My 10x10 110v hotplate takes 16 minutes to reach 200C
so I turn it on when I start to take a light apart, and by the time I have the mcpcb out, the hotplate is ready… Im sloooooowwwww … lol
Hhmm, I don't think it's hours and think it can go higher. Mine looks exactly the same as the one pictured above, which says UY-D220V on the front, but came with a 120V power cord.
16 mins? Hhmm, sounds faster than mine, boy, I gotta check.
click this link to share your results:
I use a butane torch to heat the MCPCB from below but I don’t apply the flame directly. I hold the torch 10-15cm away to heat it more gently and it typically takes 60-90 seconds before the solder melts and the LED centers itself. I usually tin the pads for the leads so I can see when the solder melts and immediately remove the heat. After it melts, a quick, gentle tap on top of the LED (s) with a swab squeezes any excess solder out and its done.
I’ve had great success with this method on everything from E21a to SBT90.2. I’ve even reflowed the same emitter multiple times without any measurable (ceiling bounce) reduction in performance, which is acceptable to me. I’ve thought about trying the frying pan method or getting a hot plate, but since the $10 torch has served me well I continue to use it.
I use a household hot plate. It’s rudimentary, but it’s step up from the skillet I started with.
Temperature control is just a number dial so I use an IR temp gun to make sure it’s in the right arena. Really quick to heat up, cheap, and widely available.
I might have to give that a shot. I think I have some spare MCPCBs I can practice on. Are there any preferred US retailers or overseas dealers that sell bare emitters besides Mtn? Looking to get some emitters in 2-3 weeks.
Specifically looking for anything I could swap into an XP-L2 MCPCB for my Wuben E05. The MCPCB is ~1mm thick and I believe the LED4Power/Mtn boards are 1.5mm.
Off the top of my head…
International:
- Kaidomain
- Fasttech
- AliExpress (Convoy, etc)
- Led4Power
- Intl Outdoor (Hank)
- Cutter
- Virence (Nichia!)
US / Canada:
- Mtn Electronics
- Illumn
- Arrow
- Digikey
- Mouser (they have $3.49 economy shipping once you sign in)
- BLF: azhu (Nichia 219B, a few CCT options)
- BLF: Bob_McBob (Nichia 219B SW45k, still available?)
- likely a few others here on BLF
If you’re looking to get them in 2-3 weeks, domestic is your best bet. Arrow, Digikey, and Mouser are large electronics suppliers so it might take some searching around to find what you’re looking for (verifying datasheets for flux bins, etc). I know I’ve purchased Luxeon V2 of various CCTs, LH351D 90-CRI (the “DA0GF4RTS”), lots of different Cree LEDs. The nice thing about ordering from MtnE (or a BLF member) is that you have an idea of what tint you’re getting (and it supports a fellow BLF’er). Let me/us know if you’re looking for something in particular.
I’ve reflowed new LEDs into those Wuben E05s. They’re a good candidate (get rid of that stinking Cree rainbow!).
D10 mod to sw45k, on AA Eneloop
low 1 lumen
max 110 lumens
.
very simple to disassemble the D models, no need to remove the contact ring…
just line up the slot with one of the notches, by feel, and the pill turns easily to unscrew
The D pills are screwed in from the bottom. The EX pills drop out the front after removing the bezel.
neither the D nor EX models require removal of the contact ring… KISS!
Nice mod, Jon!
Thanks to contactcr for the warm LED 
My first reaction was WOW! 
cant wait for Dark!
this completes a triumvirate of Nitecore PD EX11.2
they have excellent firefly levels <0.01 lumens, and stable regulation on CR123
Is there an easy cheat sheet of what can be reflowed on what package size or based on previous emitter?
There are two main package sizes: 3535 and 5050. There are also some 3030 emitters out there (notably Osram White Flat) and 4040 (Luxeon V and a different line of Osram white flats). Current modern emitters I can think of:
- 3030:
- Osram White Flat 1, 2 (CSLNM1.TG and CSLPM1.TG)
- 3535:
- Luminus SST20
- Cree XP-E series
- Cree XP-G2
- Cree XP-G3
- Cree XP-L (Hi)
- Cree XHP35 (Hi)
- Samsung LH351D
- Nichia 219 (B and C)
- Lumileds Luxeon V2
- 4040:
- Lumileds Luxeon V
- Osram Boost HL/HX (CULNM1.TG, CULPM1.TG)
- 5050:
- Cree XM-L2
- Luminus SST40
- XHP50(.2)
- 7070
- XHP70(.2)
- 90mm?
- SBT90.2
- MT-G2
As the name implies XHP70 is 7070 not 5050
One more addition: the Lumileds Luxeon V2 is 3535
Note for nick779: the 3535 name means “3.5mm x 3.5mm”, 5050 means “5.0mm x 5.0mm” and so on. Generally, most LEDs with the same footprint dimensions (eg, 3535) are swappable. However, there are some LEDs out there that only have 2 pads instead of 3 (they’re “missing” the central thermal pad). These are not common in our high-output LEDs though, are are generally found in low output ones. An example that we deal with would be the Nichia E17A (a 1.7mm x 1.7mm LED). And a couple (though again, rare) have a central thermal pad that is not electrically neutral. The only one that comes to mind is the Osram Black Flat.
Cool deal, thanks guys.
I have a few MCPCBs with 219Cs that I might practice on before trying to reflow a warmer XP-L2 or high CRI 219b/c to my E05.
Slightly different twist on a Novatac 18350 mod.
I’m more confident in my soldering skills than my metalworking, so instead of a brass bar, I decided I would solder 5 small pogo pins together as a signaling contact. Cheap and effective, bought 100x pogo pins for $11-ish.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Q8JILQ
nice 18350 mod
I like the bezel too
Thanks Jon! I’ve been racking my brain on how to easily do this
Nice idea
Thanks!!