grins projector, recoil and test light builds

Thanks and :beer:

Well I have worked my way through this puzzle and I think I have my head around it. Mostly :smiley:
Now I understand more what im going on about. I have struck to using spherical lens because they are off the shelf and to get around aberration problems Im using multiple lens. I think using an objective/primary lens with a focal length of at least twice the diameter reduces the aberration to near zero and gives you that clean crisp bright laser like beam.
The_Driver was absolutely correct a very short focal length precollimator/condensor/secondary lens should be as close to the led as possible. I think the best lens is square, diameter is equal to focal length. It has to big enough to allow some travel and still catch all the light from the led.

This is 5mm movement in the secondary lens and the beam looks thats bright.

If I shorten the focal length the beam quality drops dramatically. It is not just the focal length but I dont fully understand what is happening yet.


Oh my, :open_mouth: , Please don’t catch that tree on fire !

It actually lookes that bright and I can push the laser a bit more since I have tested the other one. I am fairly certain the phosphor would handle a 6w diode.

:heart_eyes:

I recommend you pick up one of these:
http://www.miniware.com.cn/product/mdp-xp-digital-power-supply-set/
If cost is a concern, you can just buy the bottom half. It is the bottom half that does the CC/CV control. The top just makes it easier to adjust settings and monitor. These modules are the top purchase of the year for me in terms of productivity boost. They are precise and very powerful for their size.

You need to focus on how many amps you will put into the diode. I assume the diode they are using is NUBM0A. The most powerful would be NUBM44v2 but that is very expensive.
I would aim for 3.8~4.0A into the diode for NUBM0A

Regarding the phosphor, it will actually drop in performance if you push it too hard. You can just use a lux meter while adjusting diode current to find the maximum output. You don’t need to have the output focused. As long as you keep your measurements consistent, a bare phosphor measurement is enough to find out your real life maximum.

In my experience with this type of phosphor (silicone binded YAG:Ce crystal powder) at around 3.5A with a spot size around 0.7 x 0.5mm (really hard to accurately estimate this), it will reach maximum performance. I dont have a W30 myself but I estimate this is the spot size they have. If the focus is any smaller, it will burn the phosphor even at around 1.2A

I was looking at one of those power supplies so I now wait for one. The W30 spot would be set by the small lens in front of the phosphor the other lens collimates and shapes the laser output. I have NUBM44 diodes, 16 are going in another little project. Thinking I might buy some phosphor crystals enderman linked somewhere.

Can you pass along a message to the new astronauts. Thanks mate :beer:

They told me to go away, their air conditioner was working overtime or something.

Is this showing the guts of a W30, or what is it? What is the purpose of the prism and side lens—is that for the output beam? is it off-center?

Thank you for sharing the picture.

How far apart does the small lens sit away from the phosphor?

I finally understand how acebeam can manage 500lumens. I couldn’t understand how 500 lumens was possible because I never knew about the additional lens!

What focal length do you think the small lens is using? I now really should test this.

Have you looked into the nichia nubm31t or nubm41? They are very easy to manage as their beams are so compact.

:laughing:

[quote=kennybobby]

Yes this is the light engine the laser is offset andhas a lens in front, a collimated beam is directed by the 2 prisms back onto the phosphor through the small lens. This small lens is a condensor lens. It sits about 2-3mm above the phosphor, the output has a 120° cone of light. This small lens makes it hard to calculated anything with the W30 engine because when you add an element none of these can be at their focal length because the lens as a whole wont focus. Im not exactly sure if this changes the laser size or it could be aspheric with a window in the centre for the laser to pass through unchanged.
This is a screen shot from an article on thorlabs website that explains most how I work out how far the condensor lens has to sit from the light source to catch all the light and direct it to the next element. Yes there are losses in each element but the overall result is a lot of visual gain. Without the small lens in the w30 it could not do what it does. This also explains why they used a double convex in this case an objective lens. The double convex just projects the image from the small condensor lens
If this is copyright I will delete it.

Just a little to add to this because we are using lens for lighting not imaging everything has to be slightly out of focus. The abberations do play a part but there are work arounds. Because they happen on the outside edges oversizing the condensor so the light only passes through centre is one way of reducing it.

86mm kaidomain reflectors for xhp35hi


Nice job on the cut outs grin.

That reflector array looks amazing!

I’m inspired by this thread! I’m looking at a big, vintage enlarging lens on eBay right now, might be rubbish for making a thrower, but I want to have a go anyway!

Thanks, it is good to see someone get something from my ramblings. I have found an article on light collection and collimation that can explain better than I. https://www.newport.com/t/light-collection-and-systems-throughput

The reflectors are a follow on from my OL competition light. I want to get the process of cutting and finishing the reflectors right before I start the big build. So for this one I made a simple jig to put in the metal cutoff bandsaw.

MRsDNF I was cleaning up at work and they told me to throw a pallet of these in the scrap bin I think they are cutters from a horizontal mill. They are brand new except for the bottom left which I got to make a flail or mace. Anyway before I set my lathe up to try it would they be any good to dress the reflectors? The bandsaw cut isnt perfectly straight.

I’d try and use a fine file or emery on a flat surface. I’ve seen some use an emery wheel on a grinder but dont have one of those. One day. I thought your cuts looked really neat. A lot better than I could have achieved.
I did mill some small reflectors like you have cut and holding them in a vice, even gently they tend to warp.
Saying all that your doing a terrific job. :beer:

The quad has been put on hold since I put the leds and boards on the gas burner and walked outside the boards and leds got burnt :person_facepalming:
So at the request of another BLFer I have been adapting the 150mm lens I made before and wasnt going to work on that light to a GT90.


Bummer. I was looking forward to that quad.

That pic of the GT’s is a little deceptive. Never owned a GT but I know what 150mm stormwater pipe looks like. That light is not small :smiling_imp: