[Sale] Buck drivers 20, 21, 22, 24, 30mm L6, MF01, MF02/04(S), TN40S/42, BLF GT, Acebeam X45/65

I always sell drivers with e-switch or tail clicky assembly depending on how it is ordered

Thanks for the reply.

If you sell a driver configured for a tail clicky, how does the UI change? There is no press and momentary hold option in this config, so … Narsil and Anduril require a hold facility to work to full spec. Do you just omit any press & hold functionality or replace it with something else?

Lexel provides firmware accordingly - NarsilM and Anduril are e-switch versions. You have to use clicky firmware for clicky lights, like Bistro, A6, etc.

There are very few lights that have an inner tube to move an e-switch to the tail like FW3A or many tactical Klarus lights

Mechanical tail switch means no e-switch firmware and the other way around

Bistro OTSM refuses to run on drivers with input capacitors like buck drivers have, so good old Bistro has to be used

Vinh at SkyLumen has some specs comparing the stock XP-L HI to XHP35, but I’m not sure if that includes other changes to the driver.

Vinh is very friendly and I’m sure he’d verify the specs and answer any other questions if you email him.

The stock driver delivers 4A, so the XHP-35 are very mildly driven, for a mod with one of my drivers I would go to 7-8A
to have some overhead voltage to regulate and keep within my specs I know the driver starts to sound very unfriendly at about 11A

I build quite a lot of drivers this weekend, I am a bit puzzled have here a 42mm DD+N+1 drivers build but can’t find the responding PM who ordered them

Good job Lexel we all Thank You for all you do for us :+1:
Thanks to you my water cooled MT35 PLUS is Great, I am very Happy with its performance and the water pump functions perfectly that you took time and effort to add power from the driver. :smiley: I just got equipment to check the amperage.
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Lexel - wondering if you might consider a driver replacement for the Amutorch E3 and E3S. They are a uni-body light design with 2 screws to mount the driver, and virtually no space above the driver components. I'd say a FET+1 would work best. Even if you do a driver layout that could be ordered on OSHPark would be fine. If you don't have one, I could provide details and pics, though the screw holes might be tricky to get measured accurately.

Here's a pic:

Also has a driver mounted switch as shown. It's roughly in the 21-22 mm diameter size.

I could modify a design for a small time compensation payment
It should not be hard to measure the holes, the switch makes me more to think about as it needs to be placed precise

Probably true about the switch. I thought OSHPark has issues close to the edge, so not sure about using OSHPark for this one.

What are you thinking of? Just a board layout/OSHPark thing or a complete driver?

you can always make the OshPark PCB 0.35mm bigger and then manually grind it to copper edge

True, guess you don't have one of these lights? I would take two. Not sure if there's more interest. So are you think'n of just the board or complete driver?

Fet+ 1? I can draw it easily. Just need right measurements.

Drawing this is not the main problem, it’s getting a compatible or the same switch, so that the pressure point is the same

I guess

Iv'e bought a few variants of these switches before, believe from Mouser, DigiKey or Arrow.

Of course a good option is simply transfer the stock driver switch.

I've done several mods with these switches - yes, position is critical and also the size of the plunger varies, and the placement of the feet/contact points vary. For the feet/contact, usually they are close enough but sometimes they hang off a bit, needing some solder bridging. Also these type of switches all have a common weakness - the force applied to the switch can weaken the front solder, pushing the switch or tilting it backwards. The solder mask can be pulled right up/off the board. Happened several times to my lights and other lights I've modded. I always try to add some sort of epoxy, like JB Weld, to the backside for support. C_K, Ceral_Killer, laid out a couple driver designs with these switches and I've used them many times in various unintended lights.

This switch design, I believe is the one biggest weakness of most of the Amutorch designs, though I don't think I've ever had or seen a switch problem on a Amutorch yet. I try to avoid lights using them but seems unavoidable, specially when they want to save as much vertical space as possible in compact lights. Mechanically, this switch is a poor design for this kind of use, directly effected by applied finger pressure. Add to that, ramping and lots of clicks, etc., in our modern UI's...

Dang, that's look'n pretty good! Ok, guess you find this stuff easy . What package are you using? DipTrace? Was hoping to get a chance to learn DipTrace. because TA said it was pretty easy.

I can give you exact dims, least the best I can. I have the E3 in pieces still. I'll check, but think the E3S uses the identical driver.

Wow though! Would love Anduril in these lights, plus with my epoxy fix on the switch.

There are similar switches that have a ledge in the front that goes well below the solder pads - meant to transfer push force to the PCB side.
I wonder why I haven’t seen this stuff in a flashlight yet…

Hi Lexel,

If it is always possible, i need a buck driver for an 6 volts XHP70.2 with an input of 2× 26650 5.5A cells (8.4v), i hope for max 8A, the diameter max is 32mm is for a Maglite.

Let me know

Thank