I did have the stock light. Sent it to him, got it back in 5 days totalā¦ sent last Saturday and got yesterday!
I know the high drains are better, the MJ1 will get more run time but less output. Just wanted to know amp draw for XHP35 HI.
Do you know what kind of driver the vnx2 is?
Iād just get whatever high drain cell is convenient for you. 30Q, VTC5D, VTC6, Molicel P26A, P28A. All are good.
No,I will use P26A for spares, second run. The only way to know there run time versus other batts is to get them. I know they will provide plenty of amps.
Here was my run[post] for tonight:
I picked the best setting for me. 1%/30% and 100%
It was 58F out tonight. Initial burst was for 5.5 minutes on turbo. Then a few minutes on 1% to cool down, then 30%[which is ~3200L] for several minutes where it wonāt get hot, then back to 100%ā¦ā¦ā¦ā¦repeat cycle! :+1:
Iāve used my brotherās rotary tool to first cut then sand down small pieces of metal into even smaller ones a couple of times recently.
F.e. I made a couple of 10 mm MCPCBs from 20 mm ones.
Now I need to do it again, reducing 20x20 mm copper piece to about 8 mm in diameter.
So far I kept the work piece in my fingers. It was not safe and I donāt want to do it like this any more.
I tried pliers but since the jaws are not parallel, they grip only the edge and the work piece rotates.
I tried pliers with some paper, it was a little better - but only a little.
I considered vice but:
- it makes cooling harder
- I canāt clamp it in the room that is the easiest to clean - bathroom
Can anyone give me suggestions how to do it safely and conveniently?
Thank you, this let me notice that I have tongue-and-groove pliers. I just tried - they work great for me.
Forgive my stupid questions (ohh! It's ok to be stupid here! 
), but I'm look'n for a better way as well to rotary tool small chunks of copper:
- what are tongue and groove pliers?
- how do you guys prevent damaging the rather soft copper of MCPCB's with these kind of pliers with such a small surface area of the MCPCB to access?
tongue and groove pliers (not mine):
I used a piece of paper-and-bubblewrap envelope to protect the MCPCBs. Plastic + paper turned out to be adequate soft jaws material. Though not very durable due to water softening the paper.
Ahh, ok. I'll have to try this next time. Thanx!
Those Knipex at $53 discounted are a big investment, but might be worth buying if I had other uses. But they look like a smooth finish jaw so not sure if they can hold the MCPCB very well.
I got a few locking pliers types, but again not sure bout the teeth and adding cushioning. Some have teeth that are too big, or deep teeth that are hard to cushion. I'll have to see.
Maybe Harbor Freight has something cheaper than the Knipex?
We call tongue and groove pliers āChannel Locksā and locking pliers āVice Grips,ā though that might not be the real names. Never heard them called anything else, but a rose by any name would smell as sweet.
I ordered a Convoy M21C from Banggood. I just checked for an update and I realized that the shipping method says āOcean Shipping.ā
Does that mean the slow boat from China, or could it be the name of a shipping company based out of China that ships by air, and sea.
I think itās transliterated from Oh Shin Shi Ping.
My first laugh out loud in a few weeks. Thanks! I needed a nice, big laugh out loud.
:
Thanks Lightbringer, I have to clean the coffee off my keyboard now. LOL!!! 
I actually just used a pair of channel lock/tongue-and-groove pliers for the first time today for swapping a boat trailer jackā¦ Iām buying some ASAP. SO much faster than setting an adjustable wrench.
Anyone know if the pocket clips are interchangeable between the FW3A and FW21A?
The diameters are different, so no interchangeability.
I used wikipedia to get the name. I knew the polish name, went to the right article and switched language.