Contacted Acebeam 1 week ago and no response. I want another carrier for my X65 MINI.
Does anyone know why the K60 battery carrier does not work in the X65 MINI? Carriers[battery config.] look the same. Only difference appears to be the shape and size of contact point at either end.
Could it be the type of metal? Aluminum vs. brass like?
K60 ON LEFT. X65 MINI ON Right
There could be slight differences in length. Take off the battery tube and press the carrier against the driver. See if it works.
Are the center springs the same height in both lights?
I see the driver spring on the K60 is a lot longer. Maybe the center post of the K60 carrier is too low to contact the shorter spring on the X65 driver.
K60 carrier worked when I pressed it against driver.
K60 battery tube is longer and has spring at bottom. X65 has NO spring at bottom. Maybe that is why?
K60
X65vn MINI
Together-K60 on Left
Yes, there you go. The battery tube needs to push the carrier against the driver to get both positive and negative to make contact. You would need to add a spacer to the X65 tail cap to push it forward more. Maybe some foam or cardboard will work.
That makes sense. The carriers are basically identical and when the light is tightened there is good contact.
In general how many amps can an XHP35 HI PULL?
This is in my X65vn MINI.I am thinking of getting Molicel P26A/VTC5D as second set of batteries which are much, much better than 30Q/VTC6 or MJ1 on HKJ voltage curve at 15amp and 20 amps.
Thanks
You rarely see them used with FET drivers. With a Buck driver like in the GT it’s set to 2.5A Turbo. The Boost driver in the MF04 is maybe 2.7A, but that is pushing it. Most drivers limit it to 1.8 to 2 amp. More amperage only gives a tiny bit more output, but a lot more heat.
I don’t know what driver design the X65 mini has, but if the carrier is 12v, then it’s probably a Buck driver. I would guess it’s no more than 2A per led, so maybe 10A draw on Turbo.
If you want more non consecutive Turbo runs, a high drain battery will work well. You don’t want a lot of voltage sag at 10A.
This is Not stock anymore. It is X65vn MINI. I heard he uses FET drivers from Richard. Not sure if it is in all of his lights.
In my type A analyzing brain I try to find the best combo of amp draw and run time. The re wrap VTC6[Acebeam batteries ] do pretty good. MJ1 higher incremental voltages but less output, which probably is not noticeable. Basically getting 15 minutes of turbo in 3 minute increments.
P26A would probably be 12 or 13 but more output. It is crazy how powerful the light is. Eating up 4 X 18650 on turbo in 15 minutes!
Okay, so you have the X65vn Mini from Skylumen? I don’t know what driver it has then. Might be FET. Best thing to do is ask Vin what battery to use. He is the one that knows.
(I thought you had the stock light and was thinking of sending it to Skylumen)
I did have the stock light. Sent it to him, got it back in 5 days total… sent last Saturday and got yesterday!
I know the high drains are better, the MJ1 will get more run time but less output. Just wanted to know amp draw for XHP35 HI.
Do you know what kind of driver the vnx2 is?
I’d just get whatever high drain cell is convenient for you. 30Q, VTC5D, VTC6, Molicel P26A, P28A. All are good.
No,I will use P26A for spares, second run. The only way to know there run time versus other batts is to get them. I know they will provide plenty of amps.
Here was my run[post] for tonight:
I picked the best setting for me. 1%/30% and 100%
It was 58F out tonight. Initial burst was for 5.5 minutes on turbo. Then a few minutes on 1% to cool down, then 30%[which is ~3200L] for several minutes where it won’t get hot, then back to 100%…………repeat cycle! :+1:
I’ve used my brother’s rotary tool to first cut then sand down small pieces of metal into even smaller ones a couple of times recently.
F.e. I made a couple of 10 mm MCPCBs from 20 mm ones.
Now I need to do it again, reducing 20x20 mm copper piece to about 8 mm in diameter.
So far I kept the work piece in my fingers. It was not safe and I don’t want to do it like this any more.
I tried pliers but since the jaws are not parallel, they grip only the edge and the work piece rotates.
I tried pliers with some paper, it was a little better - but only a little.
I considered vice but:
Can anyone give me suggestions how to do it safely and conveniently?
Thank you, this let me notice that I have tongue-and-groove pliers. I just tried - they work great for me.
Forgive my stupid questions (ohh! It's ok to be stupid here! 
), but I'm look'n for a better way as well to rotary tool small chunks of copper:
tongue and groove pliers (not mine):
I used a piece of paper-and-bubblewrap envelope to protect the MCPCBs. Plastic + paper turned out to be adequate soft jaws material. Though not very durable due to water softening the paper.