I’m an idiot, didn’t even think about that, thanks!
Must look amazing. I’m also very keen on the TH20. I picked mine up for $30 from the Thunite site when they had a sale. A BLF friend here swapped the emitter for me, with a Nichia 219B R9080 R9050 sw30 I supplied to him. It would be warmer than I normally go for, but wow… is it fabulous. Eyes adjust to it easily. Very reminiscent of incandescent. It’s under-powered with a basic AA Eneloop, but the main intention is close range task illumination & it does the job wonderfully. Good spill. Ramping is a touch slow, but I’d rather have that than too fast.
Very nice tint. Your photo does a great job of capturing it. I’ve got a 219B 9080 9050 sw30 (3000k) in my TH20 and it looks very much like that.
Thank you for the encouraging words
The sw30 9080 is a fantastic LED, especially after sunset.
When Im daylight adapted I enjoy the sw45k option:
Yesterday I got some “goodies” and made small mods.
Replaced a XP-L HI (4000K led on my FW1A for a Luxeon V2 4000K too.
The tint is not so much different, but I find it better than the XP-L HI.
Before (compared with a Nichia 5700K, on the right) > After (compared with a Nichia 5700K, on the right)
Comparison betweemn the 3 Luxeon V2 led (3000K, 4000K, 5000K)
I also moded my On The Road i3, through a “lego” with the battery tube with the On The Road M1.
Although there are differences in anodozing and knurling, the tubes fit well.
I used a 16650 (Sanyo UR16650ZTA, 3.7V 2500 mah) battery to put inside the “new” flashlight!
It uses a 15mm diameter driver, with Crescendo, and I am using a Samsung LH351D.
So far so good 
Compared with the FW3A and the FW1A (18500 version)
MCM Underground Mechanical mods:
CRX Underground MCM Triple Nichia 219C 5000K - Lxl TA Driver - 18650 - Piston Drive E-Tail Sw - 2430lm.
CRX Underground MCM Nichia 219C 90CRI - C-MK 3A - 18350 - Rv Clicky Tail Sw - 600lm.
:o :o :o
That is…WOW 
And the “smoke” becomes light!!!
Looks awesome
CRX, that is absolutely beautiful! I feel ignorant at the moment…so was that originally a vape? I need to know more. What did you fabricate yourself? What is used behind the lens on the triple? Need more info on the tailcap for the 18350 light 
CRX at first glance, I thought you made it out of Brass ESNA nut’s… I’m like damn I have some of those at work!
Very COOL! 
:+1:
CRX: awesome work
Fantastic, love it! Looks so extraterrestrial …
You’re welcome. 
Actually, I made a mistake. My TH20 219B emitter is R9050 sw30. So it’s probably a touch warmer. Yes, I fully agree, the sw45 is also a great tint & would be my choice in brighter conditions. I bought 5 that are waiting to be implanted (thinking of using 3 on a triple, 1 on a single, and keep 1 for something later).
K75 needed more run time.
K65 goes on the other end
“Made” some programming keys 
and got Anduril working on a FT03.
Added a FET driver to my Convoy L6 with XHP70.2 in 5000k, the 30mm 2S Momentary driver from MTN.
I love the spring bypass all the way through to the MCPCB 
Dam this thing gets hot, almost heats up like a FW3A…haha
Im running 2 x unprotected 5500mah Keeppower rated up to 15a.
This thing is a serious fire hazard. Doesnt look like ill be letting anyone else touch it and only pull it out to wow people i think.
I turned it on for the first time outside (just in case) and i could see the beam in the midday Australian direct sun, now thats some light.
Cant wait for the sun to go down now 
I like the SW30 9050 a lot.
It looks better to me than the 9080 in these single samples
they are very close, and things that affect the difference includes, how bright the light is, the type of reflector, and variations between LEDs.
I have not seen anything to suggest to me, in actual use, that the sw30 9080 is “better”. I think the variation between LEDs is a more dominant factor, than the CRI R9 of 50 vs 80
I was surprised. I expected the 9080 to kick ass and take no prisoners, but honestly, I would be just as happy, or happier, with the 9050, in this particular comparison.
the control shot surprised me (LEDs are not even close to sunlight, even at 9080):
Allot of things can be at play regarding the color appearance of daylight in a room not the least of which thought of is the glass. From Arch Lighting.
“Color By definition, the color of daylight is essentially perfect, with a color rendering index (CRI) of 100. However, almost every glazing system has a color characteristic, from very subtle hints of tint to strong variations of green, gray, bronze, aqua, and blue. Remember, just like any filter, the transmitted color is the opposite of the color that is most absorbed. Blue glass, for example, absorbs yellow light. While the color impact is often slight, a heavily tinted glass will cause the perceived color of daylight to change considerably, reducing the CRI of daylight considerably. For example, some green-glass systems have a CRI of 60, about as poor as old-fashioned “cool white” fluorescent.”
Also, higher efficiency glass cuts off a portion of the red end of the spectrum near the infra-red. It helps to explain why, in the Mandalay Bay hotel, why everything in the rooms has a strong green cast, it’s in the glazing. Other factors are also at play like that affect the color temperature of daylight like the time of day the picture was taken, prevailing weather conditions, and latitude. Then, what’s the white balance?
yes, lots of variables
that is why I post multiple photos, to compare to each other,
in the same setting of variables
Im not even saying that the photos look exactly like what my brain says Im seeing. That is a fools errand. So I just post photos to compare to each other. I think that helps eliminate some of the variables and gives a reasonable basis for Comparing one sw30 9050, to one sw30 9080.