Tried to repair my Lumintop GT90.... and failed.. replaced the LED but now the Driver is smoke... (or something) The light turns on... and ramps up and down... (although still very bright in the lowest output) and it doesn't turn off anymore.
Nice look!
Is your lanyard ring loose or firmly in place? Mine spins… and body is tightened down fully. I’m not sure if I have a different cut from an earlier batch, and if the thickness was increased later.
Relatively minor but it’s my favorite project and it’s finally finished. Added a bezel up clip and a made a flat button out of high temp silicone rubber. Now it’s exactly the way I want.
The one I bought was the second one pictured, short titanium crenelated. I really like the first one too. Emailed him and he still had stock left, at least when I reached out.
Yesterday, a SST-20@3500K arrived, implanted it today
Left to right: SST-20/3500, Nichia 219B sw45k, SST-20/2700
Somehow I can’t stand the 4000K SST-20 in the C01S, and not a fan of the original optics either. Dunno what’s wrong about that combination. All other LEDs make beautiful light.
Ever have a mod not go quite according to plan? Yeah, I’m having one of those nights
I designed an aux board for the Wuben TO50R, which was my Peoples Choice Award prize in this year’s Old Lumens contest. The PCBs finally came in today. I built one up and it bench tested perfectly. Since I can’t reasonably reprogram the driver to control the aux board, I figured I’d use a JFET to turn the aux board off while the main LEDs are lit. Once voltage is detected at the gate pin of the JFET (wired to the main LED+), it would pinch off the ground connection of the aux board. Slick. And it worked great on the bench. Oh yeah, and it’s current controlled (3.0V LDO) and low voltage protected (a 2.93V reset monitor).
Well… when installed in the TO50R, apparently there’s always 5+ volts at the LED+ pad, its just a super low current that won’t turn on the LEDs. So my fancy new aux board wouldn’t light up until I disconnected the JFET and relegated it to being always-on. Bummer.
And then when I got it fully reassembled, I realized that I lost my moonlight mode. The flashlight thinks it’s on and in moonlight mode, but it doesn’t actually light up. It must have to do with where I tapped in to steal current for the aux board. The TO50R must be sensing/controlling current there. So hopefully I can remedy this aspect… I just need to take it all apart and find a new spot to steal battery voltage from. That’ll have to be another day.
Behold… the monstrosity of the TO50R driver. Triple stacked!
New aux board, fresh off the bench test
Selected placement of the aux+ connection (white wire)
Installed
First light
Behind the optic… thankfully, looks pretty good. At least I had one win for the night.
It’s a fun trek, but lots of stones on this path
UPDATE: Eureka! So, the TO50R driver must have been monitoring current where I had tapped into the ground. I found a true ground connection and now moonlight works again! Everything is working like it should and the blue aux LEDs look beautiful under the optic.
BTW, gchart, when I got my first TO50R sample for review, I had some “electronic” problem that after turning it on in Turbo 2 or 3 times, it stopped working on the Turbo level, I could only cycle between some modes (ML-L-M-L-ML - yeah, it was acting weird too!).
I sent it to Wuben again, to China, and they sent me another one! Jelina later referred that there was an hardware problem.
I do hope you can manage to make it work again, fully, and with those extra leds It looks great!
It’s a Wuben E05-I (TLF-version with much improved UI and Samsung LED). The 5000K LED was too greenish, so I decided to implant a 2700K LH351D. Hestitated a long time since this is or was a collectors item. My good taste won eventually.
You got one of those :o
I saw them on selected-lights but never ordered! The UI is better than the regular version, I am sorry that that version was never “implemented” in larger scale! :zipper_mouth_face:
Better tint now