small amt of solder on the 4 pads, and this one has 2 plastic pins going into 2 holes in the PCB - no glue, but gives it some support and proper alignment. These switches are notorious for failing, least what I've seen. You can see there's only a tiny amt of solder on the 2 front contacts. Either the solder joint fails, or the PCB pads rip up. The switch may continue to function but becomes harder to press because internally, it's bending backwards.. To improve it, I add extra solder on all 4 pads, specially the front pads, and then add a good 2 part epoxy to the back of it where it makes a nice 45 deg support wall behind it. Can use JB Weld, for example.
- so, the electronics is simpler because the switch and driver are all one piece, but I really don't like these type of switches for reliability. The flat switches mounted on a separate PCB are a better design, least in my opinion. If you can't add the support to the switch, try not to over press on the switch - give it the min amt of pressure needed, no more. It should last longer.
On mine, I pulled the R10 resistor and tombstoned a 10K there, then wired up to pin #7. Also had to pull the R4 resistor since it's connected to pin #7. I should have wired the R10 resistor direct to the R4 pad instead of the MCU pin, but didn't realize that R4 was on pin #7.
For fyi, R4 and the C4 cap are there to support main LED input - yes, it's an attempt to read light blinks on the LED. I first brought this capability up and TK experimented with it, got it sort of working. She didn't fully implement/test it, but wanted to leave it in the circuit design of the FW3A family. The idea was to use a phone app to program/configure UI settings.
Please post how you get the magnet out.
I do my best research after ordering. From Post #10 in this thread (which I just read and saw your original question about this) it sounds like I will not be able to remove the magnet which is unfortunate.
I believe there are ways to demagnetize magnets?
The PCB the spring is mounted on is definitely glued, just not sure if still might be possible to remove it.
I didn’t order this but I noticed when Amazon has slow shipping for COVID you can sometimes go into your order after it’s placed and “change shipping speed”. For me it basically made thing come with no delay
I wonder if that actually works, or if it’s like one of those “push button to cross street” buttons that aren’t connected to anything, but make you feel better pushing it.
Oooh! That is so worth it for the “tail electric shock” alone. 
Thank you!
I had to order one. I am a total sucka... Hop'n can disassemble it easy enough. Perfect for Anduril, 3 LED w/tint mixing.
58 reviews, 94% 5 star - must be good! 
I don’t like magnets in my lights either.
Which is why I swapped my EDC-18’s tailcap for one from an Emisar D4. The threads are the same, though I did need to insert a bit of wire at the bottom of the tailcap to get a good connection.
On top everything else, this flashlight is “wawterproof” and has a mind of its own!
:laughing: The Q&A’s are so obviously made by posers. I wonder what the actual lumens will be….
From a review it has low voltage warning. Hope we get BLF input about this light, especially “tail electric shock.”
This is all typical translation issues: gears are modes, beads/bulbs are LED's, copper is brass, on and on...
There's things to expect here: sharp bare threads (no easy lockout), probably less lumens than claimed, lucky if they are CREE LED's as claimed. Just the unique 3 LED setup intrigues me, though I've seen them before. Also looks like the switch has AUX LED's and should be an e-switch, so hopefully can be modded to Anduril.
That front bezel though looks like a lumen/kcd loser. It's way too big and deep, taking away from the width of the reflector.
Cool Clean Wawter 
“Tail Electric Shock”? … does that mean it has a stungun built into the tail? Or is that just what happens if you accidentally touch the tail while it’s in your pocket. :smiling_imp:
Nope, doesn’t work. Amazon is the only retailer i know whos gotten worse at shipping over the years (probably so prime is better)
Still staring at 2.5 week delivery estimates.
Heres a fun riddle. I ordered from the same seller 1 item a week after the first.
Will they force a non prime member to wait more just cuz?
Or will they save themselves money & ship them both together??
Tune in this week for the exciting results