Ideas what to do with boost HX

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YuvalS
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Ideas what to do with boost HX

I won 2 boost HX  from led4power on the OL competition but have never used this LEDs.
Any suggestions how to use it?
I have read that it is a "thrower" LED, what lens/reflector should I use?
Is driving it using 2.8A is a waste and I have to over driven it?

THX 

YuvalS
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KawiBoy1428 wrote:
Put one in a BLF GT... 5.2amp SRK/Mtn.7135 driver, 2S2P carrier converted to 4P...

I am more into headlamps but easily can build a 3P or 4P battery case 
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YuvalS wrote:

KawiBoy1428 wrote:
Put one in a BLF GT… 5.2amp SRK/Mtn.7135 driver, 2S2P carrier converted to 4P…

I am more into headlamps but easily can build a 3P or 4P battery case 
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EasyB
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To take advantage of the LED’s better thermal resistance relative to the regular 2mm^2 WF and other 2mm^2 LEDs you would need to overdrive it, yes. The regular 2mm WF output peaks at 8ish amps. I don’t think anyone has tested the boost HX to see how much of an improvement there is.

A C8 with convoy’s customizable linear driver (comes stock with 7.8A max) would be a nice compact thrower.

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Boost HX should be driven at or above 5A… I’m not sure if I’ve seen a good test of it, but it probably has a sweet spot around 7-8A guessing based on the 2mm flat white vs the 1mm 4040 variant.
It would be best in a large host than can handle that kind of heat adequately. It’s also best with a large reflector or lens (or whatever optic).
It is not a “thrower” LED, it is in fact one of the most extreme best thrower LEDs.

To be bluntly honest, it doesn’t have a place in a headlamp. It is inefficient for light output, it has a very cold tint with low CRI, and it’s far, far too throwy for headlamp use.

The boost HX is the 2mm 4040 variant. The 1mm and 2mm 3030s are somewhat common in throwier enthusiast lights now, and the real advantage of the 4040 versions is how they can take more heat. I have two examples of the 4040 1mm, and while it is fantastic in my Jaxman Z1 host, it is nearly a waste even there.

Anyway, there’s some interesting discussion about the different versions of the LED currently floating around, so I’d be very interested in any testing (if any) you’re able to do of these.

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EasyB wrote:
I don't think anyone has tested the boost HX to see how much of an improvement there is.


Scallywag wrote:
Anyway, there's some interesting discussion about the different versions of the LED currently floating around, so I'd be very interested in any testing (if any) you're able to do of these.

Looks like It is not relay useful for my needs, If someone have the time and equipment to do some tests and post on BLF I can ask them to send him the LEDs  
Agro
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It is a great headlamp LED…supplying the throw part of flood + throw headlamps. It gives quite a few lumens and very good throw. But as noted already, it needs to be driven hard to really shine. Don’t expect to make it great for sustained performance; unless you make quite a big lamp it will be really good only in turbo, to have a look at something specific rather than to use it continuously.

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Agro wrote:
It is a great headlamp LED...supplying the throw part of flood + throw headlamps. It gives quite a few lumens and very good throw. But as noted already, it needs to be driven hard to really shine. Don't expect to make it great for sustained performance; unless you make quite a big lamp it will be really good only in turbo, to have a look at something specific rather than to use it continuously.


That is exactly what the spot LED in dual optics caving lights is for Smile high power for short periods when searching for a continue (or the exit)
I am using a massive aluminum body so I don't think cooling is an issue but I don't think I can drive it more than 6A.
Do you have an advice on what optics to use?
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I tested a Boost HX sample for Hank, but did not post it on BLF because Hank thinks that he can source a better bin. At least for my sample, at 5A (3.13V) you are at already 80% of its maximum output so that is a fine performance already, IMO even ideal. (I found the maximum at 9A).

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YuvalS wrote:

Agro wrote:
It is a great headlamp LED…supplying the throw part of flood + throw headlamps. It gives quite a few lumens and very good throw. But as noted already, it needs to be driven hard to really shine. Don’t expect to make it great for sustained performance; unless you make quite a big lamp it will be really good only in turbo, to have a look at something specific rather than to use it continuously.


That is exactly what the spot LED in dual optics caving lights is for Smile high power for short periods when searching for a continue (or the exit)
I am using a massive aluminum body so I don’t think cooling is an issue but I don’t think I can drive it more than 6A.
Do you have an advice on what optics to use?

Similarly with my use – the most important use of throw is to figure out where to go (find a trail mark / examine available tracks etc.).
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Agro wrote:
YuvalS wrote:

Agro wrote:
It is a great headlamp LED…supplying the throw part of flood + throw headlamps. It gives quite a few lumens and very good throw. But as noted already, it needs to be driven hard to really shine. Don’t expect to make it great for sustained performance; unless you make quite a big lamp it will be really good only in turbo, to have a look at something specific rather than to use it continuously.


That is exactly what the spot LED in dual optics caving lights is for Smile high power for short periods when searching for a continue (or the exit)
I am using a massive aluminum body so I don’t think cooling is an issue but I don’t think I can drive it more than 6A.
Do you have an advice on what optics to use?
Similarly with my use – the most important use of throw is to figure out where to go (find a trail mark / examine available tracks etc.).

This. Headlamps are not throwy enough these days without some exceptions, but they got other issues like with Thrunite UI which includes sos-mode or Fenix with cool white leds.
There is enough headlamps for close work already, but for biking I just NEED something that out throws my handlebar light. Maybe my good old fenix HP30 will do the trick with XP-L Hi when parts arrive someday from China. Shipping sure takes time now…..

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MoreLumens wrote:
This. Headlamps are not throwy enough these days without some exceptions, but they got other issues like with Thrunite UI which includes sos-mode or Fenix with cool white leds. There is enough headlamps for close work already, but for biking I just NEED something that out throws my handlebar light. Maybe my good old fenix HP30 will do the trick with XP-L Hi when parts arrive someday from China. Shipping sure takes time now.....


Because of these issues I started building my own headlamps, I can choose the emitters, the optics and UI, best headlamps (for my needs), cost 10% of commercial caving lights and it is fun to build      
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YuvalS wrote:

MoreLumens wrote:
This. Headlamps are not throwy enough these days without some exceptions, but they got other issues like with Thrunite UI which includes sos-mode or Fenix with cool white leds. There is enough headlamps for close work already, but for biking I just NEED something that out throws my handlebar light. Maybe my good old fenix HP30 will do the trick with XP-L Hi when parts arrive someday from China. Shipping sure takes time now…..


Because of these issues I started building my own headlamps, I can choose the emitters, the optics and UI, best headlamps (for my needs), cost 10% of commercial caving lights and it is fun to build      

I seen some of your stuff and I like it. Straight forward diy-stuff. I been thinking of getting something similiar with Fenix BT20 design with one single led, deep reflector for good and tight throw + external battery pack to get the weight down from light so I can get more cooling mass for constant and high lumens. Some motorbike/vehicle light would probably do it because I dont have any CNC or another heavy machinery to make my owns.

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MoreLumens wrote:
I seen some of your stuff and I like it. Straight forward diy-stuff. I been thinking of getting something similiar with Fenix BT20 design with one single led, deep reflector for good and tight throw + external battery pack to get the weight down from light so I can get more cooling mass for constant and high lumens. Some motorbike/vehicle light would probably do it because I dont have any CNC or another heavy machinery to make my owns.


I also don't have CNC and build everything using hand tools, what optics would you use for a headlamp with aa boost HX emitter? 
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YuvalS wrote:

MoreLumens wrote:
I seen some of your stuff and I like it. Straight forward diy-stuff. I been thinking of getting something similiar with Fenix BT20 design with one single led, deep reflector for good and tight throw + external battery pack to get the weight down from light so I can get more cooling mass for constant and high lumens. Some motorbike/vehicle light would probably do it because I dont have any CNC or another heavy machinery to make my owns.


I also don’t have CNC and build everything using hand tools, what optics would you use for a headlamp with aa boost HX emitter? 

I havent really played with that led or any fancy optics that much so not sure, but probably because my use would be just a thrower headlamp I would go with “normal” glass lens. Depends on what kind of reflector and hotspot I would get with that, but maybe plastic tir to get even more tighter hotspot if needed. If I would make it a “do it all headlamp” then definitely flip on diffuser or something like that for close up work/use.

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YuvalS wrote:
what optics would you use for a headlamp with aa boost HX emitter? 

Maybe try Carclo 10755 or 10756 if you can fit it. And judging by your builds I think it’s no problem for you to build a host that can fit one. Yajiamei also has a lot of tight angle optics options in the 20mm and above range that might work well. I’m using a sliced LH351D under a carclo 10756 for my spot beam for my caving headlamp build (ignivi host). 10755 gives it much more throw but I like 10756 (frosted) better since it makes the beam a lot cleaner with no hard edges and mixes very well with my flood light (mule). Looks better in photos too. I’m still measuring max 300+ meters throw for sliced 351D driven to 5A so it can still throw a bit. It should throw a lot better with boost HX.

I haven’t seen any tests with boost HX + optics but based on experience, using clear tight optics is hit or miss. Most of the times I tried, the beam becomes ugly with lots of artifacts and very difficult to center. But then again, I had success with throwy leds like XPL-HIs and SST-20s with clear 10° optics so it might work with boost HX. I never liked SMO on my spot beam for caving since the edges annoy me when mixed with a floody light. But maybe that’s just me.

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aswang wrote:
YuvalS wrote:
what optics would you use for a headlamp with aa boost HX emitter? 
Maybe try Carclo 10755 or 10756 if you can fit it. And judging by your builds I think it's no problem for you to build a host that can fit one. Yajiamei also has a lot of tight angle optics options in the 20mm and above range that might work well. I'm using a sliced LH351D under a carclo 10756 for my spot beam for my caving headlamp build (ignivi host). 10755 gives it much more throw but I like 10756 (frosted) better since it makes the beam a lot cleaner with no hard edges and mixes very well with my flood light (mule). Looks better in photos too. I'm still measuring max 300+ meters throw for sliced 351D driven to 5A so it can still throw a bit. It should throw a lot better with boost HX. I haven't seen any tests with boost HX + optics but based on experience, using clear tight optics is hit or miss. Most of the times I tried, the beam becomes ugly with lots of artifacts and very difficult to center. But then again, I had success with throwy leds like XPL-HIs and SST-20s with clear 10° optics so it might work with boost HX. I never liked SMO on my spot beam for caving since the edges annoy me when mixed with a floody light. But maybe that's just me.


I have some 20 mm Yajiamei  but it is made for XMLs, I wonder if it can fit other LEDs and how to center it.

Maybe it is only me but never found a use for flood-spot combination I only use one led at a time so I don't mined the edges. 
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YuvalS wrote:
I have some 20 mm Yajiamei  but it is made for XMLs, I wonder if it can fit other LEDs and how to center it.

Maybe it is only me but never found a use for flood-spot combination I only use one led at a time so I don’t mined the edges. 

They’re made for XML but they work with other leds too. With optics especially throwy ones I find the best way is to try them. Yajiamei also have some optics for XPGs and those might actually work better with that particular led. I’ve used those for SST20s. Another option are those optics Simon sells for convoy S2. Those have smaller openings for the led than the Yajiameis for XMLs.

Centering can be challenging. For clear tight optics you really need it perfectly centered or else the beam would be ugly. I just use trial and error and some patience which I don’t have a lot of. So, many times I end up using beaded or frosted ones. They’re not as throwy as clear ones but the beam is just nicer in general and you don’t have to center them as perfectly.

YuvalS wrote:
Maybe it is only me but never found a use for flood-spot combination I only use one led at a time so I don’t mined the edges. 

If you don’t mind the edges I think reflectors are much easier to work with than optics for throwers. Try looking at Kaidomain or Convoy to see if they have the right size reflector and centering gaskets for you. Looking at the boost HX datasheet, it looks like it has the uncommon 4040 size footprint so you might have to use 5050 gaskets and just center it as much as you can. If you’re putting it in your headlamp build then it might be easier since you don’t have to twist to tighten. You can also have one printed.

http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60177

Luxeon V has the same 4040 size.

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aswang wrote:
You can also have one printed. "http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60177":http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60177 Luxeon V has the same 4040 size.
That is nice solution, unfortunately I don't have 3D printer