What did you mod today?

[xevious (Gary)]

@gchart

@xevious

Reminds me of this:

What’s the funny looking thing on the desk? No, not the glowing cube. The grey thing with all of the buttons. :confounded:

Actually, it’s just a touch tone multi-line office phone. Not a Xerox/copier. The back has a slot for holding papers… Back in the late 1960’s copiers / fax machines were much, MUCH larger.

[BOO5TED]

LOL

[G0OSE]

I finally finished my brass s2 clone triple - just waiting for the illuminated tail cap….

[Marc_E]

@G0OSE

I finally finished my brass s2 clone triple - just waiting for the illuminated tail cap….

Wow!
How much current are you going to be running in that?

[G0OSE]

@Marc E

@G0OSE

I finally finished my brass s2 clone triple - just waiting for the illuminated tail cap….

Wow!
How much current are you going to be running in that?

I have no idea - electronics is my weak point… the driver is an A17dd as in the X6 - it’s powerful though and wipes out my fw3a totally when side by side. I thought the fw3a was more powerful, but it would ‘look’ not. Maybe it is on paper, I dunno lol (maybe it’s coz it’s slightly more focussed). I have the hi’s in my fw3a too!

[pinkpanda3310 (Pinky)]

Nice work GO0SE

[djozz]

Looks good. Since you use a lathe, maybe you can widen the bezel opening slightly (without compromising the slot for the o-ring) to get more light out.

[G0OSE]

@djozz

Looks good. Since you use a lathe, maybe you can widen the bezel opening slightly (without compromising the slot for the o-ring) to get more light out.

Now I discussed this……… I thought about ‘unholing’ the holes lol - as in rounding the bezel to the 3 circles/lenses.
CRX pointed out the o ring (which is kinda square and you can see in the pics) might pop out. I think he’s right. It would look funky, but you’d have to lose the ring - maybe silicone the optic in around top edge off the optic if waterproofing were a worry - but it could be done.
Still, I don’t think I’ll bother…….yet……
I am looking to put goldish leds on the illuminated tailcap, and am getting some goldy/yellow gitd powder for a gasket.
I may get another one later and sell it/ them now I know what’s involved …. I’m kinda in love with this one now, it’s moved into my 3 faves….and because i made it, it’s all the better lol! (more so it works)

[G0OSE]

@pinkpanda3310

Nice work GO0SE :+1:

Thank mate!

[MRsDNF]

Wow. Some orsm mods and builds going on. Love the work guys.

[buck91]

@djozz

Well done XXX-Man, a good old C8 mod!

I swapped the led of my new Thrunite TH20 headlamp. I got the lamp for under 30 dollars in a Gearbest flash deal lately, well not that ‘flash’ because the link from the Gearbest deals thread up to now gives the discounted price

I absolutely think it is the best head lamp you can get atm: it looks good (for a head lamp that is), it is small and lightweight, it feels very comfortable on the head,works on all AA-size cells, gives a good output and runtime even on an Eneloop cell, the tiny OP-reflector gives it a wide diffuse hotspot that is made for close-up work, great user interface with ramping and direct access to moon and high etc. etc.

I got the neutral white version but for a head lamp it was still too cool for my taste. I had a nice U5 7A3 80 CRI XP-L (3000K) from intl-outdoor sitting in the parts box for ages so that was to be the swap. The parts:

The white part is a bezel tool that I made from a plank holder. I made it because with my needlenose pliers I could not open up the bezel and even scratched it a bit . This tool got it open nice and clean, there was no thread-lock, it was just screwed in tight.

There you go, here’s how the ledboard looks like, a dedicated little copper board that appeared to be DTP.

With the ledboard removed you can see that it sits on top of a groove that actually is the battery compartment, this is a tight design . The thermal paste looks a lot like Arctic Silver.

I reflowed the new led and assembled the light without problems. and now the headlight emits a cosy warmish light that is to my liking, at high on a freshly charged Eneloop @30 seconds I measure 215 lumen (so a bit lower than stock), it is great for camping and reading books.

Stellar pictorial. Just swapped a sw40 R9080 into mine and it looks so much nicer than the low CRI “NW” XPL. A little spottier but that offsets the marginal decrease in lumens. Mine also had arctic silver thermal paste (or similar), though it is now replaced with arctic alumina…

[e1000]

Finally got this one done. Dropped a 4000K 219C in a SPL-120. Unlocked the stock driver.

[id30209]

@e1000

Finally got this one done. Dropped a 4000K 219C in a SPL-120. Unlocked the stock driver. !{width:100%}https://i.imgur.com/sHmWXdb.jpg!

Is the output noticably higher than before?

[e1000]

@id30209

Is the output noticably higher than before?

It’s pretty significant, especially in the highest mode. I really hated the stock emitter.

[KawiBoy1428]

@e1000

@id30209

Is the output noticably higher than before?

It’s pretty significant, especially in the highest mode. I really hated the stock emitter.

What pill was in it?

[e1000]

The one on the right

[KawiBoy1428]

@e1000

The one on the right

Cool the good one from my testing. I’m getting 589lm with just an emitter/board swap XP-L V4 3C tested on my T/A muakka tube.

.

Been removing the good drivers and putting them into the round mcpcb pills…

Resistor modded a few… of the others… just to play with…

[e1000]

Wow, how did you get the potting out?! These things are built like tanks

[KawiBoy1428]

@e1000

Wow, how did you get the potting out?! These things are built like tanks

It’s a RTV silicone potting… I soak them in a very strong thinner. I take a small drill bit and by hand remove the silicone down to the driver contact board, the 2 holes opposite the lead holes are for filling/ venting the pill, remove the silicone from those 2 areas and soak in thinner. It takes time and patients but eventually the silicone breaks down enough to push the driver out. I used to hot air the spring contact board off, now I just soak them.

[e1000]

@KawiBoy1428

It’s a RTV silicone potting… I soak them in a very strong thinner. I take a small drill bit and by hand remove the silicone down to the driver contact board, the 2 holes opposite the lead holes are for filling/ venting the pill, remove the silicone from those 2 areas and soak in thinner. It takes time and patients but eventually the silicone breaks down enough to push the driver out. I used to hot air the spring contact board off, now I just soak them.

You’re a better man than me, I know I’d get frustrated and mess that up.

I’d really like to do a brass bar 18350 conversion next, just trying to plan out how to do it