Not sure if anyone has them in stock stateside but from Sofirns website has the best price.
Just bought one from amazon canada shipped by amazon . If available in amazon us. PM sofirn for a discount code . Ended up same price as sofirn but with fast delivery and no hassle returns .
Finally remembered to check this after dark with the lights off - that is, when the “glow” was visible. The glow disappears when the battery tube is unscrewed.
I keep meaning to open it up, but I’m never near hex wrenches (to open the top) when the inspiration strikes. Then I get distracted… I at least checked the topside of the driver just now, and nothing looks out of place.
As for the adjustments on the solder bridges: Are 6 and 7 on a separate channel from moonlight, or would bridging them increase the brightness of the lowest level? I really like the low, warm output as a bedside lamp. I wouldn’t mind a higher high.
Brightness isn’t completely flat while changing tint. It tries to adjust output to keep the brightness close to the same, but it’s not perfect. Brightness is expected to be slightly higher or slightly lower in the middle than it is at either end of the tint spectrum.
Going from 5 to 7 chips causes all levels to be 7/5ths as bright as before… including moon.
But at only like 1 lm to 1.4 lm, it’s not a big difference at the low end.
Why is this so expensive? I checked amazon.ca and it’s a hundred bucks!
pm sofirn for a discount code . with batteries it’s $81 .
Carry case for LT1 is availble now! Buy LT1 and case together, save $2.5
Carry Case Link: https://sofirnlight.com/blf-lt1-p0013.html
Thanks Sofirn,
$55 w/case…… thats a good deal! …… I already have one but plan on two more when colors are available(OD green & Desert tan)
Im half tempted to order another lantern to see if the new shipping process will beat my light stuck in Nanning.
Not sure if anyone noticed the SOS Mode?
Driver Rev. 5.0 is installed.
After Beacon Mode there is the SOS Mode.
Where normaly the Temp Check can be found in Anduril Flashlights.
Thanks for this great project.
Regards,
Robert
Success! After 6 months and a replacement shipment later, I finally have mine!
It’s incredibly well built, definitely worth the wait.
The later versions of FW have SOS mode, its a good add IMO. Good to know the newer lights have the newer FW also.
LT1 has no temp sensor hence no temp check.
If its ATtiny85 or 1634 based it has a temp sensor. It was probably just removed because it will never overheat even with all 7135s enabled.
Thank you, Toykeeper. If I bridge the 6th and the 7th pads and set the stepped mode to 7 steps, will the first 5 steps be equally bright as the 5-stepped modes (like a default setting) before bridging?
I have got a BLF LT1 Rev 5.0 and soldered the pad 6 and 7 to increase the current (previously I drew a line with a pencil, but didn’t notice any difference in brightness). Still don’t feel that it’s brighter. Did I miss anything?
Pads 4 & 5 are not connected. At least on earlier versions, the lower number pads need to be connected for 6 & 7 to have an affect. Using a pencil should work, try that on 4 and 5.
Thank you for your reply. The man came to answer it himself. There have been some discussions above about the revision of this Rev 5.0, which I don’t understand. Seems like the pads 4 and 5 are connected by those little metal things between them (they talked about resistors, not sure if these are the the resistors) or that the pads 4 and 5 are not connected as you say? If it’s the latter case, that means my LT1 is running with just 3 pads? Really?
From other thread, take a multimeter to test the pads between 4 pads and 5 pads. They should be connected by the 0 ohm tiny resistor. If not connected then the 0 ohm resistors connecting either 4 or 5 may be bad and reducing power?
“As Lexel says, the latest LT1 driver should have 0Ω resistors connecting AMCs 4 & 5 as standard. You can check that with a multimeter – you should see a short-circuit between the ‘4’ contacts, and another short-circuit between the ‘5’ contacts, even though they’re not soldered.
If any of you have a new-model LT1 and a multimeter, please try it and let us know for sure Smile
The 0Ω resistors make it easier for Sofirn to manufacture and do quality control, because they’re less prone to human error compared to manually soldering contacts with a soldering iron.
If you want more output from your LT1, you still need to solder the ‘6’ contacts together yourself. If you want still more output, you need to solder the ‘7’ contacts together as well.
If you want less output, you have to unsolder the 0Ω resistors next to the ‘5’ contacts. If you want still less output, you have to unsolder the 0Ω resistors next to the ‘4’ contacts as well.
If you change your mind afterwards, you can restore higher output by soldering the ‘4’ contacts together again, and then the ‘5’ contacts together again. You don’t have to worry about saving the 0Ω resistors, so it’s not a problem if you destroy them when you unsolder them. ”
All the lower numbered pads 4 & 5 have to be bridged as well on both channels in order for the 6 & 7 pads to work when bridged.