Borrowing d_t_a’s picture:
The driver on the right (the rev 5.0 one) has two resistors near its left edge, labelled R_CC1 and R_CC2. Those enable USB-C to USB-C charging. If your driver doesn’t have those resistors, then you’ve been sent an older version LT1.
Ok this is weird but apparently I do have a 5.0 version but it will only allow me to charge the lantern via my phone but it will not charge my phone. So in essence the type c to type c does work lol
Type c to type c charging does work on the 3rd batch LT1 Lantern I have it plugged in the powerbank now via type c output and im happy with the results!!!
Sorted. That’s the way it’s supposed to work. The LT1 is only designed to accept power from an external power source, so it can charge itself up. It can’t provide power to another device.
One day, there might be an “LT1 Deluxe”, with a powerbank function that can provide power to another device, but that’s a long way away, if ever.
Thank you for confirming that the new LT1 does charge from a USB-C charger - now we know for sure that the rev 5.0 driver upgrade works as planned 
Yes type c to type c works finally on the lt1 lol
Just ordered mine with the kit and the case. The description mentioned “latest version” so hope to get the latest with usb-C to C charging. Will be my first lantern\soda can style light.
As the others above mentioned, the rev 5.0 board does allow type-C-to-type-C charging (charging the LT1 lantern, but not the lantern as a powerbank)
what makes you think that?
I have a c8g I have been waiting on for little over two months, may have been lost Idk
Aha. Therefore, resistance is not futile!
Lol
I got my LT1 a week ago. Bought in sofirnlight, in Russia the package reached in 35 days I consider it a very good result. Tremendous lamp! Latest version, 5.0. I use it every day, it ’s like a toy, I ’m really happy.
Barry posted some color sample SP40 pics on the color thread “”https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/72853/142”“:https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/72853/142
maybe colored versions aren’t much farther off now? 
Those could be a possibility.
Has anyone tried bridging the drivers 6 and 7 to increase the max brightness by using pencil? Can anyone can show the picture of how it’s done? I’ve done it but not sure if I did it correctly as the brightness isn’t noticiably different. And I measured the lux by using my phone and I got more lux at mid CCTs than at 5K CCTs. Is that normal?
I’m interested in getting 2 or 3 of these. I’ve been aware of the project but I have to admit I haven’t followed it very closely. What is currently the best way to get these?
Not sure if anyone has them in stock stateside but from Sofirns website has the best price.
Just bought one from amazon canada shipped by amazon . If available in amazon us. PM sofirn for a discount code . Ended up same price as sofirn but with fast delivery and no hassle returns .
Finally remembered to check this after dark with the lights off - that is, when the “glow” was visible. The glow disappears when the battery tube is unscrewed.
I keep meaning to open it up, but I’m never near hex wrenches (to open the top) when the inspiration strikes. Then I get distracted… I at least checked the topside of the driver just now, and nothing looks out of place.
As for the adjustments on the solder bridges: Are 6 and 7 on a separate channel from moonlight, or would bridging them increase the brightness of the lowest level? I really like the low, warm output as a bedside lamp. I wouldn’t mind a higher high.
Brightness isn’t completely flat while changing tint. It tries to adjust output to keep the brightness close to the same, but it’s not perfect. Brightness is expected to be slightly higher or slightly lower in the middle than it is at either end of the tint spectrum.
Going from 5 to 7 chips causes all levels to be 7/5ths as bright as before… including moon.
But at only like 1 lm to 1.4 lm, it’s not a big difference at the low end.