Nice collection Jon!
I did some heavy searching. CRX did a CuTi piston drive. Cereal Killer did some Anduril mods to D10s ( 1 , 2 , 3 ). I feel like I remember someone mounting a switch inside the spring of a light to make something with similar spirit to piston drive: and found it
Public Service Announcement
Stop the Presses!
I have discovered a wart on my sweetheart, the morning after.
The 11.2 driver is unregulated, so the output drifts, sometimes just 20, other times 50 or more, depends on temperature of the light, and how high an output level is being requested.
I only noticed this lumen drift because I have a light meter. It is not easy to see with naked eyes in actual use because our brain has a wide lumen range tolerance, and also we change lumens on target often, based on how far we hold the light from the target.
here is a more extreme drift example, way more than 100%
EX11.2 using CR123 shows regulated output
I only recommend buying 11.2 versions if you intend to use Primary cells
By contrast the 10.0 driver has rock steady output regulation on both CR123 and 16340 (LiIon is not brighter than Primary). I strongly prefer the regulated 10.0 driver.
It was a fun ride 
Looks like Ive got a pile of lights to love…
First world problems.
So is this just above 3v then? I wanted to mod the d10 that I lost so now I guess I will mod the ex11 driver (and an xp-l 4000K swap). It would be interesting to see if I can fit a tiny buck driver that could deliver 1-2A cc and just PWM it. It’s not a lot of current but I want a butter smooth ramping task light. Should be more than bright enough.
yes
I believe the drifting only happens above 3.2 volts (as with LiIon)
the EX11.2 works great on CR123… very stable, no weird drifting
here is another reason to prefer CR123 over 16340 in 11.2 drivers
avoiding sudden darkness:
I ran a 16340 down until protection tripped
that happened when the max output had decreased to 110 lumens (max was 225 lumens w an sw30), and the protection in the battery tripped at 3.2 volts, creating sudden darkness…
A CR123 is the right “Octane” fuel for the 11.2 driver
For short use it’s probably not a big deal. But, if you want it to be more stable and still use a rechargable Tenergy makes a 3v cell. I just tried one, works fine but obviously not as bright. I had been using them in my Extreme. Which I am now thinking of selling lol. But that light does have the potential to be a 16340 pocket rocket, a lot more body for cooling. I just don’t like the tactical look. I don’t go out hunting people on weekends.
good call
also less bright on CR123
I dont need more than 100 lumens, on a light I use mostly indoors.
handy as a glovebox light too
I’ll take it ! How much for the box of lights :heart_eyes:
since I started hanging around here
you guys have cost me some cash
I don’t know if I want to compliment that collection or build you a box with some sort of separators 
Nice testing 
yes,
Protection is important
I wonder if these plastic bottle preforms could be found in a suitable size
Slightly less elegant than I had in mind but still effective
^ Disturbing ^
You can always get a small bag of the expanding foam with some spacers between the lights. Close up a box and let the foam do its thing! I always save EPP foam, too. That is good stuff for cutting.
Mine came today. Nifty little bugger. Does fine with an Olight protected 16340 - haven’t even bothered popping my spare Vapcell in it. I do wish the shortcuts from off were to low and high, rather than strobe/SOS. Will just have to remember to turn it off in low. Then it’s easy.
I guess the next step is to see about flashing it and/or replacing the MCU.
Oh, and I found a short Jetbeam clip from a dead DDA10.
sadly, not in my experience,
they fit and they work, but
I only recommend primaries, for output stability
and
they are shorter than protected LiIon, so the button is easier to operate.
sometimes the light will not turn off after it is heated up by LiIon use, it goes to low instead
after that when I repeat the attempt to turn off, the light goes into lockout
I spend a lot of time fiddling with the button to get the light to function as requested when I use LiIon
the output is ridiculously unstable when the light warms up
those issues disappear when I do not use LiIon
max on LiIon is over 250 lumens with a 0.1 low,
max on Primaries is about 125 lumens, with a 0.01 low
.
fwiw, about LVP in LiIon cells:
Did a test to run down a protected 16340 in an EX11.2
When output had dropped to 100 lumens, the light went dark.
The protection tripped at 3.2volts
Did a test to run down a CR123 in EX11.2:
When the output had dropped to 50 lumens, the battery was at 2.5volts.
A few minutes later, output dropped to 5 lumens, at which point the battery had dropped to 2.2 volts.
would avoid using unprotected cells, unless you can monitor voltage or brightness, to prevent overdischarge
Noted.
I won’t try the unprotected vapcell in it then. The Olight is a pretty weak cell, and protected - I will have to see how it does on longer runs at maximum brightness. If the light isn’t usable at max on LiIon, I will have to figure something else out for it - possibly an entirely new driver… Wouldn’t that be something.
My wife caught me getting another.
Aaaannd already blew it up. 3 seconds on, died. Some board component is toast. Edit: The seller is sending me a new one so all is well. Probably just the left side of the bathtub curve for electronic failures. Bookmarked the seller. Can’t say I won’t want another. The only thing really holding me back is the possibility of battery selection getting worse for 16340. Maybe that is just being paranoid though. This light is a good balance of output and size and I really love the Piston feel.
I forgot to mention: Mine came in with Andrew & Amanda on the return address label, despite being sold by “flashlight_scope_outdoors” on eBay
Same here. I bookmarked their site now. Their prices look decent and the shipping to me is pretty quick. Easy to work with also.