How can you possibly have the trits showing in that photo? UV light applied to them?
yes UV
no UV:
Thanks – that is an excellent comparison! I knew sometimes UV was used in such photos to show trits, but (and especially before owning any trits) didn’t really know how great the effect was, or how to tell in pictures.
Don’t forget, for FET you can buy a GT Micro driver from Lumintop aliexpress that drops right in. I couldn’t get Anduril working when I tried to re-flash it though but the stock GT Micro firmware works fine.
Do you have a link for the GT Micro driver? I looked on aliexpress but couldn’t find them. It would be nice to get my 2 UT01 lights working properly without having to unscrew the tailcap all of the time.
How’s the beam profile with the TIR vs the stock reflector? Where’d you source the TIR?
I found the tir in my spare parts bin, so I’m not exactly sure where I sourced it (it could’ve been kaidomain or fasttech). I had to use an o-ring to fill out the space as the tir was slightly loose without it. I also removed the led ring in the install and there is no problem unscrewing and screwing the bezel on and off, not twisting the MCPCB and wires. The beam is narrower. The outer circle of the beam is less green but there a yolk in the center. Overall, it looks better to me but I’m a sucker for tirs.
How’s the beam profile with the TIR vs the stock reflector? Where’d you source the TIR?
I found the tir in my spare parts bin, so I’m not exactly sure where I sourced it (it could’ve been kaidomain or fasttech). I had to use an o-ring to fill out the space as the tir was slightly loose without it. I also removed the led ring in the install and there is no problem unscrewing and screwing the bezel on and off, not twisting the MCPCB and wires. The beam is narrower. The outer circle of the beam is less green but there a yolk in the center. Overall, it looks better to me but I’m a sucker for tirs.
Any beam shots with the TIR?
—
"America has three cities, New York, San Francisco and New Orleans. Everywhere else is Cleveland."- Tennessee Williams
How’s the beam profile with the TIR vs the stock reflector? Where’d you source the TIR?
I found the tir in my spare parts bin, so I’m not exactly sure where I sourced it (it could’ve been kaidomain or fasttech). I had to use an o-ring to fill out the space as the tir was slightly loose without it. I also removed the led ring in the install and there is no problem unscrewing and screwing the bezel on and off, not twisting the MCPCB and wires. The beam is narrower. The outer circle of the beam is less green but there a yolk in the center. Overall, it looks better to me but I’m a sucker for tirs.
Any beam shots with the TIR?
Here you go, but the picture isn’t the best since it’s from my phone and I don’t take the best pictures.
I put 219b 4500k in Wuben E05 today. What can i say. I do not recommend! Beam is terrible, not equal and has lots of artifacts. In the picture it doesn’t look as bad as in reality.
—
kiriba-ru S2+ and S21a spacers are available in EU. PM me. A few details here
Tried to repair my Lumintop GT90.... and failed.. replaced the LED but now the Driver is smoke... (or something) The light turns on... and ramps up and down... (although still very bright in the lowest output) and it doesn't turn off anymore.
18350 tube.
SS bezel.
3000k sst-20 with zircon minus green filter.
Red Glow.
Nice look!
Is your lanyard ring loose or firmly in place? Mine spins… and body is tightened down fully. I’m not sure if I have a different cut from an earlier batch, and if the thickness was increased later.
18350 tube.
SS bezel.
3000k sst-20 with zircon minus green filter.
Red Glow.
Nice look!
Is your lanyard ring loose or firmly in place? Mine spins… and body is tightened down fully. I’m not sure if I have a different cut from an earlier batch, and if the thickness was increased later.
Thnx! It does not spin if I use a thin oring on the lanyard ring. And I bended the lanyard piece in a small angle, that might have helped also.
Relatively minor but it’s my favorite project and it’s finally finished. Added a bezel up clip and a made a flat button out of high temp silicone rubber. Now it’s exactly the way I want.
The one I bought was the second one pictured, short titanium crenelated. I really like the first one too. Emailed him and he still had stock left, at least when I reached out.
Yesterday, a SST-20@3500K arrived, implanted it today
Left to right: SST-20/3500, Nichia 219B sw45k, SST-20/2700
Somehow I can’t stand the 4000K SST-20 in the C01S, and not a fan of the original optics either. Dunno what’s wrong about that combination. All other LEDs make beautiful light.
Ever have a mod not go quite according to plan? Yeah, I’m having one of those nights
I designed an aux board for the Wuben TO50R, which was my Peoples Choice Award prize in this year’s Old Lumens contest. The PCBs finally came in today. I built one up and it bench tested perfectly. Since I can’t reasonably reprogram the driver to control the aux board, I figured I’d use a JFET to turn the aux board off while the main LEDs are lit. Once voltage is detected at the gate pin of the JFET (wired to the main LED+), it would pinch off the ground connection of the aux board. Slick. And it worked great on the bench. Oh yeah, and it’s current controlled (3.0V LDO) and low voltage protected (a 2.93V reset monitor).
Well… when installed in the TO50R, apparently there’s always 5+ volts at the LED+ pad, its just a super low current that won’t turn on the LEDs. So my fancy new aux board wouldn’t light up until I disconnected the JFET and relegated it to being always-on. Bummer.
And then when I got it fully reassembled, I realized that I lost my moonlight mode. The flashlight thinks it’s on and in moonlight mode, but it doesn’t actually light up. It must have to do with where I tapped in to steal current for the aux board. The TO50R must be sensing/controlling current there. So hopefully I can remedy this aspect… I just need to take it all apart and find a new spot to steal battery voltage from. That’ll have to be another day.
Behold… the monstrosity of the TO50R driver. Triple stacked!
New aux board, fresh off the bench test
Selected placement of the aux+ connection (white wire)
Installed
First light
Behind the optic… thankfully, looks pretty good. At least I had one win for the night.
It’s a fun trek, but lots of stones on this path
UPDATE: Eureka! So, the TO50R driver must have been monitoring current where I had tapped into the ground. I found a true ground connection and now moonlight works again! Everything is working like it should and the blue aux LEDs look beautiful under the optic.
yes UV
no UV:
High CRI lights for sale
Thanks – that is an excellent comparison! I knew sometimes UV was used in such photos to show trits, but (and especially before owning any trits) didn’t really know how great the effect was, or how to tell in pictures.
Do you have a link for the GT Micro driver? I looked on aliexpress but couldn’t find them. It would be nice to get my 2 UT01 lights working properly without having to unscrew the tailcap all of the time.
Lumintop TiTool LED swap to sw45k
High CRI lights for sale
EC01
-4xXP-L HI V2 5D 4000K
-LEDIL ANGIE-M QUAD
flashlight
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/7k0p7okx8jrhhdf/AADm89lwzugshG7SfDd4rykSa?dl=0
FW1A pro w/ tir and o-ring switch mod
!
!
How’s the beam profile with the TIR vs the stock reflector? Where’d you source the TIR?
I found the tir in my spare parts bin, so I’m not exactly sure where I sourced it (it could’ve been kaidomain or fasttech). I had to use an o-ring to fill out the space as the tir was slightly loose without it. I also removed the led ring in the install and there is no problem unscrewing and screwing the bezel on and off, not twisting the MCPCB and wires. The beam is narrower. The outer circle of the beam is less green but there a yolk in the center. Overall, it looks better to me but I’m a sucker for tirs.
Awesome mod andrx! Definetely will copy this. Did you made your own spacer?
yes a piece of aluminium
flashlight
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/7k0p7okx8jrhhdf/AADm89lwzugshG7SfDd4rykSa?dl=0
Any beam shots with the TIR?
"America has three cities, New York, San Francisco and New Orleans. Everywhere else is Cleveland."- Tennessee Williams
Here you go, but the picture isn’t the best since it’s from my phone and I don’t take the best pictures.
I put 219b 4500k in Wuben E05 today. What can i say. I do not recommend! Beam is terrible, not equal and has lots of artifacts. In the picture it doesn’t look as bad as in reality.
kiriba-ru S2+ and S21a spacers are available in EU. PM me. A few details here
Thank you for the warning!
Noticed the same in the A6. Dedoming the LED did nothing about it. Samsung LH351D works well in the Wuben.
Edit: Cured the A6. 219B sw45k D200, honeycomb optics, led4power 3A driver and illuminated RC.
Smile, you cannot kill them all.
Tried to repair my Lumintop GT90.... and failed.. replaced the LED but now the Driver is smoke... (or something) The light turns on... and ramps up and down... (although still very bright in the lowest output) and it doesn't turn off anymore.
The Eneloop 2005-2022 info thread
Is your lanyard ring loose or firmly in place? Mine spins… and body is tightened down fully. I’m not sure if I have a different cut from an earlier batch, and if the thickness was increased later.
Thnx! It does not spin if I use a thin oring on the lanyard ring. And I bended the lanyard piece in a small angle, that might have helped also.
Relatively minor but it’s my favorite project and it’s finally finished. Added a bezel up clip and a made a flat button out of high temp silicone rubber. Now it’s exactly the way I want.
very nice
what clip and bezel did you use?
High CRI lights for sale
Clip is from a FW3A, you have to make the inner diameter a tiny bit bigger to fit.
Bezel is from a guy off of CPF – here’s the thread – http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?236304-FS-1-00-quot-O...
The one I bought was the second one pictured, short titanium crenelated. I really like the first one too. Emailed him and he still had stock left, at least when I reached out.
thank you for the link and stock check
I have bought a couple of his bezels
they are very nice
High CRI lights for sale
Yeah I was worried the last dates on that post were from 2018, and generally I feel like I missed the boat on all the Novatac/HDS stuff.
219b 3000k 9080
High CRI lights for sale
My C01S with honeycomb optics:
Yesterday, a SST-20@3500K arrived, implanted it today
Left to right: SST-20/3500, Nichia 219B sw45k, SST-20/2700
Somehow I can’t stand the 4000K SST-20 in the C01S, and not a fan of the original optics either. Dunno what’s wrong about that combination. All other LEDs make beautiful light.
Smile, you cannot kill them all.
very nice
which optics?
High CRI lights for sale
Someone posted a link to a shop. I forgot which one it was and can’t find the post nor the invoice
Sorry! I’ll mail you if I remember.
Smile, you cannot kill them all.
Ever have a mod not go quite according to plan? Yeah, I’m having one of those nights
I designed an aux board for the Wuben TO50R, which was my Peoples Choice Award prize in this year’s Old Lumens contest. The PCBs finally came in today. I built one up and it bench tested perfectly. Since I can’t reasonably reprogram the driver to control the aux board, I figured I’d use a JFET to turn the aux board off while the main LEDs are lit. Once voltage is detected at the gate pin of the JFET (wired to the main LED+), it would pinch off the ground connection of the aux board. Slick. And it worked great on the bench. Oh yeah, and it’s current controlled (3.0V LDO) and low voltage protected (a 2.93V reset monitor).
Well… when installed in the TO50R, apparently there’s always 5+ volts at the LED+ pad, its just a super low current that won’t turn on the LEDs. So my fancy new aux board wouldn’t light up until I disconnected the JFET and relegated it to being always-on. Bummer.
And then when I got it fully reassembled, I realized that I lost my moonlight mode. The flashlight thinks it’s on and in moonlight mode, but it doesn’t actually light up. It must have to do with where I tapped in to steal current for the aux board. The TO50R must be sensing/controlling current there. So hopefully I can remedy this aspect… I just need to take it all apart and find a new spot to steal battery voltage from. That’ll have to be another day.
Behold… the monstrosity of the TO50R driver. Triple stacked!
New aux board, fresh off the bench test
Selected placement of the aux+ connection (white wire)
Installed
First light
Behind the optic… thankfully, looks pretty good. At least I had one win for the night.
It’s a fun trek, but lots of stones on this path
UPDATE: Eureka! So, the TO50R driver must have been monitoring current where I had tapped into the ground. I found a true ground connection and now moonlight works again! Everything is working like it should and the blue aux LEDs look beautiful under the optic.
Simply, WOW.
djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".
"My man mousehole needs one too"
old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".
Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.
I like how they connect boards with pins.
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