The There Are No Stupid Questions Thread

Anyone know if the pocket clips are interchangeable between the FW3A and FW21A?

The diameters are different, so no interchangeability.

I used wikipedia to get the name. I knew the polish name, went to the right article and switched language. :slight_smile:

We usually call them slip-joint pliers…. sometimes channel locks. Never heard tongue and groove tho(except for flooring and other wood products) Not sure how big the piece you are trying to hold but I use hemostats(medical pliers) for holding small stuff…… works really well.

I tried that before as well while shrinking a MCPCB from 20 to 10 mm. After adding cushion to the jaws they wouldn’t keep it securely. Maybe a different cushion material would work better but that’s what I came up with quickly. :wink:

Ive used buckskin leather and it worked well

Nitecore D10 Issues

I am based in the UK

A double click on the button should ramp down the light from x (high) to y (off) gradually. Removing the finger from the button should stop the ramping somewhere between x and y.

Mine doesn’t do this. It is either on or off. Does this mean that the circuitry is shot? Is it resettable/repairable or have I just got a single mode torch/flashlight?

Thanks a lot for any words of advice.

What’s the state of development on LEP? Do folks here think it’ll be a killer of LED-throwers? Might some makers combine an LEP (throw) with LED (spill) for the “near perfect” flashlight?

I hope more LEP lights become available, less expensively. I think it will happen, but probably not for quite a while.

I can see these may be useful - parallel fish & tackle pliers with neoprene pads.

Pic clicks to arbitrary store.

The brass lined version sounds real good: https://www.micromark.com/Parallel-Jaw-Brass-Lined-Plier

I've known them as channel lock pliers, but that's a brand name apparently. A quick google for either term gives a good idea.

Sorry the Knipex were half-joking. They are expensive, but an interesting alternative to a crescent or adjustable wrench. They are a particularly expensive example of a Knipex wrench - however, my Knipex tools are my nicest tools by far. I am sure they will outlast all my other tools, and me.

Please don't use those on nuts/bolts! Anything with teeth should stay far from nuts and bolts.

Slip-joint! Yes, heard that term as well. As for hemostats... Forceps to me! I use forceps routinely when soldering - it's a tricky thing to keep them from buggering up the wires.

What type of cell are you using? Alkaline, NiMh/NiCd, Lithium Ion, Lithium Primary?

May be worth also asking this thread.

Cool! Useful indeed.

Locking forceps make too much pressure, screws up the insulation.
Been using a variation of these and various other models (can’t find a pic / store with the lightweight aluminium cladded mini alligators) .

Pic clickable for link. Store has many other tools for the hobbyist. No affiliation.

Edit: found the clips

Clickable pic for link.

You give me too much credit, I’m not that strong.

Really though was using open-end wrenches for all the bolt heads I could, but the contours of the assembly kept it or a socket from fitting onto some of them. Improvisation was needed.

Not exactly. It is the “There are no stupid questions” thread, so stupid questions are allowed, but it says nothing about permitting stupid answers. Take this answer of mine as an example, it is not allowed. Belongs in the Joke of the Day thread, maybe.

Ask a stupid question...

Get a stupid answer!

I'd re-read the OP.

To clarify, I was saying my post is stupid, not yours. I will edit to make that clear.

What’s the highest CRI LED I can buy on a 20mm star, and where can I buy it?

I’ve got too many cool white lights accumulated over the years. Time to fix them.

SST-20 4000K and below has the higher CRI and R9 of any emitter you can find installed on a star AFAIK.

Kaidomain and others might be selling some 291Bs mounted but IDK what bin they are.