You’re a better man than me, I know I’d get frustrated and mess that up.
I’d really like to do a brass bar 18350 conversion next, just trying to plan out how to do it
I made up some brass signal tubes for my FW3 shorty mods and machined the tubing smaller for the FW3/NovaTac mods. So I had 3-4 FW3 signal tubes left over. Now I’m out of brass tubing. But then I figured I would flap out the battery tube of the NovaTac which was about .005” and then I cut down the FW3 tube to fit.
My Last FW3/NovaTac Triple using the FW3 driver and cut down signal tube…and clip…
That looks awesome! Very cool
Thanks… :+1:
What pill has SPL-120 if you have seen them? I wanna add one to my lab but i’m nit sure about the driver
I have not seen any SPL-120’s just the SPA SPL-120’s and the 3 older ones I had with the SS Black bezel to me is the better ones of the SPA’s from my experience. I don’t know much about the other models.
Edit. Sorry… I misread your question… I had 120M locked in my head… I got a 120M coming… a Black anodized with a clip… my first… All my others have been in the weapon light kit SPA SPL-120’s.
I’ve modded a couple 120s, they can vary.
Oh yeah, so anodized bezel ring has lower output than the model with black bezel ring. Bummer...
Mine had the pill that has the skinny straight mcpcb opening.
I think the output is pretty good with the stock driver and an LED swap, it actually turned out better than I anticipated. Really happy with the light now.
I agree on that. Novatac pills with HS opening just for a P4 emitter are the ones with most lumens after emitter swap.
Those with larger opening in the pill for emitter and mcpcb, those are the ones with less powerfull driver.
I hope i’m right but as i read in Kawiboy and CRX posts, it seems it is like that.
Anyone know a good place to buy a clip for these things?
I use a FW3 clip you just have to open up the I.D. a bit…
Ask Neal (neals gadgets) or Victor at Lumintop to hook you up.
I’m an idiot, didn’t even think about that, thanks!
Must look amazing. I’m also very keen on the TH20. I picked mine up for $30 from the Thunite site when they had a sale. A BLF friend here swapped the emitter for me, with a Nichia 219B R9080 R9050 sw30 I supplied to him. It would be warmer than I normally go for, but wow… is it fabulous. Eyes adjust to it easily. Very reminiscent of incandescent. It’s under-powered with a basic AA Eneloop, but the main intention is close range task illumination & it does the job wonderfully. Good spill. Ramping is a touch slow, but I’d rather have that than too fast.
Very nice tint. Your photo does a great job of capturing it. I’ve got a 219B 9080 9050 sw30 (3000k) in my TH20 and it looks very much like that.
Thank you for the encouraging words
The sw30 9080 is a fantastic LED, especially after sunset.
When Im daylight adapted I enjoy the sw45k option:
Yesterday I got some “goodies” and made small mods.
Replaced a XP-L HI (4000K led on my FW1A for a Luxeon V2 4000K too.
The tint is not so much different, but I find it better than the XP-L HI.
Before (compared with a Nichia 5700K, on the right) > After (compared with a Nichia 5700K, on the right)
Comparison betweemn the 3 Luxeon V2 led (3000K, 4000K, 5000K)
I also moded my On The Road i3, through a “lego” with the battery tube with the On The Road M1.
Although there are differences in anodozing and knurling, the tubes fit well.
I used a 16650 (Sanyo UR16650ZTA, 3.7V 2500 mah) battery to put inside the “new” flashlight!
It uses a 15mm diameter driver, with Crescendo, and I am using a Samsung LH351D.
So far so good 
Compared with the FW3A and the FW1A (18500 version)
MCM Underground Mechanical mods:
CRX Underground MCM Triple Nichia 219C 5000K - Lxl TA Driver - 18650 - Piston Drive E-Tail Sw - 2430lm.
CRX Underground MCM Nichia 219C 90CRI - C-MK 3A - 18350 - Rv Clicky Tail Sw - 600lm.
:o :o :o
That is…WOW 
And the “smoke” becomes light!!!
Looks awesome