There's some good news - Sofirn contacted me to order the stock SP10S to have as reference. I find this to be a step in the right direction, so hoping the ball will start rolling on this project! I also recently picked up a ThruNite T10T V2 on the special deal offered on Amazon, which is a similar AA light in that it takes any AA size battery, e-switch with a decent UI, similar design.
The UI of the T10T V2 is very similar to Anduril/Narsil:
From OFF:
click ON to last used level
click/hold to moon
dbl click to turbo/max
From ON:
click for OFF
click/hold for cycling through levels (though it's only 2 levels to cycle thru -- wut were they think'n?)
dbl click to turbo/max
if at max, dbl click to strobe
I prefer the click/hold to switch brightness levels, and the 1 click to turn it OFF. This matches up so well with Anduril in non-ramping mode. The current SP10S uses click to cycle thru levels, click/hold to turn OFF, though the SP10S has more levels/modes.
I would prefer a tailswitch, so SF12 instead of SP10
And AA Tool Ti instead of T10T
imagine a titanium host with a tailswitch, running Anduril on an Eneloop… now THAT is an unmet need.
for those who dont yet know, Anduril has not been implemented in AA voltage…
while Im wishing, I want the UI to support a stable, regulated firefly output…
word is Anduril cant do sublumen without flicker… so it cant compete w V10r, V11r, D10, which not only Ramp on AA, they go way sub lumen… if Anduril is to compete for a full featured EDC, it needs to step it up with some sublumens on primaries…
Hhhmm. I've used the lowest PWM value of 1 in Narsil for a long time now, never noticed flicker, but then again at my age my sense of smell and taste are down, so my eyes aren't much better.
Bout the tail switch, sorry, but I'm not a fan of e-tail switches, so not a fan of the FW3A & company lights. Just don't like twisting my wrist around to have a comfortable position on the switch, again might be an age thing. I have the titanium T10T V2 here, and it's an awesome light, pineapple style knurling. The switch on it is not my preference: can't feel it, just blends in with the body - actually the SP10S switch is probably better. The T10T V2 also pops off the clip on me sometimes, but the tail design for the lanyard is one of the better designs.
The big challenge is the boost driver, might have to be buck too. Handling 3 types of cells with LVP, etc. Now if we could get the schematic, BOM, and firmware (maybe not necessary) for the current SP10S driver, we could probably adapt it to an ATMEL. Dunno if we could do smooth ramping, but at least could do Anduril with level modes. If we could get one of the new gen ATMEL's, we could keep the footprint small and go with a simple 3 pin or so pogo adapter for downloading the firmware.
Ohhh, btw, I have no idea if the aesthetic/mechanical design is open and up for discussion. I was think'n it would be the same basic design as the current SP10S. Actually I really like the SP10S look overall. I'd rather not see the smooth head, and a SS bezel would be a nice touch, but the body and tail with the knurling looks great to me.
[quote=jon_slider]
I would prefer a tailswitch, so SF12 instead of SP10
[quote]
Anduril does not work with a conventional mechanical tail switch. Lights like the FW3A or Noctigon KR4 have an additional electric path designed in to allow a momentary electronic button to be used in the tail.
However, Convoy may soon be introducing a version of their AA/14500 light with a clone of Bistro, wbich is one of the most versatile mechanical switch firmwares available. It is a bit larger of a light than most AA models, though.
That’s actually due to the hardware, not Anduril. On a 1×7135 driver, Anduril’s minimum output should be less than 0.5 lumens, but not all 7135 chips seem to be quite stable at those low currents. My ROT66, for example, has a subtle flicker at the lowest output the driver can supply. It’s slower than PWM, and actually, I’m not very bothered by it.
It definitely would be great, though, to have Anduril in an AA light capable of firefly level outputs.
If possible, it would be great if the driver had the flashing pad things like on the Emisar lights. It’s great to be able to easily keep the firmware up to date.
