It’s a RTV silicone potting… I soak them in a very strong thinner. I take a small drill bit and by hand remove the silicone down to the driver contact board, the 2 holes opposite the lead holes are for filling/ venting the pill, remove the silicone from those 2 areas and soak in thinner. It takes time and patients but eventually the silicone breaks down enough to push the driver out. I used to hot air the spring contact board off, now I just soak them.
I made up some brass signal tubes for my FW3 shorty mods and machined the tubing smaller for the FW3/NovaTac mods. So I had 3-4 FW3 signal tubes left over. Now I’m out of brass tubing. But then I figured I would flap out the battery tube of the NovaTac which was about .005” and then I cut down the FW3 tube to fit.
My Last FW3/NovaTac Triple using the FW3 driver and cut down signal tube…and clip…
I have not seen any SPL-120’s just the SPA SPL-120’s and the 3 older ones I had with the SS Black bezel to me is the better ones of the SPA’s from my experience. I don’t know much about the other models.
Edit. Sorry… I misread your question… I had 120M locked in my head… I got a 120M coming… a Black anodized with a clip… my first… All my others have been in the weapon light kit SPA SPL-120’s.
Mine had the pill that has the skinny straight mcpcb opening.
I think the output is pretty good with the stock driver and an LED swap, it actually turned out better than I anticipated. Really happy with the light now.
I agree on that. Novatac pills with HS opening just for a P4 emitter are the ones with most lumens after emitter swap.
Those with larger opening in the pill for emitter and mcpcb, those are the ones with less powerfull driver.
I hope i’m right but as i read in Kawiboy and CRX posts, it seems it is like that.